afishinado
Moderator
Staff member
WWKimba
Active member
I like to tie many dry patterns Commando style - sans the wings. They take about half the time to tie and a LOT less frustration (plus I like to work with newer tyers and this uses a lesser number of materials - 2 materials only - in many cases).
Many years ago, I found a more bullet proof way to add dubbing - the wide loop method. It is an off shoot of Polly Rosborough's method of adding dubbing especially the longer super fine dubbing. You'll pull out a length of dubbing material the same as you would if you were noodle dubbing. For the loop, anchor the thread at the rear tie in point. Now go to just behind the hook eye with that end of the loop, now wrap back over that end of the loop back to the hackle tie in point - this is the wide loop. Now place the dubbing in the loop with about a gap width of space between the top of the dubbing and the hook shank. Now pinch the dubbing and loop lightly - the dubbing is NOT touching the threads enough to stay in place so you need to support it until the loop closes a bit. Spin your loop, remove your pinch - the dubbing will stay in place and the twisting thread will move out at the ends to capture the ends of the dubbing. When the thread/shank triangle mostly closes, stop spinning and begin to wrap the loop back to the back tie in point - these wraps should be twisted thread only if you left enough space between the top of the dubbing and the hook shank. Once you hit the dubbing end, start wrapping the dubbing as usual and tie off when you hit the hackle tie in point - one other advantage of this method is that if you have too long a dubbing loop you can still tie it off where needed and cut off the extra dubbed material. Alsp, the dubbing is surrounded with two lengths of thread and that's another reason it's more bullet proof.
Did I ever warn you that I can get a bit wordy? Well now you know!
Kim
Many years ago, I found a more bullet proof way to add dubbing - the wide loop method. It is an off shoot of Polly Rosborough's method of adding dubbing especially the longer super fine dubbing. You'll pull out a length of dubbing material the same as you would if you were noodle dubbing. For the loop, anchor the thread at the rear tie in point. Now go to just behind the hook eye with that end of the loop, now wrap back over that end of the loop back to the hackle tie in point - this is the wide loop. Now place the dubbing in the loop with about a gap width of space between the top of the dubbing and the hook shank. Now pinch the dubbing and loop lightly - the dubbing is NOT touching the threads enough to stay in place so you need to support it until the loop closes a bit. Spin your loop, remove your pinch - the dubbing will stay in place and the twisting thread will move out at the ends to capture the ends of the dubbing. When the thread/shank triangle mostly closes, stop spinning and begin to wrap the loop back to the back tie in point - these wraps should be twisted thread only if you left enough space between the top of the dubbing and the hook shank. Once you hit the dubbing end, start wrapping the dubbing as usual and tie off when you hit the hackle tie in point - one other advantage of this method is that if you have too long a dubbing loop you can still tie it off where needed and cut off the extra dubbed material. Alsp, the dubbing is surrounded with two lengths of thread and that's another reason it's more bullet proof.
Did I ever warn you that I can get a bit wordy? Well now you know!
Kim
coyoterahn
Active member
A video would be nice. 🤔🤷♂️😉I like to tie many dry patterns Commando style - sans the wings. They take about half the time to tie and a LOT less frustration (plus I like to work with newer tyers and this uses a lesser number of materials - 2 materials only - in many cases).
Many years ago, I found a more bullet proof way to add dubbing - the wide loop method. It is an off shoot of Polly Rosborough's method of adding dubbing especially the longer super fine dubbing. You'll pull out a length of dubbing material the same as you would if you were noodle dubbing. For the loop, anchor the thread at the rear tie in point. Now go to just behind the hook eye with that end of the loop, now wrap back over that end of the loop back to the hackle tie in point - this is the wide loop. Now place the dubbing in the loop with about a gap width of space between the top of the dubbing and the hook shank. Now pinch the dubbing and loop lightly - the dubbing is NOT touching the threads enough to stay in place so you need to support it until the loop closes a bit. Spin your loop, remove your pinch - the dubbing will stay in place and the twisting thread will move out at the ends to capture the ends of the dubbing. When the thread/shank triangle mostly closes, stop spinning and begin to wrap the loop back to the back tie in point - these wraps should be twisted thread only if you left enough space between the top of the dubbing and the hook shank. Once you hit the dubbing end, start wrapping the dubbing as usual and tie off when you hit the hackle tie in point - one other advantage of this method is that if you have too long a dubbing loop you can still tie it off where needed and cut off the extra dubbed material. Alsp, the dubbing is surrounded with two lengths of thread and that's another reason it's more bullet proof.
Did I ever warn you that I can get a bit wordy? Well now you know!
Kim
sgrim
Active member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
- Messages
- 339
Agree... I cannot visualize what is described.
coyoterahn
Active member
Guess I should have read the instructions 🤦
WWKimba
Active member
I know but, 1) I don't have a camera to take a series of still pictures and,
2) As for a video camera - see 1) above!
I had a very nice camera that did both but on a flight back from Florida, some baggage handler must have needed a last-minute gift for their sig other!
Kim
sgrim
Active member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
- Messages
- 339
Ok, I re-read the intial description above and I realize that, yes, it's just a dubbing loop. For some reason I got lost in the narrative and it seemed like some sort of complicated variation that I didn't recognize.
WWKimba
Active member
Almost like it. In the video the initial loop starts AND ends at the same point on the shank but otherwise the same as Tim's version. I learned dubbing loops with the start and end at where you wanted the loop to start wrapping on the shank when the loop was completely twisted (no tie back to the start point.). Clear as mud yet!?
Kim
sgrim
Active member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2016
- Messages
- 339
Ok I swear I’m an intelligent professional who can hold a job. I’m confused again. I tie a loop starting and ending at point C in the attached, highly intricate, diagram .. do you do the same?
WWKimba
Active member
One end of the loop is at C (the back tie in - say just above the hook point), the other end is at A and thread wrapped to pont B, twist dubbing noodle until there is an point side down obtuse triangle with the 2 threads as the sides and the hook shank as the base, wrap the twisted loop to point C, when dub touches shank wrap to point B and you have your dubbed body.
Ta Da!??
Kim
Or just hybridize Polly's method with the straight dubbing loop method - with more emphasis on Polly.
Ta Da!??
Kim
Or just hybridize Polly's method with the straight dubbing loop method - with more emphasis on Polly.
F
falcon
Well-known member
Clear as mud
