Is there a big difference in expensive fly line?

[southpawcaddis]

I have a few different rods none of which would be considered expensive. Usually fishing for wild fish on smaller streams, I never felt I needed a higher end reel. I was considering trying some different fly line. Is there a considerable difference in "memory" if you upgrade? I have SF Frequency. I do usually try to use a straightener which helps, but am curious of others opinion of value?

 

[dudemanspecial]

I personally don't think there is a BIG difference from the frequency line to the top tier stuff.

I take it coiling is the problem? Before I fish I strip out about 30 feet of line and stretch it and the leader by pulling it across the pad of my thumb a couple times, stopping every foot and a half or so and pulling it tight with both hands.

I don't recommend using one of those leader straightener leather things. It puts too much heat into it.

 

[TerrellBFly]

I personally don't think there is a BIG difference from the frequency line to the top tier stuff.

I take it coiling is the problem? Before I fish I strip out about 30 feet of line and stretch it and the leader by pulling it across the pad of my thumb a couple times, stopping every foot and a half or so and pulling it tight with both hands.

I don't recommend using one of those leader straightener leather things. It puts too much heat into it.

Good call on stretching the line itself to get the memory out of it. I will do this after my gear has been put away for a little. Generally tie on a fly in the parking lot, hook it to a tree or a hitch and walk 50-60 feet away with the drag on free spool. Then pull tight on the line and pull about 3-4 inches slowly and repetitively before winding back up and that will work out the memory of the entirety of the belly of the line.

I have used SA myself and have both the frequency floating and the mastery MPX, and I do like the mastery series a bit better as far as my needs go.

 

[dudemanspecial]

Good call on stretching the line itself to get the memory out of it. I will do this after my gear has been put away for a little. Generally tie on a fly in the parking lot, hook it to a tree or a hitch and walk 50-60 feet away with the drag on free spool. Then pull tight on the line and pull about 3-4 inches slowly and repetitively before winding back up and that will work out the memory of the entirety of the belly of the line.

I have used SA myself and have both the frequency floating and the mastery MPX, and I do like the mastery series a bit better as far as my needs go.

Yeah I didn't mean to imply that the high end lines aren't better, I just don't think they are going to solve any problems compared to what he has already if that makes sense.

 

[sixfootfenwick]

I straighten and grease my line several times a year. It really helps and I can spool the line with the right rod and have it be completely straight and I only buy Cortland peach, sylk or spring creek lines.

I don't think the higher end lines than these make any difference. It's care and storage.

 

[Bamboozle]

First, no matter how many "experts" say it is OK, I have always been of the opinion that stretching plastic fly lines to reduce coils is NOT a good idea and accelerates the cracking process, especially if the line is cold. I have done SOME stretching on a stubborn coil or two, but I'm talking about a foot of line, not 50 -60 feet.

Let me add that I have plastic fly lines in rotation that are 20 years old so maybe I'm on to something... 😉

A couple of things I noticed with fly lines over the years...

​

Harder, less supple lines coil more. Some folks prefer a hard line because they say it works better for them, but I avoid them like the plague. FWIW - I fish real silk lines too which are more supple than anything and they cast & shoot like a dream.​

In my experience, better lines coil less. For that reason I don't cheap out on fly lines, I take care of them and clean them regularly. My preference for all of my trout rods is the SciAngler Mastery DT.​

​

DT's don't experience the severe coiling issues you can have with the running line on WF lines. For that (and other reasons), I fish DT lines which are really all you need on a small stout stream.​

​

ALL plastic fly lines need time to break-in and achieve maximum suppleness which reduces coiling. It is no coincidence my older lines are the lines that are super supple and never coil.​

Good luck!

 

[sixfootfenwick]

First, no matter how many "experts" say it is OK, I have always been of the opinion that stretching plastic fly lines to reduce coils is NOT a good idea and accelerates the cracking process, especially if the line is cold. I have done SOME stretching to a stubborn coil or two, but I'm talking about a foot of line, not 50 -60 feet.

