Tightline to Indicator - Rig Discussion

Schaefer406

Schaefer406

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Jul 7, 2021
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It has been a bit since I have posted on here!

I have been getting out when I can, and have recently started to almost strictly use tightline to an indicator. I am currently using a mono rig with a 15 lb butt section --> 12 lb --> 10 lb sighter. For my current system, I have mostly been using a foam indicator right above my bottom tippet ring (smaller size - think Oros), or will use a Dorsey on lower and clearer waters. I have found this to be my go to rig due to being able to reach over currents, better drifts, longer drifts, and easier depth control. Being able to cast upstream further has been highly beneficial, similar to "floating the sighter" except you are getting much better control as you recover line. I also will use a lighter mono rig with this tactic for more sensitivity, strike detection, and easier "lift" when the indy is across current seams.

So - My question for those who fish a similar rig, what are your favorite alterations/additions to a tightline rig that you have found beneficial in controlling your drifts, getting better drifts, or for reaching over current? This can be anything ranging from additions to the leader build (backing barrel, applying wax to leader, etc.) or tactics you like to use when fishing mono.

I think a lot of people largely overestimate how spooky fish are when it comes to indicators. I also think a lot of people are way too confident that they are getting a dead drift when they really aren't, and are sacrificing catching fish at the cost of "using the popular rig" aka pure tightlining.

Recent fish pictures attached for your viewing pleasure.
 

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Wouldn't using an indicator on a mono rig defeat the purpose of a mono rig?

I do not use a mono rig, but I do tighline a lot. If I had to guess I use no indicator 50% of the time, a New Zealand indicator 30% of the time and an airlock 20% of the time, typically for rough water.
 
Wouldn't using an indicator on a mono rig defeat the purpose of a mono rig?
No, it wouldn't. You can keep that mono off the water and controlled much better than the fly line. You can get a much better drift with an indicator using a mono rig.

Troutbitten talks about this....I don't like much media about fly fishing, but Dom seems legit all around.
 
Wouldn't using an indicator on a mono rig defeat the purpose of a mono rig?

I do not use a mono rig, but I do tighline a lot. If I had to guess I use no indicator 50% of the time, a New Zealand indicator 30% of the time and an airlock 20% of the time, typically for rough water.
Nope. Using an indicator helps you stay in the same lane and somewhat tight to the flies through the drift, specifically when fishing mono in heavier waters or when reaching over top of heavier current. Think - You are in a section with fast moving water in the middle, and on the other side of the fast moving water is a slower section of current or edge of an eddy that you want to drift nymphs through. It is much easier to control the nymphs with the indicator since you can lift the mono off of the water (reduces drag/current impacts) and the indy still goes straight through the seam. If you were not using an indicator, the nymphs will track to the rod tip and start to drift unnaturally, whereas with the indicator this process is delayed thus lengthening the drift in the slower water you want to fish.

The same drift mentioned above can be done with fly line and generic leader setup, but you sacrifice sensitivity and control IMO.
 
I use an indicator to fish nymphs when I can't tightline nymphs. To me an indicator is a device that lets me be able to mend my line over different currents and still be able to have a point of contact with my flies. That seems to be what you are describing above. I think maybe our definitions of techniques just aren't quite the same.

By the way, those are some nice fish.
 
I use an indicator to fish nymphs when I can't tightline nymphs. To me an indicator is a device that lets me be able to mend my line over different currents and still be able to have a point of contact with my flies. That seems to be what you are describing above. I think maybe our definitions of techniques just aren't quite the same.

By the way, those are some nice fish.
You are right - I just use the indicator on the mono rig to avoid having to mend when crossing current since I can keep all line off of the water.

Thank you! The first fish was my best this year so far, hoping for some more of that caliber coming soon. The other fish I caught this weekend on a stream that had some significant spring water input along one edge of it. I had no luck all day and then I fished right below the springs and caught 5 fish in the same riffle - pretty cool to see. Makes me wonder though - were the fish there for thermal relief already? It seems too early in the year for fish to be stacking at these inputs rather than spreading out and feeding.
 
I use the indicator on a mono rig quite often for additional reach on big streams., pretty much the scenerio Schaefer describes above. I feel like a broken record saying it again, but euro ain't just tightlining....

