How a graphite rod is made

Interesting info about the spline. I guess I fell for the 40 year-old wives tale. Guess what I'm going to do on my next rod? I'll tell you: find and align on the spline. I'm superstitious. But I may investigate that axis notion you discussed. Maybe I'll do the spline on the butt and the axis on the tip and see how it works out. :-o
 
Jack,

I would venture to say that no matter where or how you align the guides on the rod will make a difference that you, I, or anyone else can notice when we are casting and fishing.

What rod will you be building? A Sage? Loomis? or Gatti? Which one? I suppose your using a Bellinger nickel silver reel seat, with flour grade Portuguese cork, and titanium carbide single foot guides - right? Also, I’m sure your buying an Abel or Hardy reel for the rod? - spooled with sharkskin line I’m sure.

In all seriousness, I’ve found that PacBay components to be of decent quality for the price. Rod blanks are totally dependent on what you like. I don’t think you care much about Lefty Kreh and his views, so take a look at the TFO blanks, and don’t forget St. Croix. Both make blanks are roughly the same price as Baston/Forecast and PacBay, and some are really decent.

Check this out, a Gatti G4 for $78. I've never tried one, but it may be a great rod to build.

http://www.gatti-usa.com/g4series.htm
 
I would like to build a rod for steelhead fishing, perhaps a 9'6" #7 with a fighting butt that can double as a large bass, or pike/musky rod.

One thing I would like advice on, though, is what you have found to be the most durable guides and tip tops? I have a tendency to let my line get pretty dirty and it acts like sandpaper, cutting grooves into the inexpensive guides I have on my couple rods I built and use regularly. I prefer two footed standard guides.
 
JackM wrote:
Interesting info about the spline. I guess I fell for the 40 year-old wives tale. Guess what I'm going to do on my next rod? I'll tell you: find and align on the spline. I'm superstitious. But I may investigate that axis notion you discussed. Maybe I'll do the spline on the butt and the axis on the tip and see how it works out. :-o
Click to expand...

My engineering background tells me if you can feel a difference in flex at one orientation vs. another (the spline) than it's something that should be accounted for and controlled by positioning guides at 0 or 180 degrees to the spline. It's not an old wives tale. It's at least based on theory. I haven't built enough rods to prove this and I do respect the opinions of those with the experience so I won't say they are wrong. Just that I'm skeptical.

This would make a good graduate student project for a mechanical or materials engineer. Shouldn't be too hard to model and prove one way or another.
 
Well, I have no engineering background, but I studied philosophy and my rationality tells me the same thing as you. However, I haven't built that many rods and I always located and attempted to line up on the spline and so I assumed every curveball I cast was the result of user error.
 
I’m also no engineer, but logic also tells me that it may make a difference. But logic also tells me that the amount of torque generated by the spine being 90* off is infinitesimal, when compared to the force generated to load the rod during the cast. In addtion, the weight of the guides should be more than enough to conteract the torque. To believe that enough torque is generated to cause the fly line to cast a curve would be like believing a pebble in the tread of your tire would make your wheel out of balance. Tell me you guys don'tcheck your tires for pebbles before you drive!?!

Furthermore, building on the straight axis and spining a rod may, in practice, be one in the same, since the curvature may be caused by the deviation of wall thickness in the blank. I’ve never spined and rolled the same blank to see if the mark ends up in the same place. All conjecture – but you’re mountain is my mole hill.

Jack, why don’t you build two identical rods (one for you and one for Gino) and build them both ways. God knows, the kid deserves some decent tackle anyway. If the one that’s not built with the spine lined up casts around corners….I’ll pay for it!

BTW, TiCH (titanium carbide) guides are some of the most durable. They cost 4-5 times what a chrome plated set would, but are a good investment on a decent rod that you plan to use for a long time. Buy a matching tiptop. Here is a set to give you an idea on the price. Good luck.

http://www.flyrodcrafters.com/servlet/Detail?no=142
 
Very interesting topic which has got me even more curios into building my own fly rod. This is something I've wanted to do for quite sometime but have shied away due to inexperience(as in never). Can you guys recommend any good books to pickup on this subject or perhaps some other places on the web? I have an idea of what goes into it but thats probably about as far as it goes. Thanks in advance.
 
Student,

Here are an on-line rod building instructions to get you started. Click on each segment to take you through the entire process, and look in the side bars, some steps include video instructions. You may want to start with an inexpensive rod kit and make most of your own tools. I will include several supplier links to also get you started. Good luck.

http://www.flyfisherman.com/rodbuilding/index.html

http://www.mudhole.com/

http://www.fishsticks4u.com/?src=overture

http://www.jsflyfishing.com/

Cabela's rod building kits
 
Thanks for the tips. I'm thinking of starting with a rod in the $100 range, most likely a kit and if all goes well work my way up. Thanks for the links. Any suggestions on good, quick and easy (not necessarily all 3) ways to build my own tools is much appreciated. I'm sure I'll figure it out as I go along but I'm open to all constructive ideas/criticisms.
 
StudentofTheStream wrote:
Any suggestions on good, quick and easy (not necessarily all 3) ways to build my own tools....
Click to expand...

Here are some I improvised:

Cork Reamer: sandpaper wrapped tightly around a screwdriver.

Guide wrapping: thick hard-cover book and a small coffee mug-- sit on Lazy-boy with legs extended; put cup at knees and drop thread spool inside; pull thread (in between the pages) through center of book for tension, book on lap; rest the blank on arms of Lazy-boy and spin blank to wrap.

Wrap drying: any two stable objects with a groove. Many people use a cardboard box with grooves cut in opposite sides. Turn rod 180 degrees every few minutes for about a half hour, then start lengthening the period between turns as the finish starts thickening.
 
Thanks guys. The more I dig into this, the more I'm finding out goes into it. I saw some rod building DVD's on the web I might buy to supplement all the reading. It helps to actually see how it's done. We'll see how it goes and hopefully I'll be able to post the successful rod. Thanks again.
 
http://www.flyanglersonline.com/

click in "beginners" section at the bottom ...then "Graphite rod building" if you haven't seen this its a big help...helped me...
 
Just got my rod building kit from Cabelas and it was missing the thread tensioner thingy . I'm going to call them tomorrow when I get up I can't wait till I get to build my first rod hehe :p
 
tried to post a link but I can't get it to work oh well :p
 
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