Leader formulas, how to design my own.

A hand twisted leader would be great for this in mono or flouro.

Start with 3 arm spans of leader material, like 6 lb stren.

Double it end to end and twist one direction.
Then double one third over one third and twist the other direction. Knot where the overlap ends.

That will leave you with a leader that is roughly one arm span .
You can use a tippet ring .
 
You can message me and I will send you one , so you get the idea
 
I followed formulas for about the first day or two I started tying my own leaders. I found myself immediately lengthening or shortening sections of my leader, on the water, to achieve what I wanted. Now I just eyeball it. Most of my leaders are 20lb maxima>15lb Maxima >1x mono> 2x mono> 3x mono> 4x Fluoro> etc.... each section is approximately 18"
 
I honestly think you’re overthinking it for blue lining brookies. If you’re fishing a 6’ 6” rod trying to design a 3 part (butt, mid, tippet) leader with multiple size material per section, you’re going to drive yourself into the nut bin.

4’ furled leader, 3’ of your desired tippet material (based on fishing dries - 6X, wets - 5X, nymphs - 4X, or streamers - 3X) - done!!

Or if you want to really keep it simple just use 4X or 5X tippet for everything, because you really don’t need 3X tippet to land a blue line native brookie on a streamer! You’ll be spending a lot more time fishing and catching fish than screwing around with your leader. Tight lines!!

100 percent! I fished for brookies yesterday with my 6' 6" Eagle Claw glass rod and had a furled leader finished with 5X on all day. I switched between a dry/dropper setup and small streamer. The streamer worked fine on 5X and I was even able to pull some fish out from plunge pools. With brookies you're dealing with what are usually 4-10" fish, so you can get away with a very basic setup.

IMG 3520


IMG 3591
 
All this discussion raises a question I have about furled leaders. Do they work for dry flies, or are they strictly for below-surface work? Years ago, I read about how one could make them using a jig, which routed mono through a network of screw eyes, and then twisting the line with a power drill. Some comments were about how the twisted line would get waterlogged and drag too much for a good pickup.
 
All this discussion raises a question I have about furled leaders. Do they work for dry flies, or are they strictly for below-surface work? Years ago, I read about how one could make them using a jig, which routed mono through a network of screw eyes, and then twisting the line with a power drill. Some comments were about how the twisted line would get waterlogged and drag too much for a good pickup.

Furled leaders actually excel at tossing dry flies. To me, that is where they really shine. I’m not a fan of using them for sub-surface work due to their thickness. But man, do they lay out a dry fly nicely!
 
All this discussion raises a question I have about furled leaders. Do they work for dry flies, or are they strictly for below-surface work? Years ago, I read about how one could make them using a jig, which routed mono through a network of screw eyes, and then twisting the line with a power drill. Some comments were about how the twisted line would get waterlogged and drag too much for a good pickup.
I landed my nicest fish on tenkara using a dry with furled line. Sometimes it'll waterlog and start to sink, but I just give some aggressive false casts to shed the water and apply flotant
 
Furled leaders actually excel at tossing dry flies. To me, that is where they really shine. I’m not a fan of using them for sub-surface work due to their thickness. But man, do they lay out a dry fly nicely!
agreed. especially small dries. the transfer of energy from line to fly seems the more noticeable the smaller the fly gets.
 
All this discussion raises a question I have about furled leaders. Do they work for dry flies, or are they strictly for below-surface work? Years ago, I read about how one could make them using a jig, which routed mono through a network of screw eyes, and then twisting the line with a power drill. Some comments were about how the twisted line would get waterlogged and drag too much for a good pickup.

I only use furled leaders for dry flies and the versions I use are made of UNI thread. I grease them and they float great, cast great and pick-up great.

I know that folks use all mono or fluoro versions for subsurface work but I don't. I also found the all mono or fluoro version were more prone to twisting up and spraying water.

FWIW - I only use level lines when Tenkara fishing. ;)
 
I honestly think you’re overthinking it for blue lining brookies. If you’re fishing a 6’ 6” rod trying to design a 3 part (butt, mid, tippet) leader with multiple size material per section, you’re going to drive yourself into the nut bin.

4’ furled leader, 3’ of your desired tippet material (based on fishing dries - 6X, wets - 5X, nymphs - 4X, or streamers - 3X) - done!!

Or if you want to really keep it simple just use 4X or 5X tippet for everything, because you really don’t need 3X tippet to land a blue line native brookie on a streamer! You’ll be spending a lot more time fishing and catching fish than screwing around with your leader. Tight lines!!
I agree. Keep it very simple since casting is so difficult in tight quarters anyway. I use an 8’ leader top 5 ft is heavy tapered and I attach 3 feet of 4lb trilene typically used on spinnning gear. This is a super cheap and it works for me. I never break off a fly while casting. The 4lb leader doesn’t spook the trout.
 
I posted this recently to a similar thread on a different forum:

Heaps of good info on the World Wide Internet 🙂

IMO Here's a fail-safe 5-step process that'll get you started on the right track:

1. Point your browser here:


2. Watch the entire video at least two times because anyone that wants to small stream fish for Brookies should.

3. Pause the video at 2:52

4. Using a pen and paper, write down all the numbers on the screen.

5. Learn how to tie good blood knots.
 
P.S. the leader diameters in that recipe at 2:52 translate very easily to Maxima Chameleon or Ultragreen diameters which is what I use to tie my leaders. Only exception is in the .011" section - Maxima is available in either .012 or .010, not .011. I just use .010 for that particular 20" length.
 
P.S. the leader diameters in that recipe at 2:52 translate very easily to Maxima Chameleon or Ultragreen diameters which is what I use to tie my leaders. Only exception is in the .011" section - Maxima is available in either .012 or .010, not .011. I just use .010 for that particular 20" length.
Maxima is generally all we use.... building leaders stiffer at the butt and limper at the tippet. We don't actually believe that it's "The leader fish can't see" like it says on the label, but it's been working pretty good for us for as long as I can remember.
 
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