Fly Fishing Hacks

[mcwillja]

BrookieChaser wrote:

KeithS wrote:
You can use the magnets they sell that are rubber coated, OR you can put masking tape on the side that will contact the paint.

It's not the magnet itself that is harmful to the clearcoat. It is the dirt between it and the clearcoat, and the movement taking it on and off.

I have those magnetic rod holders and what I did is I took the 2mm foam that I make beetles and ants with and super glued a small piece on each magnet and have never scratched my paint. It works really well and highly recommend doing that.

I also use a wader mat and when Im done I put it back in my wading boot/wader tote so that the SUV doesn't get filthy. It works geat.

 

[pcray1231]

Ok, I read some, but not all, so sorry if I repeat any:

1. Make your leaders just short enough that, when the fly is on the hook keeper, the fly line-leader knot is just off the rod tip. So after walking, when you unhook the fly, you don't gotta work that knot through the tippy top. That's usually about the correct length anyway.

2. If you have to make the leader longer than #1, when you want to hook it up to the hook keeper, wrap it around the reel handle and then back up to the hook keeper. Lets you do #1 with a little longer leader.

3. When tying clinch knots, don't wrap the tag end around the line. Grab the line and tag end with one hand and twist the fly itself.

4. When tying any knots, if you have trouble seeing the line detail to "hit the right holes", hold the line against a light, solid background. At dusk, when this is most difficult, the sky is the lightest thing around.

5. It's much better to apply floatant BEFORE the fly gets wet!

6. To keep marital bliss, the most important thing is the boots. When dirty, put them in a plastic tub to keep the car clean. When you get home, if you leave everything else in the car for a bit, make sure those boots come out right away.

7. Standard rule of thumb. When getting ready to fish, the fly rod is the LAST thing you get out and set up. When returning to the car, it's the FIRST thing to get put away. This prevents having to lean it somewhere, which is how rods get broken.

8. When wading water that's a bit too fast, always angle downstream. Everyone knows to turn their side to the current, but it's better to walk further up, cross angling down, and then continue up.

 

[PatrickC]

You have obviously never seen my wife's car Pcray ;-) I call it the dumpster-mobile... She wishes her car was as clean as my fishing truck :-D

 

[fishbaithohaha]

Rod/Reel tube made from PVC pipe.

 

[pcray1231]

I've settled on buying good quality flies. I always end up picking a dozen or two each year from low priced outfits, like the Fly Shack. They look fine at first. But I always regret it in the end.

They don't stay afloat, and start coming apart quickly. If you spend twice as much at a good local fly store, they work better, and last 4 times as long.

(by "work better", I don't mean that they necessarily catch more fish by looking better. I mean that if a dry fly, they float better. If a nymph, they sink better. etc.)

 

[fishbaithohaha]

Cheap surgical gloves for cold weather. Reluctant to handle fish with gloves, I keep extra gloves in vest pocket. Available in paint departments of hardware stores.

 

[lv2nymph]

Younger wrote:
Instead of trashing your cars floor mats, grab some carpet samples at a carpet store and use them to stand on.

I did that for years, then I saw one of those clear plastic mats with the little suction cups on the bottom for in the tub so you don't slip and use that now. Works way better and dries out in no time, which had always been the biggest thing I didn't like about the carpet sample piece.

 

[Maurice]

troutbert wrote:

Biggie wrote:

When caught on an out of reach tree branch, turn your rod around and hook the reel over the branch and pull it down.

I do that also. Here's a related technique for retrieving flies.

Look around for a long branch with side branches. You can break off the side branches, but leaving enough of a side branch on the one end of the long branch to act as a hook.

wait a minute...did troutbert remove streamside vegetation? I hope after your done you threw it in the crik for some woody debris. :-D

 

[brookieaddict]

Wow,some realy great ideas , here's a couple if they wern't already mentioned;

1.If your guides ice up, put some floatant on them , no water,no ice.
2.If your hands and fingers get too cold to fish put some hot hands in your gloves on the back of your hands, not on the palm.
3.Hook your fly on the next guide from the tip, then loop the leader around the reel foot and tighten the slack . It will keep the fly off your hands and clothing while,keeping the leader straight and when you unhook the fly you have enough line out to cast about 14 to18 feet depending on the rod length.
4.Wading staffs are a must when fishing in the cold, it keeps two points of contact helping you keep your balance. Cold water kills.
5.If you getting strikes but no fish,slow your presentation down or, slide a longer shank hook over the fly's hook and bend the fly hook enough so the trailer hook won't fall off.

