Winter Rod Builds

[JimNovo]

I'm thinking of building a general purpose salt water rod this winter. Looking at 9ft 8wt blanks.

I'm just looking for feedback on what I should look for in a blank (is 8wt correct?) and are there any tips on components that I should know of (heavier guides?) as I approach this build.

Thanks in advance.

 

[afishinado]

I'm thinking of building a general purpose salt water rod this winter. Looking at 9ft 8wt blanks.

I'm just looking for feedback on what I should look for in a blank (is 8wt correct?) and are there any tips on components that I should know of (heavier guides?) as I approach this build.

Thanks in advance.

What type of SW fishing are looking to do?

 

[JimNovo]

Nothing like tarpon fishing or anything out on the flats. More like sound side in NJ of NC or surf maybe.

 

[afishinado]

An 8wt is on the light side of SW rods. If it were me, I would look to build a 9 or 10wt fast action rod with an oversized tiptop and guides, full wells cork grip and a fighting butt with a heavy duty double locking reel seat and a graphite insert (stay away from wood).

 

[JimNovo]

Thanks.

 

[czechmate18]

I would say 9wt is more general purpose. Make sure you get saltwater safe guides and inserts.

 

[Striperbobby]

Depends what you are fishing for. I fish the salt bay or sound a lot in ocmd, nj, and outerbanks. If I’m catch schoolie stripers, trout, flounder, ****tail blues, or slot reds I will use a 9 foot 6,7, or 8 weight. If I’m going after cow stripers, bull reds, or gator blues I use a 8, 9, or 10wt.

If you are throwing size #2 to 2/0 streamers I think an 8wt would be your best option. It will still bend pretty good on smaller fish and be able to handle the occasional big fish.

 

[6xAdams(Jones)]

I built a 9' 8wt for a coworker from an OEM blank/kit from Hook & Hackle. He wanted a low-cost option to use in the brackish creeks along and on the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay. His 8'6" 5wt wasn't as effective as he wanted when he was fishing from a kayak. He was used to rinsing everything off after each use, so he wasn't concerned too much about saltwater corrosion. He really likes the rod and has gotten into some better fish with it (rockfish, catfish, drum, perch), but he found that to make longer casts, he is better off hopping out of the boat when there is shallow water to stand in.
Ron at hookhack.com may have some additional recommendations. He responds right away to emails and phone calls.

 

[PennKev]

An 8wt is on the light side of SW rods. If it were me, I would look to build a 9 or 10wt fast action rod with an oversized tiptop and guides, full wells cork grip and a fighting butt with a heavy duty double locking reel seat and a graphite insert (stay away from wood).

I would stay way from insert style seats altogether on heavier rods, wood, carbon or otherwise. I don't think they are appropriate for heavier rods, salt water, and larger reels. Stick with one piece machined barrel seats.

I do agree with double locking rings. I wish some of my lighter rods had them actually.

 

[PennKev]

I'm thinking of building a general purpose salt water rod this winter. Looking at 9ft 8wt blanks.

I'm just looking for feedback on what I should look for in a blank (is 8wt correct?) and are there any tips on components that I should know of (heavier guides?) as I approach this build.

Thanks in advance.

Pay attention to the blanks physical weight and don't cheap out. Budget blanks tend to be dogs in heavy line weights. You can get fantastic short, light line, trout rod blanks for a dime a dozen, but 7wt and above is a different animal.

 

[gulfgreyhound]

Mud Hole for rod components ,imo. GG

 

[Solitariolupo]

I got a 10wt hook and and hackle kit for Muskie that would be good. NFC has some nice ones that would be great but be ready to wait like 3months for it.

 

[Fredrick]

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