Yo, Schaef, I use no butt section these days and just a 30-40 yards of 12 lb Maxima to a sighter (I downsize to smaller diameter as the season progresses and water gets low or clear), to a tippet ring to the tippet. With a tippet ring, the bobber won't slip which is an added bonus.

Benefits are many over fly line: You can keep the line off the water with a high rod, and the sag is minimal even if there is sag. No fly line on the water to spook fish. A quieter and less disruptive pick up of the line at the end of the drift. And so on.
 
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I use the indicator on a mono rig quite often for additional reach on big streams., pretty much the scenerio Shaefer describes above. I feel like a broken record saying it again, but euro ain't just tightlining....

Yo, Shaef, I use no butt section these days and just a 30-40 yards of 12 lb Maxima to a sighter (I downsize to smaller diameter as the season progresses and water gets low or clear), to a tippet ring to the tippet. With a tippet ring, the bobber won't slip which is an added bonus.

Benefits are many over fly line: You can keep the line off the water with a high rod, and the sag is minimal even if there is sag. No fly line on the water to spook fish. A quieter and less disruptive pick up of the line at the end of the drift. And so on.
I have used a level leader a lot (is my usual go-to fall through winter), and it works great. The taper/butt section use is kind of unnecessary if you are only fishing nymphs since their weight is pulling leader out when you cast - The only reason I fish the taper during the spring is it helps casting if I do go tightline to dry dropper.

Correct me if I am wrong, but from my experience, the level leader has even less sag than the tapered mono rigs giving you even better contact and drifts (and tracks to the rod tip less). Mono rigs are so fun to customize as all of these little nuances help you reach a particular goal with the rig.

I also enjoy using "euro line" a good bit in the winter, where I simply will tie like 4'-5' of 12 lb mono off of the welded loop, blood knot to sighter, then tippet ring to tippet. This system works great in big water and casting is fantastic with no hangup in the guides.
 
Correct me if I am wrong, but from my experience, the level leader has even less sag than the tapered mono rigs giving you even better contact and drifts (and tracks to the rod tip less). Mono rigs are so fun to customize as all of these little nuances help you reach a particular goal with the rig.
Yes, that has been my experience too (y)
 
Makes me wonder though - were the fish there for thermal relief already? It seems too early in the year for fish to be stacking at these inputs rather than spreading out and feeding
Last week there could have easily been some stressful temps on some streams, particularly the most traditionally vulnerable ones. Flows were fairly low, for example, on some SE streams and combine those with the warm/hot days and nights in the 60’s and there could have been some temporary problems. Trout may have sought refuges and still been relatively close to those over this past weekend.
 
Tightline to indicator is a great big water solution, and also can work well when the fish are feeding a bit higher in the column. I really like the Corqs (5/8" and 1/2" specifically) indicators for this as they cast nicely and don't spook fish as badly as the big plastic bobbers. The best rule of thumb I've come to experience is that if I've been tightlining and want to make the switch, its best to drop the point fly size by a tick. (3.3 to 2.8 mm for example).

I'll always try to wade closer by first intent, but there are some great glides and runs that I need an extra 5-10 feet of reach that only the in-line tracking I get from an indy can save the drift. You can also cast and mend 12-20 lb maxima similarly to fly line to some degree, I've found that strict tightline adherence isn't fully necessary.
 
Tightline to indicator is a great big water solution, and also can work well when the fish are feeding a bit higher in the column. I really like the Corqs (5/8" and 1/2" specifically) indicators for this as they cast nicely and don't spook fish as badly as the big plastic bobbers. The best rule of thumb I've come to experience is that if I've been tightlining and want to make the switch, its best to drop the point fly size by a tick. (3.3 to 2.8 mm for example).

I'll always try to wade closer by first intent, but there are some great glides and runs that I need an extra 5-10 feet of reach that only the in-line tracking I get from an indy can save the drift. You can also cast and mend 12-20 lb maxima similarly to fly line to some degree, I've found that strict tightline adherence isn't fully necessary.
I've been messing with the Oros indicators in the extra small size (something new) for tightlining with an indicator to add distance in bigger streams. They are about the size of your thumbnail and are easy to add or take off. They make casting easy and worked well so far.

I also just switched from maxima to adams mono, mostly for visibility of the line in the air when casting. I like the way it handles so far.

