Thoughts on bamboo?

AkDan76 wrote:
Tomi,

yes, Chris Carlins helping me out...unfortunately he's 400 miles away. I've spent a bunch of time with him..and have more in the near future. I also picked up his handmill and a host of other goodies!

I need to spend more time with TS while im in pa next time!
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I got a modified Payne 97 taper (varnished blank) off of Chris a couple years ago. He's top notch for sure.
 
A good place to look for quality used boo rods is classic fly rod forum classifieds. I bought a few of my rods there and felt very comfortable that I wasn't getting ripped off like I did once on eBay.
 
DavidFin wrote:
That's exactly why I'm interested. Because every time I cast something slower (glass, Winston, etc), it makes me frustrated with the faster graphite stuff I have. Not to say there isn't a place for that stuff, I think the slower stuff feels more fun, which is why Im curious about bamboo.
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Dave, I haven't read all the responses yet, but I can only imagine the variation in responses.

I've used various bamboo rods. I had a hobby of rebuilding old production rods. There is a whole lot of variation in not only weight, but action.

My smaller stream rod was (and will be again some day) a 1934 H-I that I shortened and repaired. It started life as a slow action 3 piece 8.5 ft, that people would probably call a wet fly rod. Fairly light, and slow. I used it a lot in my teens, but eventually broke the tip section right in the middle. It basically de-laminated and splintered. I glued it back together and gave it to an elderly couple that was into antiques. They had a place to display it. Well, several years later after the wife died, the guy gave it back. He wanted to make sure I got it. So I decided to rebuild it to put it back in service. After repairs and modifications, it was then about 8 foot, give or take an inch or two. But what the repairs did was made it a much faster rod (changed the taper of the tip section), which made it a great dry fly rod. It was my first rebuild and to this day, probably my best as far as appearance. I used all the best components. The truncated serrated nickle silver ferrules were over $50 a pair and that was almost 20 ears ago. Top of the line nickle silver reel seat, Rosewood insert, premium cork grip. Find Gossamer silk winding. I even put a nickle silver hook keep on it.

But the repair I made in the middle of that tip section did not hold up. But I did get to use it for awhile, and the first time out, I caught trout. That was an awesome feeling, and if that rod could talk...

Anyway, I still have it and do intend to replace the tip section. I'm sure I already have a blank that will work. I just need to make the time.

I also have a Shakespeare Spring Brook and the case is marked Bass Weight. These rods were made by South Bend. It is a 3 piece 9 foot with moderate action and I could cast a 7 or 8WF to the backing. When I got it, I paid $75 and it looked like new with two tip sections, original sock and tube.

Of course with that kind of abuse, the grip eventually disintegrated. The cork was dried out. Afterall, it was over 50 years old. I eventually rebuilt it as well and added a fighting butt. It became my go to bass and steelhead rod.

Had another Spring Brook that was not marked Bass Weight, but frankly, I couldn't tell the difference. I bought it off Ebay for about $50, but it came with only 1 tip and no sock or case. I used it for about a year while I was rebuilding the other, and then sold it on Ebay for about $75 (after repairing some wingdings. then proceeded to break the other again. :roll:

Broke the mid section flush with the ferrule. Actually that happened twice. I don't like the ferrules that South Bend used.

Then several years back, I bought a bundle of bamboo fly rod pieces, and mainly for an H-I Tonka Queen butt section. Tonka Queen is a very good dry fly rod. unfortunately I don't have a tip section for it, yet. Well, in that bundle was also a 9 foot cheap post war Japanese production rod that was intact. Actually several intact rods, but that 9 footer eventually became my steelhead rod. Weighs a lot less than the Springbrook and slower action. it was a nasty looking blank. Just milled and not planed, so it had lots of gaps. But after much work, it didn't look all that bad, and I really liked the action. I didn't get as fancy with that rebuild, and probably have less than $100 in parts.

there was an 8.5 in there of similar quality that I also rebuilt and gave to a friend. I don't think he ever used it. He's into expensive plastic, and I thin this one became a wall decoration.

Rebuilt a 9 ft Montague Clipper once. It's a cheap production rod even by Montague standards. When I rebuilt it, I used more and larger guides to bring it up to modern standards. But I didn't like how it cast. Too slow. So I sold it on Ebay. I hope the guy used it, but it is probably hanging on a wall somewhere. It looked pretty sweet with darker cane, and rose colored windings. The color is actually called Royal Hunt. Link Don't be fulled by the color chart. When using real spar varnish, it darkens the color to a rich rose color which I also tipped in black. By the way, so far my favorite color on there is the Classic Chestnut also tipped in black. Man does that look rich, especially on a medium colored rod.

There is just so much variation in rid action out there. More so than the plastic.

One year a guy on this site sent me one of his rods that he built. He does really nice work and starts from the raw cane. But I think it is just a hobby. It was at least 10 foot that he built specifically for steelhead. I was afraid to use it but he insisted. He said, if I break it, oh well. Man, there are some awesome people on here.

