Backcountry fishing in Yellowstone National Park | Montana Angler

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By Brian McGeehan at Montana Angler Fly Fishing

No fly-fishing trip to Montana is complete without a visit to Yellowstone National Park. The world’s first national park, established by an act of the U.S. Congress in 1872, is as iconic for its wild trout populations as it is for its geysers, bison and grizzly bears. Anglers visiting Yellowstone have a broad variety of waters to fish, with backcountry outings offering some of the most exceptional fishing in the park.

The Yellowstone backcountry encompasses an incredible diversity of fishing opportunities within its 3,468 square miles, including alpine lakes, spring creeks, broad rivers and tumbling streams. The Yellowstone River alone provides countless angling opportunities as it flows from its headwaters in the Thorofare region to Yellowstone Lake, the largest freshwater lake above 7,000 feet in North America. It then plunges over a pair of massive waterfalls on its way through two distinct canyons before exiting the park near its confluence with the Gardner River.

For all of Yellowstone’s diversity, the truth is most anglers never venture more than a few hundred yards from the most popular access points and pullouts. For anglers seeking solitude and an escape from the crowds, hitting the trails to experience fly fishing in Yellowstone’s backcountry is well worth the effort.

First things first, Yellowstone National Park is managed by the National Park Service and has its own set of rules, regulations and requirements separate from the surrounding states of Montana, Wyoming and Idaho. To fish in Yellowstone, you’ll need to procure a Yellowstone Park fishing license and abide by all park fishing regulations.

Yellowstone is home to two species of native cutthroat trout — the Yellowstone cutthroat trout and the westslope cutthroat trout. Yellowstone cutthroat trout and westslope cutthroat trout are widely distributed in waters throughout the park. A third cutthroat, the Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat trout, is considered a subspecies of the Yellowstone cutthroat trout and is covered with hundreds of small spots over the entirety of its body. Snake River fine-spotted cutthroat trout are found in the Snake River drainage which flows south toward Grand Teton National Park.

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Yellowstone National Park is a reservoir for native Snake River fine-spotted and Yellowstone cutthroat trout

In addition, park waters host the native Arctic grayling as well as populations of non-native rainbow, brown, brook and lake trout. Be aware that park policies may require you to keep some of these non-native species caught in certain waters. Lake trout have been a particular concern in recent years after establishing themselves in Yellowstone Lake where they prey on native cutthroat populations. Efforts to remove lake trout from Yellowstone Lake have begun to bear fruit in recent years and cutthroat populations are on the rebound. If you are required to keep a fish in Yellowstone, consider it an act of conservation.

Many of Yellowstone’s backcountry fishing experiences can be had in a day, or even a few hours. A short hike over the first ridgeline or around the next bend in the road is often all it takes to find a degree of solitude and rising trout. Other fisheries in the park require time and effort to reach. If you are going to spend the night, a backcountry camping permit is required.

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Some of the more remote areas of Yellowstone National Park require a multi-day backpacking trip. There are also some great options to hike for the day. Even spending 30 minutes on the trail or simply cross country can result in a quite experience away from the roads.


Some of the more remote areas of Yellowstone National Park require a multi-day backpacking trip. There are also some great options to hike for the day. Even spending 30 minutes on the trail or simply cross country can result in a quite experience away from the roads.

When camping in the backcountry, be aware that Yellowstone in home to the densest concentration of grizzly bears in the Lower 48. Bear spray and proper food storage are requisite.

A standard 5- or 6-weight fly rod and reel are ideal for most backcountry fishing in Yellowstone. Four-piece rods make great sense for anglers packing into remote locations. A backpack with the rest of your fishing gear, a rain jacket and food and water are all the rest needed for a day in the backcountry.

Yellowstone’s remote trout are rarely picky and the native cutthroat trout are fondly regarded for their willingness to rise to dry flies, but that doesn’t mean fish won’t be discerning on some waters. Patterns like the Parachute Adams, Stimulator and Elk Hair Caddis should be present in every angler’s fly box and will take fish throughout the season. On popular backcountry waters such as Slough Creek expect to tippet down and change flies to draw strikes.

