Deuterium
Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2011
- Messages
- 122
What do posters think of Galloup's claim that fishing nymphs 6" off the stream bed rather than along the bottom is important, because trout do not feed below where their head?
jacob wrote:
I think the 6" thing makes sense, but like all other things in fly-fishing there are no hard fast rules. I'm sure fish eat plenty of things rolling along the bottom and I doubt they would say "eh, it's not 6" up I am not eating it."
I would agree that a fish has a better chance of seeing it slightly off the bottom and not below their line of sight.
NewSal wrote:
Nymphing a heavily weighted point fly, is exactly the same thing as drop shotting except the "drop shot" is a fly, and that fly can catch fish, shot cant.
jacob wrote:
I think the 6" thing makes sense, but like all other things in fly-fishing there are no hard fast rules. I'm sure fish eat plenty of things rolling along the bottom and I doubt they would say "eh, it's not 6" up I am not eating it."
I would agree that a fish has a better chance of seeing it slightly off the bottom and not below their line of sight.
Deuterium wrote:
What do posters think of Galloup's claim that fishing nymphs 6" off the stream bed rather than along the bottom is important, because trout do not feed below where their head?
ryansheehan wrote:
4.distance from bottom
It took me a long time to realize #4 was just as important as the other
three.Where in the water column you fish is often overlooked until you catch a few fish right after changing.
PennKev wrote:
NewSal wrote:
Nymphing a heavily weighted point fly, is exactly the same thing as drop shotting except the "drop shot" is a fly, and that fly can catch fish, shot cant.
Fishing a heavy point fly is a great way to lose a lot of heavy point flies. If the fish aren't eating a tungsten bead head, lead wire wrapped, copper ribbed thingamajig then fish the drop shot.
I guess my point is that using a drop shot rig with split shot is a great way to make bottom contact without snagging up constantly.
First, the flies themselves; if you don't tie, it's really hard to find flies to fish of different weights. If you do tie you may spend more time at the vise and filling your flybox with the same patterns all in different weights. With shot, any fly or fly pattern will work, since the fly is not used to get your rig down to the bottom. Rather than choosing the fly for its weight, you are more free to choose a fly for it's fish catching ability. How frustrating would it be to have the right pattern, but in the wrong weight and have your fly clunk on the bottom because its over weighted or ride up near the surface being underweighted.
JakesLeakyWaders wrote:
I find it funny that the fly fishing community adapts something used by bass fisherman forever, renames it, and says its new.
I read an article decades ago, from Infisherman magazine I think titled "Fishing on the Rocks". It basically describes how to peg a bullet weight with a bead and toothpick below a soft plastic bait so that you can feel structure and keep your bait just above the bottom allowing you to just give a tug if you become stuck and add a new weight before your next cast instead of having to re-rig.
I was too cheap for fancy beads so I would use a split shot below a bullet sinker 18" below a soft plastic. Worked great in deeper lakes like Marburg.
Being a bass fisherman first, I eventually learned the same techniques can be used in fly fishing as in spin fishing but with more finesse, which is just cool, man.
My favorite is when fly fisherman invented the bobber...... indicator.
SteveG wrote:
Galloup's claim is not correct as fish can see below that 6" area, due to reflection at the surface.
In the Ring of the Rise has some good info on trout vision that will change the way you fish.