Wanderin' Through SW Wisconsin

I will keep the names of most streams hidden. With a little digging, you'll be able to figure them out if you so choose.

June 17
On June 17th at about 5:20 am, I hit the road and drove to Wisconsin for a solo fishing trip. I arrived near Dodgeville, Wi, which is in Iowa County, at about 6:00 pm. Shortly after my arrival at Governor Dodge State Park, tornado warnings were issued, and we all sheltered in and around the bathroom facilities. The storms got vicious, and while we didn't experience any direct tornadoes where I was, this would shape my next couple days of fishing. After the heavy rains and winds subsided, I setup my tent, referenced some maps, and took a drive around the Iowa County country side. Iowa County is gorgeous. It is some of the most well-kept farmland I've ever seen. I also found many numerous spring creeks. The problem, however, was that they were all muddy brown from the storms. I returned to my campsite, ate some dinner, and turned in for the night, excited and ready to begin fishing in earnest the next day.

June 18
I awoke early, ate some food, referenced some maps, and immediately headed for some nearby trout waters. Wisconsin streams and geology is vastly different than that here in PA. The majority of the stream bottoms I encountered were sand and muck. While I didn't love that aspect of Wisconsin, what I did love was their stream access laws. They have pamphlets detailing what exactly a "navigable waterway" is, and basically if it has a defined stream channel, it's navigable. This equates to a wet feet law that allows you to access and fish pretty much everything, even the smallest trickles, without worry of trespassing. Furthermore, you can access streams at any public bridge crossing as long as you can safely pull off the road. Add on the tons of easements and public parking lots built for anglers, and you have a wealth of spring creeks and access - TAKE SOME NOTES, PA. SPEND YOUR DOLLARS HERE! I drove around for a bit trying to find clear water and decent access points, and I struggled. Eventually I found an easement for a small stream that was relatively clear, and I ventured down into the meadow to try my luck. This stream was Harker Creek. Harker Creek is a small, and I mean small in the headwaters, spring creek that harbors brook trout and brown trout. Read the signs posted below. In Wisconsin, many streams have special regs, and if a stream does, the regs will be posted right at the access points. Notice the special protections on Harker. Brook trout must be released; brown trout may be harvested. ONCE AGAIN, TAKE NOTE, PA!

I didn't fish Harker Creek long. It was muddied up pretty good, even its headwaters, and so narrow and grassy that I had a hard time landing casts in the actual stream, which was, on average, probably 3 feet across. Basically, the rest of this day was spent driving around Iowa County, soaking in the scenery, and trying to find access points to streams that weren't muddy. Almost this entire day was a bust. Everything was muddy. I had low confidence in fishing, and we all know confidence is key.

After fishing many different streams all day and driving around the county, after dinner, I was bound to get back out there. I checked out Otter Creek, which looked gorgeous and was a fair-sized stream, but was flowing so, so muddy. I eventually found my way back to Harker Creek, below the confluence of Martin Creek, which is another tiny spring creek, and finally found a great time. I noticed Harker was clearing. It still had stain, but it was clear enough now that I felt I could catch some fish. I walked way downstream through this meadow, and what ensued was my first magical evening in Wisconsin. Here, Harker was maybe 10-15 feet wide in places, and in others it was only maybe 2-3 feet wide. This stream had a tremendous volume of water, too. It would regularly be over my waist, and often could top my chest waders! I hooked some beautiful, impressive browns, but I lost everyone of them before I could land them. I landed 4 brook trout. I was hooking fish. The stream was cold. The landscape was beautiful and bucolic. I understood Wisconsin's charm; I saw its trout fishing potential.

I really liked this stream, and the next time I am in SW Wisconsin, I am 100% without a doubt fishing this stream again. I returned to Gov Dodge, ate dinner, and went to sleep.