Also be prepared for seasonal hatches that can produce exceptional fishing. Pale Morning Duns and Baetis mayflies hatch early on the Firehole River and its tributaries. Golden stoneflies and Salmonflies hatch on waters in the park in June and July. When green and gray drakes make an appearance, trout rise with vigor. Check in at the Montana Angler fly shop on Main Street in Bozeman for the latest on what’s hatching and the best patterns for your trip.

Yellowstone backcountry angling can be broken up into sections delineated by the park’s fishing regulations. Consider the following descriptions a starting point from which to embark on your own Yellowstone backcountry fly-fishing adventure.

The Northeast Region of the park includes the Lamar River and the excellent Cache Creek, Soda Butte Creek and its main tributary Pebble Creek, and Slough Creek which flows through a series of meadows north to the park boundary. The Northeast Region includes both the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the Black Canyon of the Yellowstone. Trailheads accessible from Canyon Village and the Tower-Roosevelt area provide access into the depth of both canyons where cutthroat trout fishing is exceptional. The Northeast Region also includes the notable Trout and McBride lakes, which hold native Yellowstone cutthroat trout.

Anglers geared up for a multi-day fishing adventure descend a remote river deep in Yellowstone's backcountry. When backpacking make sure to reserve campsites in advance through the YNP backcountry permit office.

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Anglers geared up for a multi-day fishing adventure descend a remote river deep in Yellowstone's backcountry. When backpacking make sure to reserve campsites in advance through the YNP backcountry permit office.


The Southeast Region of the park encompasses Yellowstone Lake and the Thorofare where the Yellowstone River rises east of Two Ocean Plateau. There’s no easy way to get to the Thorofare. The options to explore Yellowstone’s headwaters are backpacking in via the Continental Divide Trail from East Entrance Road or from the Heart Lake Trailhead on U.S. Highway 191. Anglers may also arrange a backcountry shuttle for boat access to remote locations on Yellowstone Lake. Numerous tributary streams flowing into the lake are highly regarded fisheries for trophy cutthroat trout.

The Southwest Region of the park includes the Snake River and Bechler River drainages and the trifecta of Heart, Lewis and Shoshone lakes. Lake trout are present in all three lakes and are best targeted by anglers using a watercraft. The Heart Lake Trailhead provides access trails to the three lakes and the Snake River. Anglers eager to explore the waters of the Bechler River and its tributaries, the Fall River and Boundary Creek, can access the area from Cave Falls Road or the Bechler Ranger Station along the park’s Idaho border. This section of Yellowstone is known as “Cascade Corner” for the high density of waterfalls in the area which add to the angling experience.

The Northwest Region of the park is a highly active thermal area and features the Firehole, Gallatin, Gibbon, Gardner and Madison rivers. Access to the Firehole River in Firehole Canyon can be achieved from Firehole Canyon Road. The upper reaches of the Gibbon River are productive brown trout water and can be reached from the Grand Loop Road near Norris. On the western boundary of the park, the Gallatin River’s headwaters can be reached from U.S. Highway 191. Excellent fishing for rainbow and brown trout can be had in the meadows where the river turns away from the highway.

The Firehole is one of the world's most unique fisheries. Although much of the river is easily accessed from roads, there are some reaches that require a short hike which often results in seeing significantly less angling pressure. Just make sure to avoid bison and other critters!

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The Firehole is one of the world's most unique fisheries. Although much of the river is easily accessed from roads, there are some reaches that require a short hike which often results in seeing significantly less angling pressure. Just make sure to avoid bison and other critters!

As with any backcountry fly fishing, Yellowstone backcountry anglers should carefully consider where, how and with whom they share information regarding specifics. Much of the best fishing in Yellowstone National Park can be found in the backcountry, and there’s a reason it remains so exceptional. Enjoy your time in the backcountry and consider holding what you learn there close so that it may be enjoyed by future generations.

Brian McGeehan is a Pennsylvania native and has been guiding Western rivers in Montana, Wyoming and Colorado for 20 seasons. He is a licensed Montana outfitter and owner of Montana Angler Fly Fishing based in Bozeman, MT.
 
"I think that I could still make that 5 mile hike into the canyon. I’m not so sure whether I could make the 5 miles to get back out."

Me too! I can get down most trails but I'd need a mule or a helicopter to get me out.







