New Rod or Not

M

mre3810

Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
31
Been flyfishing 2 years now. I have a cheap 40 dollar Cortland rod. Does a more expensive rod make a difference? If I would pay say 200 dollars for a new rod would I see a improvement in my casting from the rod alone? Is a more expensive rod worth the money?
 
Short answer, yes, a 200-300 rod would probably improve things 10-20% casting wise, above $300 I think threre is progressively diminishing returns. Your casting would probably improve and be more enjoyable, but you proabably won't catch many, if any more fish.
 
I'd go mid-level like a Temple fork outfitters or a lower end st. croix. I know I'd go that way because that's what I did!

They perform much better than low end rods, and give you a feel for what a "good" rod is like...and they don't break the bank.
 
Great post by OhioOutdoorsman, he gave some great advice. Just a few other things to add and observations/experiences/questions.

1. On better fly rods, the guides are closer together. Can't remember the exact spacing between them, but this will definately improve the line shooting out of the rod. Example---I had a St. Croix Premier Series rod which was about $90 when I bought it. As time went on and years passed the rod was ready for retirement. I picked up a Sage Launch for under $200 and noticed a huge improvement in the line shooting and even casting was easier.

2. You might want to consider a lesson with a guide or at a local fly shop, which would improve casting regardless of which rod you use. I too was self taught and the best investment I made was booking a guide for a 1/2 day of lesson and guide service. That elevated my game so to speak. Even with the old St. Croix.

3. What kind of streams do you fish? Can you get the rod to load and cast where you want it on the waters you fish? Are there specific problems you're having that made you question/doubt your rod? Is it possible that the line you have isn't going out due to it being old or not cleaned or treated with fly line dressing? As fly line gets older, it becomes cracked and if untreated it won't cast as far. Aside from the normal trout fishing I do, I fish two times a year for 7 days straight, minimum of 10 hours a day. I treat my line a minimum of once daily during these trips, many times more. I can definately notice the performance after the line being cleaned.

Perhaps if you provided more information to the members here we could help you get the results you're looking for.

Great question.
 
If you fish a lot, buying one of the lower end high quality rods from Sage, St Croix, Scott, etc, might be worth it just for the warrenty.

I got a Sage Launch and it has a lifetime warrenty, a feature which tends to be overlooked but can come up so huge if you break your rod, which if it hasn't happened to you, there is an extreemely good chance it will.
 
For warranty: TFO replaced my rod no questions asked.

Though the old one was plain and a bit more sleek. The new one has lefty's sig as well as a few more emblems, but I'm not complaining that much.
 
Jaybo,

The only complant I usually have with my casting is the way the leader sometimes lays out on the water. At times it lands more bunched up than I would like. As far as cleaning my line, right now I probably clean it twice a season.
 
mre3810 wrote:
Jaybo,

The only complant I usually have with my casting is the way the leader sometimes lays out on the water. At times it lands more bunched up than I would like. As far as cleaning my line, right now I probably clean it twice a season.

If the leader is bunched up, you may not be getting the power snap right. You want to close up your wrist with a good firm snap at the end of the forward cast (and open it about an hour on the clock face on the backcast... just a little... and give the backcast enough time to get fully out behind you). Then stop hard. Don't move the tip of the rod at all while the cast is shooting out to the target. It's only when the fly is hovering over the target that you let the tip fall.

There are a bunch of great books and web resources on casting, if you want to read a full description of what I am talking about.

I've used the Cortland rods, and I think they are pretty darn good. You may want to upgrade at some point, or get a longer rod for bigger water, or a heavier rod for bass etc. But there's nothing much wrong with a Cortland. They just don't look as fancy as some other rods... but they fish very well.
 
To be honest, you might get better value with a casting lesson. Good casting is hard to learn from a book or video.....books and videos are good for people learning how to teach others to cast but they are really hard to learn casting from. Check out free web resources and go to a bookstore/library and read a chapter or two there. Sexyloops.com is a good web resource. You could have problems with your power snap, timing problems, having a mismatch between the line/leader and the size of your fly, etc, a decent instructor could sort this all out for you in a hour lesson. Check your local TU or fly shop.....many often have free casting clinics.

As far as equipment goes, to help with turnover (your problem), you could consider the following:

1) Overlining your rod (put on one line size heavier). This would do two things. First, it would cause your rod to flex more while casting which in general allows you to feel the line load which is very helpful in getting good timing. Second, the increased mass of the line would help turn over larger flies. Most rods really can handle two, maybe three line weights.

2) Consider a long bellied, traingle taper-like line....cortland long belly, rio selective, orvis superfine/easy mend wonderline, and Wulff TT/ Wulff TT long belly lines would fall into this category. These lines have a larger amount of mass at the rear of the belly.....this promotes good energy tranfer down your line to leader to fly.

Now, both of these suggestions will reduce your ability to shoot line somewhat, but we're talking fishing not a distance casting competition. They will also help you be able to mend well also, which is just as important as casting IMHO.

If you still want to get a rod, get one that feels good and that you can feel load. These tend to be longer, more moderate action rods, but each caster has their own groove. Try several out.
 
mre, there is lots of great feedback here. Based on your comments about how the leader bunches up on the water, I really think casting lessons would be beneficial. There is only so much you can learn being self taught. I did that too, so I know what you're going through. Best thing I ever did was take a lesson, it really paid for itself as I learned so much. Books, videos, advice, etc are definately good as supplemental material, but a lesson would bridge the gap. If not a lesson, see if you can hook up with one of the members here that is from your area. There are people always willing to help and anxious to fish.

Something else comes to mind from a recent thread I saw...maybe the fly you're casting isn't proportinate to the leader size?

http://www.paflyfish.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=1817&forum=2
 
I always say buy the best that you can afford (not the most expensive, That’s not always the best). I can catch just as many fish with a Kmart special as one of by bamboo fly rods. Now ask me what I prefer to cast and fish and I’ll say Bamboo. Rod action, casting style and length or distance fishing makes more of a difference on how or what rod I make or buy or for that matter what rod gets to take a walk that day. IMO if you are looking for a new rod buy one that is going to fit 90 percent of the areas and type of fishing that you do. When you can afford another rod start filling in with specialty rods to fit the other 10 percent of your fishing.

Joe E
 
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