Let me add that I have plastic fly lines in rotation that are 20 years old so maybe I'm on to something... 😉

A couple of things I noticed with fly lines over the years...

​

Harder, less supple lines coil more. Some folks prefer a hard line because they say it works better for them, but I avoid them like the plague. FWIW - I fish real silk lines too which are more supple than anything and they cast & shoot like a dream.​

In my experience, better lines coil less. For that reason I don't cheap out on fly lines, I take care of them and clean them regularly. My preference for all of my trout rods is the SciAngler Mastery DT.​

​

DT's don't experience the severe coiling issues you can have with the running line on WF lines. For that (and other reasons), I fish DT lines which are really all you need on a small stout stream.​

​

ALL plastic fly lines need time to break-in and achieve maximum suppleness which reduces coiling. It is no coincidence my older lines are the lines that are super supple and never coil.​

Good luck!

I agree with this but straightening the line , not stretching, is a good idea right?

 

[TerrellBFly]

First, no matter how many "experts" say it is OK, I have always been of the opinion that stretching plastic fly lines to reduce coils is NOT a good idea and accelerates the cracking process, especially if the line is cold. I have done SOME stretching to a stubborn coil or two, but I'm talking about a foot of line, not 50 -60 feet.

Let me add that I have plastic fly lines in rotation that are 20 years old so maybe I'm on to something... 😉

A couple of things I noticed with fly lines over the years...

​

Harder, less supple lines coil more. Some folks prefer a hard line because they say it works better for them, but I avoid them like the plague. FWIW - I fish real silk lines too which are more supple than anything and they cast & shoot like a dream.​

In my experience, better lines coil less. For that reason I don't cheap out on fly lines, I take care of them and clean them regularly. My preference for all of my trout rods is the SciAngler Mastery DT.​

​

DT's don't experience the severe coiling issues you can have with the running line on WF lines. For that (and other reasons), I fish DT lines which are really all you need on a small stout stream.​

​

ALL plastic fly lines need time to break-in and achieve maximum suppleness which reduces coiling. It is no coincidence my older lines are the lines that are super supple and never coil.​

Good luck!

Been doing this for a decade and have zero issues with SA or Cortland lines cracking in temps ranging from freezing to tropics. It does come back to how you condition and take care of your line, that is paramount. RIO, now that's another story.

 

[TimMurphy]

I have a few different rods none of which would be considered expensive. Usually fishing for wild fish on smaller streams, I never felt I needed a higher end reel. I was considering trying some different fly line. Is there a considerable difference in "memory" if you upgrade? I have SF Frequency. I do usually try to use a straightener which helps, but am curious of others opinion of value?

Dear southpaw,

I haven't seen it mentioned but do you have backing on your reels? If not, that could help. Backing's primary purpose on a trout sized reel is to fill the spool so the fly line lays on the reel in larger looser coils and not tight little curly ques.

Regards,

Tim Murphy 🙂

 

[Bamboozle]

I agree with this but straightening the line , not stretching, is a good idea right?

That can be done by just letting the line hang below you in the current...

 

[sixfootfenwick]

That can be done by just letting the line hang below you in the current...

Yeah it can but I like to grease mine with Aquel after each use. Keeps it clean, floating high, allows it to rip through the guides with ease when casting and straightens out the line.

I agree with you though that stretching isn't the best idea.

 

[wildtrout2]

Yeah it can but I like to grease mine with Aquaseal after each use. Keeps it clean, floating high, allows it to rip through the guides with ease when casting and straightens out the line.

I agree with you though that stretching isn't the best idea.

Do you just apply it to the first number of feet of line?

 

[sixfootfenwick]

Do you just apply it to the first number of feet of line?

Sorry I meant Aquel, not Aquaseal. Lol !

No, I apply it to all 90' of line.