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Tightline to indicator is a great big water solution, and also can work well when the fish are feeding a bit higher in the column. I really like the Corqs (5/8" and 1/2" specifically) indicators for this as they cast nicely and don't spook fish as badly as the big plastic bobbers. The best rule of thumb I've come to experience is that if I've been tightlining and want to make the switch, its best to drop the point fly size by a tick. (3.3 to 2.8 mm for example).

I'll always try to wade closer by first intent, but there are some great glides and runs that I need an extra 5-10 feet of reach that only the in-line tracking I get from an indy can save the drift. You can also cast and mend 12-20 lb maxima similarly to fly line to some degree, I've found that strict tightline adherence isn't fully necessary.
I used to really like Corqs. I haven't used them in years, but I've been thinking about buying some.
 
I've been messing with the Oros indicators in the extra small size (something new) for tightlining with an indicator to add distance in bigger streams. They are about the size of your thumbnail and are easy to add or take off. They make casting easy and worked well so far.

I also just switched from maxima to adams mono, mostly for visibility of the line in the air when casting. I like the way it handles so far.

View attachment 1641235829


I feel like @mute needs to report back on his many purchases in his quest for the perfect micro leader material!

You raised another bonus in some instances with using a bobber, a little extra weight.
 
The bobber will be influenced, pushed along, by the faster, surface currents. Not that I didn't catch lots of fish nymphing in the abysmal way I used to. I did. But I do use small bobber when I can't go direct, like in further or slower, deeper water. Or where I'd like to suspend a nymph
 
you guys are forcing this old man to tie up one of these leaders ... and i have all the ingredients ... and give this crazy #$% stuff a whirl ...

... i blame it all on Y'all.
 
I have just started experimenting with mono-rigs. I am by no means an expert, and I don't see myself becoming a hardcore euro-nympher, but I can definitely see the benefit for it in many situations and applications.

I was out the other day and stuck with it for a few hours. I learned a lot in that short time. I also netted about 10 fish by nymphing that day. I would count that as a success. However, I will still be casting lots of dries and dry/droppers with traditional fly line, too.
 
Tightline to indicator is a great big water solution, and also can work well when the fish are feeding a bit higher in the column. I really like the Corqs (5/8" and 1/2" specifically) indicators for this as they cast nicely and don't spook fish as badly as the big plastic bobbers. The best rule of thumb I've come to experience is that if I've been tightlining and want to make the switch, its best to drop the point fly size by a tick. (3.3 to 2.8 mm for example).

I'll always try to wade closer by first intent, but there are some great glides and runs that I need an extra 5-10 feet of reach that only the in-line tracking I get from an indy can save the drift. You can also cast and mend 12-20 lb maxima similarly to fly line to some degree, I've found that strict tightline adherence isn't fully necessary.
I might have to try out the Corqs when fishing fly line and nymphs. They look great but seem as if on the mono rig it might make casting a bit less accurate since it looks like it somewhat kinks the line where you wrap the leader over top of it. I could be wrong though
 
I've been messing with the Oros indicators in the extra small size (something new) for tightlining with an indicator to add distance in bigger streams. They are about the size of your thumbnail and are easy to add or take off. They make casting easy and worked well so far.

I also just switched from maxima to adams mono, mostly for visibility of the line in the air when casting. I like the way it handles so far.

View attachment 1641235829

Another great recommendation. I am going to order some of the Adams Mono now and give it a try. I have used almost entirely Maxima or Cortland Mono. Also, I use those same Oros indicators, and they work great.
 
there is a section of BFC in the narrows ... right before it flows into the deep channel. heading upstream - it starts with deep-ish rocky pocket water. lots of deep/shallow seams, fast water ( tricky wading ) ... then up from that ... it flows down through beautiful winding channels. deep ledges, lots of seams. over the years ive done ok/well through there with dries .... but this Mono Rig game would have to be perfect through there. with a couple of those tungsten perdigons you guys use ... i need to try that game.

i'll bet Jonas will have EVERYTHING i need ... what do you think?!

( btw -- one early April -- i went for a "swim" there in that exact spot. went in above that pocket water and rode her down to right before the drop into the pocket. only head and rod above water as i went along FAST... spinning. it all happened so fast. water was COLD. and i had a staff and chains on. BFC is a tricky place to wade )
 
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