June 19
The next day, I arose, ate breakfast, and packed up my camp. My two nights at Gov Dodge came to an end, and I had to mosey and fish all day long towards my next destination, Vernon County, Wi. I passed through the town of Boaz in Richland County. I pulled off at every bridge and evaluated the streams. I fished many streams, and I caught nothing. Every stream I fished the entire trip was a Class 1 trout stream, which is similar to our Class A list. The streams are very mucky and sandy, and their characteristics are vastly different. There aren't many trees, and there aren't many rocks. One stream, Mill Creek, I fished in several places. This stream has a reputation for holding big trout. In the town of Boaz, it was so mucky I felt I couldn't wade it. Further upstream, I found gorgeous water, but I couldn't move a fish. I even chatted with a gentleman who said he moved there to Richland County 30 years ago for the fishing. He loves Mill Creek, and he said he catches many big browns on large Rapalas and other plugs. He was nice enough to talk to to, but I soon noticed the theme that every fish he caught of every species seemed to be nearly as big as his arms could stretch After a brief chat and after having fished maybe 5 streams on the drive, I found myself in Vernon County, and I setup my tent at Sidie Hollow County Park. Thanks for the campsite recommendation, @CinnamonJoe!

I can't remember what all streams I fished that day, but I found good fishing on one of the nearby Class 1 streams. The water was gin-clear, and the fish were spooky, but I managed to get them to eat some dries. The Elk Hair Caddis was the best dry I fished all trip.

The report will continue in a separate post. I've reached my photo upload limit.

 

Why would grass be preferred and wouldn't that be a major issue for stream temps? Here we freak out if stream banks are cut back.

Fishing grassy streams is a pain in the ***, too. Give me trees any day.

 

This is a very good write up. Thanks for posting. A lot of good information here if you’re ever planning a trip.?
I’ve always wanted to go there, but just haven’t done it.

 

Fishing grassy streams is a pain in the ***, too. Give me trees any day.

😉

Joe

 

Dear troutbert,

Here ya go! https://www.wisconservation.org/the-driftless-region/

More on the native grasses.



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Native Grasses of the Wisconsin Driftless Region​

The Driftless Area of Wisconsin — a hilly, limestone-rich region that escaped glacial drift — once supported vast oak savannas and prairies. Today, many native grasses persist in remnants, and restoration projects focus on reintroducing them to rebuild biodiversity Natural Resources Foundation of Wisconsin+1.

Common Native Grasses in the Driftless​

Warm-season grasses (established in summer, adapted to the region’s climate and soils):

• Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) – Tough, adaptable, found on slopes and open fields Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• Side-oats Grama (Bouteloua speciosa) – Vigorous root system, common in southern Wisconsin prairies Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• Purple Lovegrass (Eragrostis lehmanniana) – Burgundy-purple midsummer flowers, drought-tolerant Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• American Beachgrass (Ammophila breviligulata) – Uncommon, sandy-soil specialist with attractive flowers Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• Prairie Cordgrass (Spartina pectinata) – Tall, wetland colonizer, up to 9 ft Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• Fowl Manna Grass (Glyceria maxima) – Cool-season but widespread in Wisconsin Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.

Cool-season grasses (established in spring, often in wetter or shaded areas):

• Marsh Bluegrass (Poa maritima) – Wetland native, tolerant of saturated soils Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• Eastern Star Sedge (Cyperus americanus) – Clump-forming, found in many Midwest habitats Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• Pennsylvania Sedge (Carex pensylvanica) – Shady, moist sites Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• Gray’s (Morning Star) Sedge (Carex grisea) – Arching leaves, tight clumps Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• Bristly Sedge (Carex bristly) – Dense clumps in marshes and bogs Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.
• Common Hop Sedge (Carex hederacea) – Tall, showy wetland sedge Johnson's Nursery Knowledgebase.

Ecological Role in the Driftless​

These grasses were historically part of the region’s oak savanna and prairie communities, shaped by lightning fires and Indigenous burning practices driftlessalmanac.org. They provide:

• Habitat and food for pollinators, birds, and insects (e.g., oaks support >500 caterpillar species) driftlessalmanac.org.
• Soil stabilization on steep slopes and bluffs Natural Resources Foundation of Wisconsin.
• Biodiversity corridors when paired with oaks, willows, and milkweeds driftlessalmanac.org.

