fist time fishing today...not as easy as it looks...

Here's a great series of videos to get you started casting:

http://howtoflyfish.orvis.com/video-lessons/13-fly-casting/234-casting-what-a-fly-rod-needs-to-do

 
My advise would be to take only the fly rod on every trip. This will force you to learn and not give up and switch to your spinning rod just to catch fish.

Your first year will be a little frustrating and really rewarding.

Also, remember some times it's easier to cut and re-tie than try to untangle a mess.
 
Were you throwing a weighted fly? It sounds like it, being you said there was such a difference from the yard to the water.

A weighted fly, depending on weight, takes a longer pause.
 
I know I started t cast a lot better when I started watching my back cast. After awhile I didn't have to watch anymore. Also when I started for some reason I thought like 10 false casts were needed every time I threw line up stream, I quickly learned one and some times none are required, while letting the stream load the rod. Keep with it I was terrible too. Hope this helps.
 
Yes. The flies I have currently are closers?? Weighted minnow like flies. Now I am working my way from nothing to light drys to someday weighted streamers again.
 
I think you have the right progression now.



 
BigRedChevy wrote:

So hears the question.
Is it normal to be completely awful your first time fishing lol?
I lol'd cause I still have some 'awful' days .... as awful as a day on the H2O can be.

Welcome to the board!
 
No day on the water is awful.

There are days where the fishing is awful. And there are days, where even an experienced fishermen performs awfully. We all have those days on occasion.
 
Knots in your leader comes from tailing loops. Which means that you are not stopping the rod on the way back, and then you start to go forward before the line had the chance to extend all the way behind you. The sound of cracking a whip come from the same thing when you accelerate the line going forward. That will snap off flies all day. You have to think about the movement, and when you bring the rod back you have to stop the rod and give the line the chance to basically unfurl all the way before you bring the rod forward. And with the size rod you are using, you are throwing some big flies so you will feel a slight tug back when the line is completely unfurled, and that is the signal to then take the rod forward for your cast. Think of a clock when you are casting back and forth. The rod in your hand should only go back to two o'clock and then forward to ten o'clock. So the rod straight up in the air is at twelve o'clock, behind you two o'clock, and then forward to ten o'clock. Your casting should be from your elbow to your wrist, with slight flicks of the wrist going back and forward. To get distance it's simple, remember, leave it high, watch it fly, leave it low, it won't go, meaning, if you leave you rod tip high when going forward, you fly will travel farther out. From the high point, the lower you bring your fly rod tip, the shorter the distance.

 
Thanks guys I think im starting to get it now. Went out today again and did some top water dries.

Started out well landed my first right off the bat (yes!) Lol but after a few casts the fly no longer floated. Is there a trick to keeping a fly floatin longer than a few casts?

Hears a pic of the monster I pulled in. Boy am I happy I bought the 8wt. Not sure what id do without it...
 
I always tell beginners 10 and 12, not 10 and 2. I'm sure "correct" is farther back than 12. But virtually every beginner is actually going farther back than they intend to.

Coming from spinning gear, fly casting seems like a bunch of contradictions. Harder, but slower. Accelerate to a stop. Jeesh. Just takes muscle memory.

But yeah, come back hard accelerating the whole way, stop high, wait longer than you think you should, come forward hard accelerating the whole way, stop high, wait longer than you think you should, drop the rod.

Videos help.
 
Congratulations on your first fish!

I don't see a picture.

To answer your question, dry fly floatant. I mostly use Gink, but since I've started tying some CDC flies, I need to get Frog's Fanny as well.
 
I mostly use Gink, but since I've started tying some CDC flies, I need to get Frog's Fanny as well.

Can I find this at like Dicks Sporting goods or should I order it off amazon.

And I found out my phones picture sizes are too large to upload.
 
Here we go. I googled how to shrink the file size. Shes a bute huh!!??
 

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Hey that's great for a first fly rod fish! I think my first 20 or so were all bluegills.
 
That's a nice first fish, BRC.

I don't know if Dick's sells Gink. I'm going to assume that it does not and it would be an item you'd have to pick up at a fly shop or online.
 
Go to an archery shop and get fletch-dry. Same stuff but slightly cheaper than Frog's Fanny: $6.50 per ounce. Also, Fumed Silica can be bought online for $15.00 per quart.
 
I found some Gink at dicks. Also picked up a fly box and a few bugs. Figured I better start looking official. I was keeping my flies in a case I use for archery broadheads at first.

With all the rain we go hammered with may have to stay away from the D this weekend. I might try a little trout fishin even tho my rods way too heavy. I got some small 2x I can tie to my leader I guess and give it a shot.

Is there any kind of cheapo 4wt combos I can find for crashin creeks and kayaks. I saw shakespeare sells a microlite for 15 bucks 7'6" 4wt. But how about the spool and line? If I can find a lightweight rig I could drop in a lake from a kayak and not care that would be ideal.
 
2x tipper is very heavy for trout, unless your throwing huge streamers for big browns... If your fishing dry flies 4x gives you a much better presentation. I know gander mtn, cabelas, and bass pro all sell cheaper rod/ reel combos that are very reasonable priced say around $100-150. And for starters they will get the job done.
 
BRC,
A real easy technique for beginning fly fishing with weighted flies is the water haul. The one thing I'll suggest is that you don't try rollcasting with a Clouser minnow or water hauling with one where the fly is pulled back in the direction of your face. If you try that and fail, you're going to be unhooking yourself.

Until you get a few more outings under your belt, water hauling at a 45 degrees angle will allow you to safely get the fly out a good distance. Make sure your line is tight, start to accelerate in the direction you want to cast. If you do it right, the cast will want to take a bunch of line along for the ride. You can easily get it ou there 30, 40 feet or more. It will help you reduce the knots in the leader or snapping off flies. You can water haul and shoot line, haul back to where you started shooting more line and the present and shoot more line. Just remember it's like a rollcast and neither will work without having tension / loading the line PRIOR to attempting the cast.

What part of the state are you in? If it's doable, I'll try to get some on water time with ya..

How to Fly Fish: How to Make a Water Haul Cast:
http://youtu.be/ZfPKL1jZDAQ

 
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