wbranch wrote:
Swattie87 wrote;
"And I still think an 18" Smallie in big water (which I have hooked and caught) meets, or exceeds the reel testing capacity of a 20-22" wild Trout."
Believe me when I say that a 20" - 22" wild trout caught in a river with a flow of 800 - 1000 cfs is going to run more line, and backing, than any smallmouth on this planet. This isn't dissing smallies, I love them, but they just do not have the running traits of big wild trout.
I have caught a couple dozen 19" - 21" smallmouth in the Susky and while they fought great in terms of pulling (not running) and dogging by turning on their sides and being a bear to get into the boat I have never had a smallmouth run very much line and never , ever, even get close to getting into the backing.
I keep my drag set pretty lightly on my Lamsom Litespeed as I am mostly using 5X or 6X and I've had many 19" rainbows get into the backing in mere seconds. I've hooked 21" inch browns in "big water" that have put me into the backing 2 - 3 times with an initial run of all 90' of fly line and qnother 100' of backing.
Both of these browns put me into the backing in seconds and the bottom fish ran, from where he was hooked, about 200' and after retrieving all the backing and much of the fly line ran out again deep into the backing. So don't ever assume a large trout will not run hard and test the quality of your fly reel.
krayfish wrote:
+1 to WB. Big water trout typically smoke any smallie I've ever caught
+2 to WB & Kray above...agreed.
A big smallie fights like a ton of bricks, but really doesn't make long runs. A wild trout in a big river like the D or the big rivers out west (D bow, especially!!) is like tying on to a freight train.
Also, i'm usually tied on with 0x tippet (+/-) and a 7 or 8wt rod when fishing for smallies. When fishing for trout, I'm tied on with 5x tippet (+/-) with a 5wt rod. Big difference!
Also +1 to Jay. Buy decent - be happy with your equipment - save money
in the long run. (I've seen Jay's old stuff - it looks like it came from some hilljack flee market :-o)
I saw the light a long while back. The cheap reels I bought broke and/or I was never happy with their performance. After buying and rebuying, I finally decided to get some decent ones.
That was over 20 years ago. Ya know, most have performed flawlessly, and I still fish with many of those reels today, and have caught thousands of fish with them; while the junk sits in my basement. If they do break, I can send them back for repair for a small fee or for free. A bargain in the long run.
Here's my checklist for a decent reel:
Machined Aluminum (cast reels are brittle plus machined = more precison)
Metal gears / parts (plastic warps and/breaks at the very time you need it)
Sealed drag (water seepage into the drag will cause your reel to seize up. Also saltwater seepage will make your reel toast with just one dunking.)
Weight (should balance on you rod - not tip or butt heavy)
Capacity (Reel should hold a decent amount of backing for the type of fishing you do)
Large Arbor (faster retrieve / less line curl)
Warranty (Long or lifetime warranty from a reputable company with parts and service available in the long term)