Felt Sole Boots

[MattM]

I just read an article in American Angler about the push to eliminate felt soles by the manufacturers for environmental reasons. It seems logical that these are reasons invasive species and disease can be transported, and I have no problem with "having" to buy another pair of boots. But for now, is there any way or product to treat felt that would kill off harmful highjackers in between trips? Maybe flash boiling....I can hear my wife now. Could it be possible that anything would be living in the felt after non-use for a week?

Also does anyone own any of the new rubber soled boots that have great traction like felt?

 

[jayL]

I don't think anything has better traction than felt, but I've never used the aquastealths. I've heard they are not equivalent.

I put them in a bleach and salt water solution, then allow them to thoroughly air dry. If the invasive species can beat that, we are hopeless to stop them anyway.

 

[JackM]

Here is what the PFBC has to say:

CLEAN -- There are several ways to kill didymo. Choose the most practical treatment for your situation which will not adversely affect your gear.

Non-absorbent items

Detergent -- soak or spray all surfaces for at least one minute in 5% dishwashing detergent or (2 cups (16 oz.) or 500mls with water added to make 2.5 gal. or 10 litres); OR
Bleach -- soak or spray all surfaces for at least one minute in 2% household bleach (1 cup (8 oz.) or 200mls with water added to make 3 gal. or 10 litres); OR
Hot water -- soak for at least one minute in very hot water kept above 140° F (60° C) (hotter than most tap water) or for at least 20 minutes in hot water kept above 113° F (45° C) (uncomfortable to touch).
Absorbent items -- require longer soaking times to allow thorough saturation. For example, felt-soled waders require:

Hot water -- soak for at least 40 minutes in hot water kept above 113° F (45° C) ; OR
Hot water plus detergent -- soak for 30 minutes in hot water kept above 113° F (45° C) containing 5% dishwashing detergent; OR
Freezing any item until solid will also kill didymo.
DRY -- Drying will kill didymo, but slightly moist didymo can survive for months. To ensure didymo cells are dead by drying, the item must be completely dry to the touch, inside and out, then left dry for at least another 48 hours before use. If cleaning or drying is not practical, restrict equipment to a single waterway.

NOTE: The thicker and denser the material, the better it will be at holding moisture (and live cells), the slower it will be to dry out and the more difficult it will be to soak completely with cleaning solutions.

When cleaning equipment, we recommend that you

soak porous materials for longer than the specified times to ensure saturation with cleaning solution
choose a decontamination solution that will not adversely affect your equipment
follow manufacturer’s safety instructions when using products
dispose of cleaning waste well away from waterways
For Boats

Inspect every inch of your boat, trailer, and equipment – the hull, drive unit, trim plates, props, anchor, centerboards, paddles, wheels, hitch, chassis, etc. – and remove aquatic plants, animals, and mud from the boat, trailer and equipment before leaving any body of water;
Drain any and all water from your boat and equipment on land before leaving the area;
Do the following when away from direct drainage areas to lakes or rivers:
-- Dump any leftover bait on land, especially if the live aquatic bait has been in contact with potentially infested waters;
-- Disinfect live wells and bait wells, bilges, cooling systems, hulls, and decks with a 1:9 solution of household bleach and water allowing at least 10 minutes contact time. Rinse well to remove all residual chlorine. An easy recipe is a half gallon of bleach into a 5 gallon bucket then fill with water (or a quart of bleach to a half bucket).
Rinse your boat after use, preferably with hot water. If hot water is not available use tap water and then allow at least five days to become completely dry before entering a new water body.
Do not transport any LIVE FISH, BAIT, OTHER CRITTERS, PLANTS, OR WATER from one body of water to another.

Please help stop Didymo before it stops you!


http://www.fish.state.pa.us/water/habitat/ans/didymo/faq_didymo.htm

 

[tabasco_joe]

jayL wrote:
I don't think anything has better traction than felt, but I've never used the aquastealths. I've heard they are not equivalent.

I put them in a bleach and salt water solution, then allow them to thoroughly air dry. If the invasive species can beat that, we are hopeless to stop them anyway.

My cousin bought a pair of aquastealths and says they are now where near as good as felt. He offered to let me try them but they are two sizes smaller than I wear. I'm going to by an extra pair of felt so I have them just in case.

The high temperature water and bleach recommendations are very hard on the adhesives and materials used in waders and boots. I wash my waders and boots in warm water with mild detergent but dry very thoroughly. I have had felt soled hip boots that I left in the back of my truck stay damp for over a week. (These are only used in the Neshaminy Creek where I'm afraid the metal trash will cut my good waders.) If you are relying on drying make sure they are in a dry ventilated area for at least a week.

 

[tomgamber]

I had Aquastealths...I really liked them. No, they are not as grippy as felt but they weren't too far behind them for my still semi agile self. And I can't rememeber ever falling because of those soles. But I have also found myself sliding around on banks and in snow with felt where my aquastealths were far superior. If you are worried about slippery strema bottoms, felt is better. Everywhere else the aquastealths are better than felt. I tend to walk a lot and the AS soles were better for me. The AS boots I had fell apart and I rel=placed them with a cheap pair of Cabelas felts. I got my AS boots used and cheap. I won't spend that much on any boot.

 

[tabasco_joe]

tomgamber wrote:
I had Aquastealths...I really liked them. No, they are not as grippy as felt but they weren't too far behind them for my still semi agile self. And I can't rememeber ever falling because of those soles. But I have also found myself sliding around on banks and in snow with felt where my aquastealths were far superior. If you are worried about slippery strema bottoms, felt is better. Everywhere else the aquastealths are better than felt. I tend to walk a lot and the AS soles were better for me. The AS boots I had fell apart and I rel=placed them with a cheap pair of Cabelas felts. I got my AS boots used and cheap. I won't spend that much on any boot.