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Thanks @wbranch reminded me of my hike into Pelican in 1976 with my father. I was 14 and this experience hooked me on flyfishing for the rest of my life. I recall handing my flyrod to my dad who had never cast a fly. He cast and had the fly land in the middle of about 3 coils of fly line. Before he could pick it up, Wham taken by a cuttie.

Sadly Pelican is a victim of both Whirling Disease and the Lake Trout plague.

Is that why Pelican is closed?
 
"I think that I could still make that 5 mile hike into the canyon. I’m not so sure whether I could make the 5 miles to get back out."

Me too! I can get down most trails but I'd need a mule or a helicopter to get me out.







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Several years ago, some idiot tried to go down into the canyon by rope, in the winter when it was closed, and he had to be rescued - not by a mule or helicopter, but by a rescue team of individuals who put their own lives in danger to get him out. Personally, I wouldn’t blame them if they’d have left him there.

 
I fished Slough Creek a few years ago back by the last campsite a mile or so down a dirt road. I didn't have bear spray so I didn't venture too far. Had a bison cross the creek about 30 yds from me. When I bought my license at the ranger station I asked about bears there and he said don't worry about it. Then proceeded to tell me about one.
 
Back when I was going to Montana & YNP for three months I'm not sure bear spray had been invented yet. You were on your own, basically taking a chance whenever you ventured off a paved road. One time I was fishing a channel of the Yellowstone River and there were people in the distance waving at me. At least that is what I thought. Only when I finally realized they were trying to get my attention to turn around. 100' behind me on an island was a big bear. I didn't look at it long enough to discern if it was a grizzly or a black bear. I waded out of that channel as fast as I could.
 
I had a number of bear encounters in and around Yellowstone over the years, none of which were particularly threatening, although they had the potential to be. I can also recall a number of people, several from PA, that did have serious encounters with bears, some of which were in the exact places that I routinely hiked or fished. All that I can say is be careful if you go to Yellowstone, and stay safe.

Here’s one. A friend and I were driving past Norris Junction one morning on our way to fish someplace, possibly the Yellowstone River in Hayden Valley. As we passed by the campground, there were 2 grizzlies in the field across the road from the campground. I stopped so we could look at them, and we got out of the my truck for a better view. As they got ever closer to us, I told my friend we better get back inside. We did, but he kept his passenger side window down. At a distance of about 20’ I handed him my camera and he took this picture of one of the two bears.

I heard in the news that these bears got into the campground that night, chewed on someone’s tent and camp stove, and were subsequently captured by Park Rangers and removed from the park.

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While fishing some beaver ponds in the West Yellowstone area with a guide I accidently stepped into a dead elk carcass up to my crotch. My fear was that a bear had concealed it for later munching and crunching. This was before the return of he wolves. I was terrified that I was going to attract every bear in Wyoming and Montana. At the end of the day my waders were soiled inside and out. BTW the brookies were worth the risk.
 
Besides bears, moose are worrisome. Somewhere I read falling trees were the biggest killer, post-fire don't you see. While fishing, we could always drown, and wildfires are occasionally a concern. And in Yellowstone Park you can fall into a pool and be boiled to death. We fly fishermen love to live on the edge! When going out with a group, just make sure you're not the slowest runner.

I've always dreamt of exploring the northeast part of the park, Lamar River, Soda Butte Creek, Slough Creek, but have only passed through this spectacularly beautiful area. Then there's the Thorofare region, one of the remotest places in the Continental U.S. I don't know anything about fishing the Yellowstone River there but it sure sounds interesting. Ah, to be young again. And someday I'd like to fish the Gibbon, perhaps an easier goal.

In the Park, I've fished the Madison and the Firehole, the latter of which was breathtaking at sunset. I was thinking about bears while fishing Duck Creek alone one day. Mostly, my fishing in those parts has been outside the Park, the Madison, Hebgen Lake, the Gallatin, the Box Canyon. To me, that whole region is heaven on earth. And if you get tired of it you can head south to the South Branch of the Snake. I haven't been there in quite a number of years, come to think about it, and have been hearing the terrible tales of growth.

My wife and I are thinking about getting a travel trailer, and I'm wondering how well that will work from a fishing standpoint. Our rig, 45 feet, will be too long for most campgrounds in Yellowstone Park so we'd be setting up outside the Park. The fantasy is to camp alongside a trout stream so I'm not straying too far from the wife and dog. I was reading the North Fork of the Shoshone River was fishable and there might be camping around there.
 