Anyway, it was a beautiful rod, but was the absolute slowest rod I ever casted. And I was used to some very slow rods. It took me awhile to get used to it, but I eventually caught steel on it, and sent it back with just a minor set. ;-)

I think he transitioned away from the 6 sided and into quads.

BTW, Slow is good for steelhead.

I love talking about this crap, which is why I don't visit the gear section very often.

I may have to restart that old hobby again. In addition to the two or three broken rods that need repairs, I have a few blanks ready to go. I'm getting tired of using plastic fly rods.
 
pcray1231 wrote:
Heavy, yes. Solid cane is more dense than hollow plastic, and must be made thicker to achieve similar stiffness. Fact of life. That's why most cane rods are shorter than graphite sticks.
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I don't think that is true, unless you are just talking newer rods.
 
SteveG wrote:


Most guys gravitate to bamboo because of how well they fish up close, protect light tippet, or they just enjoy the action.
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that and it looks good with my tweed jacket.

BTW Kray, I do actually have a few old silk lines. Not that new crap, but the old stuff. Hard to find any that isn't rotten, but if I see an antique reel for sale, and it has an old line on it, I'm willing to take a chance and pay an extra buck or two for the reel.;-)
 
Tack-L-Tyer wrote:
Dave, As you were'nt specific as to whether you preferred a used or new rod or just the best deal possible, keep in mind if buying used off the auction sites you definitely run the risk of getting burned with a rod that may need some expensive refurbs. Ferrule repair or replacement, sets, delamination etc. are all issues that will haunt you and drain funds quickly. There are still some deals out there but have become damn scarce. "Caveat Emptor"
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I agree 100%

When I buy one off the innertubes, I ASSUME it will need some work. If not, great. If so, well, I was expecting it anyway.

The biggest thing I look for, are all the rod sections the same length. If not? Well, you can be 99,99% sure it was broken at least once and shortened in the repair process. NEXT!

Seriously though, if you are just looking for one rod to use, and don't want any hassles, ... Buy new and try some out first.

My first fly rod was bamboo (the 1934 H-I)
 
afishinado wrote:

Boo is very durable (from breakage) for the most part. But cannot really be "fixed" at all. A new matching tip, if that's the issue, must be remade by the builder. It's best to buy a rod with multiple tips.
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Actually bamboo is, in fact, the only rod material that can be fixed if broken. If you break a rod, the splintered ends of each piece can be carefully fitted and glued back together, the end result being a strong and almost undetectable repair if done with care and skill.

Failing that, a section can be repaired by scarfing a replacement piece of blank to the original. Again, if done carefully, it is hard to detect such a repair.

Kev
 
Two great choices if looking to buy used are Bob Selb (classicflyfisherman.com) and Carmine Lisella (jordan mills rod co).
Prices are fair, sometimes excellent and both are gentlemen that know their stuff, and will guide you in the right direction. I also recommend joining the classic fly rod forum, as mentioned, good deals happen there as well as a wealth of knowledge shared.
Mike B
 
IMO, if you are only going to buy one, purchase a bamboo rod in the length that you will fish 80-90 percent of the time. If not, you are not going to use the rod. Then the other questions are: line weight, action and Hex, Quad or Penta. You will be able to find something that meets your needs for PA that will not break the bank and have fun doing it. Niche rods will follow to meet the other 10-20 percent. Most of the stream in PA I fish I use a 7’9” 4wt. but also bring an 6’ 3wt, 7’5”5wt and 8’5” 5wt. Joe E
 
I agree. Same advice I would give for a plastic rod, too.

I'm sure I told you this before, Joe.

I actually have a very old ROUND split bamboo rod. Very skinny and light (for bamboo), but very long. Can't remember the length, but it was over 9 foot. I'm thinking 10ft. 3 piece

I didn't pay much... I realize that most who know me know this is true without saying.

Anyway, I bought it off the innertubes, too. I thought it could be greenheart, but looked at it closely and could see the nodes, and that it was made with strips. Pretty sure it is 6. Been awhile since I looked at it. But someone took the time to round them.

No identifying marks, but my best guess is that it is English and from the 30s. However (if memory serves me) the reel seat looks kind of like a Chubb. Maybe late 20s. Lots of windings. I've never been able to positively identify it.

It's all there, but I have never fished it because the windings are in bad shape.

I'll have to dig it out of my stash and take another look at it. Might make a dandy bluegill rod. ;-)
 
Letort [and similar waters] buy all [any] means.
Yellowstone-forget it--too heavy to be fun---in this day and age.
Been there done that.
 
pete41 wrote:
Letort [and similar waters] buy all [any] means.
Yellowstone-forget it--too heavy to be fun---in this day and age.
Been there done that.
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I disagree. Not too heavy to be fun. But then, my arms are a little bot thicker than the fly rod. :p
 
Big Dave, that is why real men wear Tweed!!
Joe E
 
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