Fly Fishing Hacks

If it's wet, muddy or there is snow on the ground, pull out a floor mat from your car and lay it down for a dry/clean surface to stand on when changing in and out of waders and socks.

Few things worse than wet socks to start out the day in my book.
 
When snagged on a rock at the bottom, roll cast your line to he other side of the snag, then lift your line out quickly, causing the line to pull in the other direction.

Boyer
 
for brookies, have flies tied on hooks that bend before your leader breaks.
 
I have trouble seeing to tie small flies on. So I use a needle threader. I put the fly on the threader through the eye of the hook and run the tippet through just like your threading a needle. Works great for me. It also helps in cold weather if my hands are shaking.
I also keep most of my small fly's already stacked on threaders so I don't have to mount them on the threader at the stream. I will keep maybe 6 or so stacked on each threader.
 
A guide in Idaho showed me this neat trick for when your leader slides down past the rod tip and into the guides of your fly rod. Put the tip of the fly rod a few inches underwater with the remaining portion of leader on the water. Sweep the tip in a wide arc in one swift motion. The rod tip will flex and the friction from the water will easily pull the leader and fly line back out through the guide and tip.
 
This is a good thread, here are a few of mine.

When transporting your rod after you've rigged it up to fish, hook the fly on the guide above the stripping guide and loop the line over the frame of your reel. When you are in position to cast again, just take the line off your reel frame, smack the top of the rod handle with your hand and the fly will drop onto the water with enough line out of the tip to begin casting.

For streamers on sink tips:

Roll cast before begining your first back cast. It wont feel like trying to pull a brick out of the water. Also, learn the Snap T and Double Spey casts

For packs and whatnot:

Tape down your excess strap materials after you have adjusted the pack to fit you. Less stuff for line to get snagged on, and it wont loosen up.

For casting flies under cover:

Side arm cast low to the water and skip the fly off the surface under the target cover like you are trying to skip a stone.

When casting down stream to cover:

Stand in the middle of the stream, cast to open water upstream of the target and throw a huge mend in the direction of the cover, the fly will swing into the covered area. When you need to pick up after the drift, mend towards the center of the stream and the fly will swing out of the covered area.


 
Here's one I forgot to mention. Buy one of those magnetic rod holders to keep your rod upright and against your car. Mine has been on the car for several years, so far nobody has swiped it. This keeps the rod away from doors and roof tops.
 
So far I've gleaned that fly fishers don't care about their vehicles.
 
We care about our rods, reels, waders, boots, flies, packs,........
 
^ I noticed that.

I care about my rods and reels, not so much about my waders and boots past cleaning them (probably why they leak), flies (I can tie more), packs (don't have any, just a chest box)...

I care about my truck. I for dang sure ain't getting mud on the floor by putting the floor mat out on the ground to stand on, or putting a magnetic rod holder on the exterior, all the while scratching the paint underneath the magnet.

 
Similar to Mr. Mustards, I just keep an old rubber welcome mat in my trunk for changing out of waders. Placed on the ground when removing them, and then I put my wet wading shoes on them for the ride home so that water doesn't continue to soak through..
 
Instead of trashing your cars floor mats, grab some carpet samples at a carpet store and use them to stand on.
 
While not directly a hack, it is something I think is important, especially if you are a winter fisherman - Take dry clothing in a "dunk bag" that you keep in the vehicle.

It's not a question of IF you will fall in, but WHEN.
 
I never understood the need to stand on something. My Dad has a bag for his wading boots that has a removable mat to stand on.

Here is what I do: I slip off one of my cowboy boots, then put that leg in the waders and that wading boot on, slip the other cowboy boot off, and repeat with that leg.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUqqkqE3jWc
 
BC,

I remember that AITF and I laughed my but off now just as much as I did than.... Thanks!

Don
 
keep a small ziploc bag in your pocket, when you snip off a fly just drop it in. keeps moisture out of your fly box and reminds you what flies did or didn't work, once you get home.

also, if you have a 4x4 don't forget your AAA card - AWD won't stop you getting stuck, but it will mean you do get stuck in more difficult places....

burts bees lip balm (ask the wife first. or don't) stops rod ferrules sticking.

if you have an SUV tailgate, always put the car keys through the latch on the floor - that way if you slam the gate down shut and haven't put your keys in your waders, it won't lock you out miles from anywhere in a no cell zone...

your wife does not want to clean the delicious trout you caught her.

if someone steps in the stream five yards below you, and asks 'do you mind if i fish down in front of you' always reply "thank you for asking, sure.... do you mind if I take a #censor# here ? "

GB
 
dsmith1427 wrote:
BC,

I remember that AITF and I laughed my but off now just as much as I did than.... Thanks!

Don

I'm glad you enjoyed the video Don. It came to mind as I was posting my "wader" tutorial.

I watched that show all the time when it was in syndication on TV Land. It would have been better had I figured out how to embed the video.
 
You can use the magnets they sell that are rubber coated, OR you can put masking tape on the side that will contact the paint.
 
KeithS wrote:
You can use the magnets they sell that are rubber coated, OR you can put masking tape on the side that will contact the paint.

It's not the magnet itself that is harmful to the clearcoat. It is the dirt between it and the clearcoat, and the movement taking it on and off.
 
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