Peter Ross, I camped a few nights in one of the national forest campgrounds along Clark Fork outside of Cooke City. It was about an hour drive to get to Slough Creek and Lamar Valley. Those campgrounds would be fine to park a long trailer, getting a trailer there is no joke though if you come from Cody. Clark Fork of the Yellowstone had lots of brookies and stocked rainbows by the campground. The fishing was much better in the park.
 
Sounds like maybe it's better to stay on I-90 toward Cooke City then drop down. We're planning for fall 2025, so there's time to research. The easy choice is the Grizzly campground at West Yellowstone but we'd like to get off the path a bit and don't need all those amenities.
 
If you go the Cooke City Route come prepared with all the gear and groceries you need. There is a few restaurants in town, but very limited supplies otherwise.
 
Roger that. Some of those areas are very remote. When I was 10, I camped there in a tent with my mom and her boyfriend. A bear came into our camp in the middle of the night. Her boyfriend got up and banged some pans together. The bear moved off, and we spent the rest of the night in the car. In the morning, they were bear prints all over the car (from before we got in the car). Apparently, the bear smelled a pie that was in the trunk of the car. Just like Yogi! He did not want to restrict himself to nuts and berries like the other bears. It was probably 1966.
 
Roger that. Some of those areas are very remote. When I was 10, I camped there in a tent with my mom and her boyfriend. A bear came into our camp in the middle of the night. Her boyfriend got up and banged some pans together. The bear moved off, and we spent the rest of the night in the car. In the morning, they were bear prints all over the car (from before we got in the car). Apparently, the bear smelled a pie that was in the trunk of the car. Just like Yogi! He did not want to restrict himself to nuts and berries like the other bears. It was probably 1966.

I believe I previously posted here about this bear attack that happened in that area a few years back. But in case you hadn’t seen it before:



Deb Freele, one of the persons who was attacked in her tent that night was a fly fisherman who was there on a fishing trip with her husband. At the time of the attack she was a frequent participant in another fly fishing forum that I’m a member of, Fly Anglers Online (FAOL).

I remember her posts on that website that she made after the attack, and I thought at the time that she handled the whole episode very well, at least what she said in her posts there. One was a photoshopped picture of a grizzly, supposedly showing the bear wearing her FAOL hat.

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I have camped in and outside of Yellowstone Park many times over the years, in a variety of ways, from tents, tent campers, travel trailers, to truck campers. Everything considered, a relatively small self contained travel trailer would be my #1 choice for doing that these days.
 
Really good to hear from someone with your experience. We already have a pick up (F-350 crew cab DRW) for pulling cars and did not want another motorized vehicle to maintain. And we want to bring the dog along, so we are not boarding her.
 
Really good to hear from someone with your experience. We already have a pick up (F-350 crew cab DRW) for pulling cars and did not want another motorized vehicle to maintain. And we want to bring the dog along, so we are not boarding her.
I had an F-450 dually that I used to trailer my Jeep to and from Montana, but after a couple years I got an F-350 dually that I kept in Montana year round. After owning that truck for several years I bought a 10-2 Northern Lite truck camper that I used for periodic fishing trips there.

Northern Lite makes a great truck camper, but getting it on and off the truck takes some time and patience, and driving a dually with or without the camper on it isn’t the most convenient combo. If I had to retrace my steps now I’d probably get a 1 ton truck, such as an F-250, or perhaps even an F-150, and a small trailer, like an Oliver II. (Of course an F-350 could tow any sized travel trailer too. 😊)

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Nice rig! A camper like yours is a great solution. I seriously considered a camper and was impressed with the Lance 975, but She Who Must Be Obeyed thought it would be too cramped on long days when I’m off fishing. She wants a dry bathroom and a north-south bed. And we’re going to have an English mastiff with us that needs a two-lane road to make a U-turn. I have the same generation truck in gray. Love that thing! It has completed many cross-country tows. Had an F-250 before and really like the stability of the dual rears on the F-350, whether it’s rain in Utah or cross winds in Kansas. It’s necessary for our 40-foot gooseneck but I prefer it for our 20-foot trailer. Overkill is a good thing late at night and I find I’m less tired when I arrive.
 
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