 

[PatrickC]

Great thread folks! Used the trick attaching the hook to a zipper when tightening a knot yesterday and it was awesome.

 

[Maurice]

MattBoyer wrote:
When snagged on a rock at the bottom, roll cast your line to he other side of the snag, then lift your line out quickly, causing the line to pull in the other direction.

Boyer

This is a good one...I do this too. Also when stuck on the bottom in a position upstream of you, simply walk above the snag and pull it out. Works 99% of the time.

Wading fast and deep currents above the knee but below the waist, Face upstream and bend knees a bit. Step side to side, never crossing your legs or stepping without feeling the bottom first. Facing upstream keeps the pressure Isometric against your legs. Facing downstream can pop your knee into a bend causing you to slip. And walking with your right or left hip upstream changes the resistance on your legs with each step from your downstream leg being in an eddie behind your your upstream leg to heavy pressure in current. It also causes you to take risky steps.

Never cross in faster water that is above the crotch. You need the bulk of your weight out of the water to anchor down your legs. Once your waist is under water you become more buoyant and your feet begin to lose footing.

 

[JackM]

Here are a few of mine:

1. You can't cast accurately, nor mend well. Therefore, you should cast well above your target area and drag the fly into upstream position with enough slack in your line left behind to ensure an adequate drift.

2. Trout hide in front of, next to, and behind rocks. Therefore, cast near rocks.

3. Analyze any fish picks you post for possible nitpicking criticism, such as setting the background in mud or dry leaves, stick fingers in gills, etc., and never post such a picture without a prior explanation of why you don't appear to be the greatest lover of trout ever born.

 

[PatrickC]

JackM wrote:

3. Analyze any fish picks you post for possible nitpicking criticism, such as setting the background in mud or dry leaves, stick fingers in gills, etc., and never post such a picture without a prior explanation of why you don't appear to be the greatest lover of trout ever born.

We have a winner!

 

[troutbert]

Maurice wrote:

troutbert wrote:

Biggie wrote:

When caught on an out of reach tree branch, turn your rod around and hook the reel over the branch and pull it down.

I do that also. Here's a related technique for retrieving flies.

Look around for a long branch with side branches. You can break off the side branches, but leaving enough of a side branch on the one end of the long branch to act as a hook.

wait a minute...did troutbert remove streamside vegetation?

Pick up a dead dry branch from the ground; the side branches will snap off easily.

The side branches are angled upwards, so you hold the branch by the top end, with the butt end extended upward. Snap off all the side branches, except the top one, which you snap partly off, but leave a few inches of it to act as a hook.

In this way you can retrieve flies that are WAY up there. It's kind of a fun challenge.

 

[wgmiller]

Maurice wrote:
Wading fast and deep currents above the knee but below the waist, Face upstream and bend knees a bit. Step side to side, never crossing your legs or stepping without feeling the bottom first.

Great advice. Also, use a wading staff, tree branch, or other sturdy item to create the third point of contact. Lean forward slightly while facing upstream and shuffle your feet side-to-side to the best of your ability. It doesn't take much fast moving water to get swept off your feet, so when navigating moving water, always face upstream and try to maintain three points of contact.

Wade across fast moving water in a team of at least two if at all possible. Two people = 2X the mass!

 

[KeithS]

When tying with beads, turn a mouse pad over. The underside is usually textured enough to keep the beads from rolling.

 

[gfen]

JackM wrote:
3. Analyze any fish picks you post for possible nitpicking criticism, such as setting the background in mud or dry leaves, stick fingers in gills, etc., and never post such a picture without a prior explanation of why you don't appear to be the greatest lover of trout ever born.

The dirty ones like two fingers up in their gill slits.

 

[fishbaithohaha]

Like: mouse pad

 

[GenCon]

Haven't posted in a while. Too busy hunting. In low light tie your flies on with a duncan loop. Oce you passed the hard part of getting the tippet through the hook eye. You can create a larger loop to tie your fly on. If you don't know how to tie this knot. I am sure someone can show you. Also I always ues a duncan loop to tie dropper flies on to another hook. You can tie the complete knot, then slide over the hook point and pull tight. It takes ony seconds to do. Also then if you want to change your dropper fly just pull the knot away from the hook above and slide off. I have a special box I keep a few flies with droppers which I can use over again. Try using a tungston bead in place of split shot. If you just loop your tippet around bead once you can adjust the placement of your bead by sliding bead up or down leader.

GenCon

 

[lestrout]

Never put anything, especially your rod, on top of the car or trunk. Rather, if you put items on the hood or against the windshield, you won't likely drive off without them.