Studs For Weinbrenner

B

Billems

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Sep 23, 2020
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After owning several pairs of wading boots over the last decade, I decided that I needed a pair of the old Weinbrenners. I got a good deal on a pair that's next-to-new. But they don't have the studs that enable the soles to last longer. The Weinbrenner studs don't resemble the screw-ins I see on other boots. Where may I find those studs similar to what you find on the Weinbrenners?
 
I buy the replacement felt soles with studs and glue an additional layer of felt with studs on top of the
existing felt. it's best to do it before the stitching along the perimeter of the sole is worn otherwise the welt winds up splitting there eventually. I use Barge cement. two good coats on each surface allowed to dry and then i use a shoe anvil and i hammer the snot out of them. they don't fall off.
 
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Billems said:
After owning several pairs of wading boots over the last decade, I decided that I needed a pair of the old Weinbrenners. I got a good deal on a pair that's next-to-new. But they don't have the studs that enable the soles to last longer. The Weinbrenner studs don't resemble the screw-ins I see on other boots. Where may I find those studs similar to what you find on the Weinbrenners?
Click to expand...

You wont...

If I'm not mistaken, the Weinbrenner studs are snow tire studs that are basically an aluminum nail with a head and a carbide tip. As on a snow tire, when installed on a wading shoe, holes are punched through the sole, the studs are inserted though the BACK of the sole then it is glued and stitched on the boot.

The best option if you don't want to try Lars' suggestion is to install Grip Studs or a stud similar to the Guideline.

Like the factory studs on the Weinbrenner, the trick is to install them so JUST the carbide tip protrudes past the felt. Regular hex head style wading shoe studs will stick out too far and probably work loose in short order.

Good luck!!
 
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these are the replacement soles i've been using.
IMG_3302.JPG
 
I will say that after a season or two of heavy wading one or two of the studs will work their way out of the felt and fall out.
Seems to be an issue with the "poly felt" layers separating too. I usually melt the edge with a torch after i trim them to shape to solve that problem.
 
this pair has had felts with studs replaced several times
felts 3.jpg
felts 1.jpg
felts 2.jpg
 
I'm not knocking your creativity but losing the stacked heel by just replacing the sole means you are losing one of the major benefits of a Weinbrenner shoe.

That being said, where on the Korker's website are conventional replacement soles...?
 
Actually I usually do have an additional felt heel that makes it like original. on this pair i decided to just replace the sole and not remove the heel and as such they came out on the same level.
i think if you search Amazon for Korkers Studded Felt Re-Sole Kit you'll find it for around $30.
 
I was going to recommend doing the same thing as Lars has recommended, but with a couple added, or somewhat different, steps.

1. You can also find these Korker replacement felts with studs for sale on EBay.

2. I draw an outline with a felt tip marker on the replacement felt soles using the old boots as a template, and then cut the replacement felt to size before glueing it on.

3. I also use Barge cement, but tightly tape wrap the felt to the boot and let it dry, rather than hammering as Lars does.
 
I found the replacement soles on the Korkers website and noticed it says limited availability.

Knowing these manufacturers the way I do, if I was fan of this method and those soles I'd be buying up soles before they disappear...
 
seeings how i half a half dozen pairs of weinbrenners, i have several pairs of replacement soles on hand.
but yes, much like gear of old, (remember seal dri waders?) newer fangled gear is sunsetting some of the
items i use.

A quick search on eBay shows a vendor selling them (56 available / 27 sold)
 
mt_flyfisher said:
2. I draw an outline with a felt tip marker on the replacement felt soles using the old boots as a template, and then cut the replacement felt to size before glueing it on.


i also trace the outline of the boot to define the gluing area and for positioning of the studs, sometimes i remove some and put them in different locations according to the outline. i then trim the felt to the exact boot shape with an exacto knife once the sole is attached. the edge looks like from the factory.
Click to expand...

oh, i also hit the edge of the "poly-felt" with some flame to melt the edge together. i've found the
newer material they use for "felt" tends to delaminate and sealing the edge helps.
 
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