 

[wildtrout2]

Sorry I meant Aquel, not Aquaseal. Lol !

No, I apply it to all 90' of line.

Yeah, when I read Aquaseal, it had me scratching my head. 😂

 

[Bamboozle]

Yeah it can but I like to grease mine with Aquaseal after each use. Keeps it clean, floating high, allows it to rip through the guides with ease when casting and straightens out the line.

I agree with you though that stretching isn't the best idea.

FWIW - I only dress my lines with what is recommended by the manufacturer...

In the case of my SciAngler Lines it is/was most often the AST dressing, on my older Rio lines it is "Poo Goo." when I fished Cortland lines is was the 444 paste in the small tin and I use Otter Butter on my real silk lines...

Today Trident owns all but Otter Butter who know what goes...

 

[sixfootfenwick]

FWIW - I only dress my lines with what is recommended by the manufacturer...

In the case of my SciAngler Lines it is/was most often the AST dressing, on my older Rio lines it is "Poo Goo." when I fished Cortland lines is was the 444 paste in the small tin and I use Otter Butter on my real silk lines...

Today Trident owns all but Otter Butter who know what goes...

That's probably a good general rule.
In my experience, and I have some 20 year old Cortland lined myself, Aquel does wonders for them

 

[TerrellBFly]

Has anyone ever used Mucilin to dress their lines? I have heard about it, but never used it.

 

[jifigz]

Has anyone ever used Mucilin to dress their lines? I have heard about it, but never used it.

Has anyone ever used it? Yes, someone has used it. Have I used it? No, I have not used it.

I fish a lot, and I take good care of my stuff, except for my fly line. I don't clean it; I don't dress it, per se, except for putting Aquel on the front bit of my line if it starts to sink. Is this good for my line? I have no idea.

I am admittedly really rough on my fly line. I have found excellent cheap lines, and I have found garbage cheap lines. I have found excellent more expensive lines, and I have found more expensive lines that I don't totally care for.

 

[sixfootfenwick]

Has anyone ever used it? Yes, someone has used it. Have I used it? No, I have not used it.

I fish a lot, and I take good care of my stuff, except for my fly line. I don't clean it; I don't dress it, per se, except for putting Aquel on the front bit of my line if it starts to sink. Is this good for my line? I have no idea.

I am admittedly really rough on my fly line. I have found excellent cheap lines, and I have found garbage cheap lines. I have found excellent more expensive lines, and I have found more expensive lines that I don't totally care for.

You are just a bundle of help 😂

 

[Bamboozle]

Has anyone ever used Mucilin to dress their lines? I have heard about it, but never used it.

There are two types of Mucilin, one in a red container and the other in a green container with the green version containing silicone.

It is an OK dressing, but it was really intended to be used on real silk lines which MUST be dressed to float. What sucks about Mucilin is it melts at a low temperature so if you carry it in a vest, pocket or pack, it WILL melt all over the place unless you put some in some type of watertight container.

However a CLEAN plastic line needs no dressing because the buoyancy is IN the coating, not in some factory applied dressing ON the coating. I clean my plastic lines regularly so I typically never find a need to apply line dressings.

If you aren't the type keep your fly lines clean, a line dressing will help but wipe it on then wipe off the excess or it will just accumulate more fine dirt and keep sinking and it becomes a vicious cycle.

AT MINIMUM, invest in a package of Rio Wonder Cloths and tuck a few away in your vest, pocket or pack.

If the tip of your line begins to sink, BEFORE you apply any line dressing, wet the Wonder Cloth in the creek, pull the end of your fly line through it a few times to clean off some of the grit, THEN dry off that section of fly line and apply the line dressing, remembering to wipe off the excess.

The Wonder Cloth doesn't require any soap, takes up less space than a leader, could serve as TP for small events and won't damage your fly line. Bottom line, you WILL get MUCH better and longer lasting results when using line dressing if you do the Wonder Cloth thing first versus just wiping on some line goop.