What’s the trick to bending rather than snapping (grrr) barbs?

[SBecker]

The first barbless hook was patented in 1877, I’m afraid that competition fly fishing is a much newer concept than that.

I am not talking about barbless hooks, I am speaking about the competition style he mentioned. Make sure you don’t buy them!

 

[Cznymph]

I am not talking about barbless hooks, I am speaking about the competition style he mentioned. Make sure you don’t buy them!

What makes them “competition” hooks?

Some special feature that stocked trout can’t resist?

 

[jifigz]

What makes them “competition” hooks?

Some special feature that stocked trout can’t resist?

Yes. They come pre-scented like power bait and salmon eggs.

In all seriousness, it's just more marketing BS to appeal to certain crowds. I buy them because they're cheap and high quality.

 

[sixfootfenwick]

What makes them “competition” hooks?

Some special feature that stocked trout can’t resist?

These Hooks Bend Out

Hook design is for grown ups, not for just anyone with some open-source CAD software. Poorly designed hooks will bend out.

troutbitten.com

Perfected!

 

[hooker-of-men]

Obviously, "comp" stands for compassionate hook - not competition hook. They bend out so you can long-distance release and not over handle the fish with those rough, dry hands.

 

[Kms]

Flyfishers Paradise used to sell Xuron pliers (and maybe still do) that were ideal for pinching down barbs. I just keep them with my fly tying gear, and pinch down every barb before putting the hook in the vise.

I think these Xuron pliers are from the electronics industry. They are perfect for small to medium sized flies.

For big hooks, I use heavier duty needle nose pliers.

Thx. I’ve been using both Xuron tweezer nose and extra fine bent chain nose pliers.

 

[nfrechet]

 

[kbobb]

I recall Lefty Kreh saying to place your pliers along the long axis of the hook point to de-barb. He claimed this didn't break off points and prefered it to pinching across the short axis - see this article:

Lefty Kreh – Crimping Hook Barbs – Without Breaking the Hook | Dan Blanton » Fly Fishing Resources

www.danblanton.com

 

[SBecker]

What makes them “competition” hooks?

Some special feature that stocked trout

These Hooks Bend Out

Hook design is for grown ups, not for just anyone with some open-source CAD software. Poorly designed hooks will bend out.

troutbitten.com

Perfected!

Article from 2019 and he did not mention name brands, which is kinda crappy, like the hooks he probably purchased from Smoke Hole, Allen, Trout Legend I fish Hends, Dohiku, Fulling Mill, Hanak, Fasna and might have had 3-5 hooks bend out on me in all the years I have fished them.

 

[Sylvaneous]

I would guess I’m maybe 3 for 4 when crushing barbs, which sucks. Also brands vary widely: Mustads will usually cooperate, but Daiichis do not.

I’ve tried different pliers, my vise, differing angles, and speeds from moderate to slow to really friggin slow. What’s the trick that I’m missing?
——
My point here is that I don’t like the little pieces of metal shrapnel. And before captain obvious says “use barbless,” yeah, I will, after I work through my inventory of barbed hooks.

Don Douple liked when the barbs broke off.

 

[Kms]

Don Douple liked when the barbs broke off.

I wouldn’t mind outside, but I bend them before I tie, and would rather avoid tiny metal shrapnel.

 

[dryflyguy]

I wouldn’t mind outside, but I bend them before I tie, and would rather avoid tiny metal shrapnel.

They’re so tiny, that I’ve just never been concerned about them

 

[nymphingmaniac]

No I don’t want sharp little pieces of shrapnel.

its a size 18-14 hook, not a grenade.

 

[kbobb]

I wouldn’t mind outside, but I bend them before I tie, and would rather avoid tiny metal shrapnel.

I pinch barbs over a garbage can which is below my vise.

 

[troutbert]

The problem with little pieces of shrapnel breaking off is the danger to your EYES.

Wear eye protection.

 

[tomgamber]

I rarely have them snap off. they just bend. I found a slow press in the vice works best. Flip it back over and get tying.

 

[gfenlikestolosepasswords]

I use a flat jaw pliers and come in from a sort of angle. Mash hard and/or repeatedly. Problem generally solved.

I don't think I've ever snapped a tip off, or a barb.

 

[dryflyguy]

The problem with little pieces of shrapnel breaking off is the danger to your EYES.

Wear eye protection.

I wear glasses anyway

 

[Bamboozle]

Just don't SQUEEZE so hard. It ain't blacksmithing...

We are talking about bending a tiny sliver of metal out of the way. In my experience the point of the barb most often curls down leaving a bump. That is all that needs to be done to make the hook in effect, barbless.

That takes MINIMAL pressure. I've done it at home with a TINY pair of smooth jaw long nose pliers I have at the bench and in the field with my smooth jaw hemostats.

If you are trying to make the barb totally flat, you are looking for trouble...

I also concur with Lefty's Kreh's advice to put the pliers in line with the hook point versus coming in from the side. This ensures the most pressure will be on the point of the barb versus where the barb joins the hook.

A couple of other S's that will help:

​

Smooth Jaws - Smooth jaws are ALWAYS the preferred tool for wire bending of any kind. Serrated jaws MAY scratch or nick the metal creating a weak spot, resulting in breakage.​

​

Small Tools - Smaller pliers or hemostats make it harder to apply pressure. If the steel in the tool handles is slightly flexible, that is better and if the jaws are parallel, that is best.​

​

S-L-O-W-L-Y - Squeeze down the barb slowly & lightly versus fast and hard. Check it, and if the barb isn't out of the way, do it again with even lighter pressure.​

Good luck!!