We were on Penns which is quite slippery. I could see the Aquasteaths being a better choice for the smaller streams I fish where I don't like the sound of the studs. If they were a bit lower priced I'd buy a pair to try em out.

I see Cabelas is selling out the Simms with felt soles at a large discount. They only have sizes 10 and under.

 

[tomgamber]

I will admit that Penns was one of the worst stream I ever use them on. Those basketball sized rocks that are just far enough apart that you can't hop from one to another and then are slimy to boot, gave me my biggest challenge with the aquastealths. I will also say that I have a hard time wading Penns with felt as well. But penns is an extreme in my opinion. I fished a stream last weekend with almost no slime with another board member and he couldn't keep his footing there either. If I got them again, I would go with the ones with the studs. Not the machine screws, just regular studs.

 

[tabasco_joe]

I haven't had any with the screw in studs but I was thinking about them for my next pair. I fish Penn's a lot so I want good studs. I also hike into a lot of streams on forest roads which I think does more to wear the studs than actual fishing. At this point I keep the boots with worn studs for other streams and a new pair for Penn's or similar streams.

 

[afishinado]

The dirty little secret never told in fly fishing is that you can add or take out studs on any wading boot by buying 1/4" x 1/2" or 1/4 x 3/8" sheet metal screws for pennies, and screw them in or out with your cordless drill. They don't last as long as carbide studs, but for pennies they are cheap to replace.

 

[tabasco_joe]

afishinado wrote:
The dirty little secret never told in fly fishing is that you can add or take out studs on any wading boot by buying 1/4" x 1/2" or 1/4 x 3/8" sheet metal screws for pennies, and screw them in or out with your cordless drill. They don't last as long as carbide studs, but for pennies they are cheap to replace.

The pair I have with worn studs are Korkers with the replaceable soles. They are too thin for screws. Korker changed the sole designs a couple times and I can't get ones for my boots anymore. Due to that I sort of put the screws out of my mind but since you reminded me (thanks) I'll give it a try with my new pair (Orvis) once they wear.

 

[tomgamber]

afishinado wrote:
The dirty little secret never told in fly fishing is that you can add or take out studs on any wading boot by buying 1/4" x 1/2" or 1/4 x 3/8" sheet metal screws for pennies, and screw them in or out with your cordless drill. They don't last as long as carbide studs, but for pennies they are cheap to replace.

Yeah, not really a secret. I know a lot of guys that do that but I hear them say, "lets see how many we lost today." That always sticks in my head when they say that around the car and my tires, hoping they lost them in the creek.

 

[skeeter]

I have a pair of LL bean Riverkeeper's that I have used once and they stick well but not as good as felt. No studs....yet..... but for the price I should of just got them studded. I like the Riverkeeper's mainly b.c of the design, they seem to be the only boot that has accounted for the boot surface; not only the sole. There are very few seams were things could cling too and they drain really well considering the lack of holes.

 

[afishinado]

Tom,

The screws the boot Companies use are the same as Home Depot except for the price and I believe that the Simms are a little harder (carbide) though.

Simms

Chota

 

[tomgamber]

yes, and they still fall out...

 

[fritz]

I got some aqua stealth last year. Tried them against the felts in same stream on two consecutive days. Felts won. I really got the aqua stealth for longer walks into small streams (my original intention). They are built like a hiking boot. I just bought a pair of Simms with a vibram sole--they are better than the aqua stealth and go like a little tractor up the muddy banks. I do not have studs in them yet but think I will try them.

 

[pcray1231]

I simply won't spend that much on a wading boot. When aquastealth's come down to the $50 range, then maybe I'll jump in. You're simply not going to get wide adoption until that happens.

I recently got the Cabelas (Chota look alike) wading boots, got them on sale up there. They have the easily replacable screw in studs, and a little locktite. I really like the boots, they're comfortable and the best thing is that they go on and come off easy when wet.

If I fish a stream where I think didymo is possible (rare), I soak them overnight in a bucket of water/dishwashing detergent.

 

[tomgamber]

pcray1231 wrote:
I simply won't spend that much on a wading boot. When aquastealth's come down to the $50 range, then maybe I'll jump in. You're simply not going to get wide adoption until that happens.

I recently got the Cabelas (Chota look alike) wading boots, got them on sale up there. They have the easily replacable screw in studs, and a little locktite. I really like the boots, they're comfortable and the best thing is that they go on and come off easy when wet.

If I fish a stream where I think didymo is possible (rare), I soak them overnight in a bucket of water/dishwashing detergent.

How much did you pay at Cabelas..I have their cheapest pair at over $50 bucks not...how would these compare in price for Aquastealth.

 

[greenghost]

FYI... I just lucked into a super closeout, discontinued item deal on Aquastealth boots. I picked up a pair of Rivertreads (not sure of teh name????) for $30 at the new LL Bean at Ross Park Mall. I'm not sure if they have many sizes left. But for that price I couldn't pass them up. I was just going to use them for brookie and warm water lake fishing anyway.

 

[pcray1231]

I spent $60 on sale, I consider that the $50 range . Its the most expensive pair of wading boots I've ever bought. Most of the aquastealth's and various take-offs I've seen are upwards of $80.

 

[tomgamber]

Yeah, you'd be hard pressed to find many that will last very long for less than 50 anymore. The ones I have I got for 50 are now 60...

When and if they stop making felt, the prices will probably come down. They are kind of an novelty still. I got my AS boots (now too small and falling apart) second hand on ebay so, no, I wouldn't pay that much either. I have the Cabelas ultralight ones...about 2 or 3 years now I think and they are finally starting to wear.