Restoration Tips​

• Start with pioneers: Canada wild rye, black-eyed Susan, wild bergamot to hold ground driftlessalmanac.org.
• Add keystone grasses: Little bluestem, side-oats grama, purple lovegrass for structure and wildlife value driftlessalmanac.org.
• Remove invasives first (buckthorn, honeysuckle, garlic mustard) driftlessalmanac.org.
• Manage with disturbance: Prescribed fire or mowing to mimic natural cycles driftlessalmanac.org.

Regards,

Tim Murphy 🙂

Reed canary was the favorite in pee-ay. How could we have been so dumb?

 

Reed canary was the favorite in pee-ay. How could we have been so dumb?

I asked Google if reed canary grass is common in Wisconsin's Driftless Area, and this was the response:

AI Overview

Reed canary grass (Phalaris arundinacea) is extremely common and pervasive throughout Wisconsin's Driftless Area. As one of the state's most aggressive invasive species, it forms dense, impenetrable monocultures in wetlands, stream banks, wet meadows, and moist agricultural areas, choking out native plants and reducing habitat diversity. [1, 2, 3]

Because the Driftless Area features extensive river valleys, spring-fed streams, and agricultural runoff that fuels the grass's growth, infestations are particularly widespread. Land managers and ecologists consider it a major threat to the ecological integrity of the region's unique spring-fed wetlands. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

 

When I fished there in the 1990s, there was a lot of tall grass (5 to 6 feet high) growing in almost pure monoculture stands along the streams.

At the time I didn't know what reed canary grass was, but I suspect that's what it was.

 

I remember it being touted on stream restoration projects in the Lancaster County area in the 90’s. It is amazing how our views and practices have changed. Pessimistically, the damage has been done and it seems overwhelming to turn back the tide of invasives and not just along streams. I have been helping with the Monarch Waystation in Hershey. Porcelain Berry followed by Oriental Bittersweet are the worst.

 

When I fished there in the 1990s, there was a lot of tall grass (5 to 6 feet high) growing in almost pure monoculture stands along the streams.

At the time I didn't know what reed canary grass was, but I suspect that's what it was.

I didn't know what reed canary grass was until this thread. After looking it up, I still think that was the predominant grass along the streams. Getting your fly tangled in the heads of the grass is frustrating, too. It's crazy how well that grass hangs onto your tippet.

 

Just a couple random things:

1) For anybody planning a budget trip out to the WI Driftless, quite a few of the small towns in the area offer camping at their municipal park. All have tent spaces and some have electrical hookups. Modern restrooms and sometimes showers as well. Fees are nominal. I was paying 5-8 bucks a night for a tent space in the early 20-teens. It's probably 15-25 bucks a night now. Still a bargain. Some of the towns that offer this option include: Viola (my favorite), Richland Center, Viroqua, Soldiers Grove, Readstown, Gays Mills, Wauzeka (fairly close to Big Green River and other Grant County streams). You usually just go to the town office and register and a local convenience store usually handles the payment stuff. This is a good way to cut lodging expenses by 2/3 or more and still be positioned almost on top of some of the best fishing.

I wish you and I had known this when you were out in 2001, Dwight. We could have saved some money.

2) I wouldn't know native grasses from Flatt & Scruggs Bluegrass from Astroturf, but the one type of flora I recall being an issue when I was out there was that nasty wild parsnip, the stuff that can delivers chemical burns if you brush against it on a sunny day. It was everywhere for a few years, but WI-DNR knocked it down pretty well. I got zapped a half dozen times anyway. Painful and causes a near permanent dark brown skin staining at the point of contact.

That's all.. Carry on.

 

Great trip report! I grew up in WI, graduated from UW-Madison and get back yearly to visit family in Madison and Milwaukee.
Those driftless streams offer a true challenge in the summer with how much vegetation you have to tangle with on every cast.

For anyone looking to make a trip out to WI - the DNR has a really great GIS map that not only includes stream data but all the public access along with parking marked. You can find that here: https://dnr.wisconsin.gov/topic/fishing/outreach/wifishingfinder

If camping isn't your bag you can use Madison as a decent base to access the driftless. It's a little more driving but Madison in the summer is really hard to beat. Also just head to the Memorial Union Terrace on a nice summer afternoon/night. One of the great public spaces in the entire the nation.