Anybody making a decent 10' 8wt?

[mystillwater]

looking for a stout rod for long casts on a lake or the occasional steelhead/salmon excursion. I tend to like slower rods but i think this one should probably be on the faster side for these purposes. if someone can point me in the right direction, i'll give them a cast and see if it works for me.

thanks!

d

 

[njk3395]

what's your price range?

 

[gfen]

I have a TFO Jim Teeny 5wt 10' and I'm thinking I'm going to add the 8wt to the arsenal next.

The downside is there's little to be said on these on the Internet, and no one has them in stock to test cast. I'm afraid my purchase is going to be blind, but I don't know how to rectify that situation.

They're definatly heavier rods, but powerful and considered fast. The tip seems to be somewhat softer, and its very sensative. I can reliably throw a tight loop with mine in just about any amount of wind I go against, and Teeny is a salmon/steelhead fisher and says the rods were designed for those species.

I've also read somewhere the TFO Clouser rods are a "refined" version of the Teeny. I don't know where, and have no way to refute or confirm that fact.

 

[tomgamber]

They also have this in a 7wt and a 9'6" 8wt...

I have the 9ft 8wt and like it a lot...I almost regret not getting the extra length...use it at the beach and in Erie.

http://www.orvis.com/store/product.aspx?pf_id=28YT_B&dir_id=758&group_id=759&cat_id=14816&scrdr=1

 

[mystillwater]

i could probably spend about $200 but i'm not gonna settle for an ok rod if another $50 will get me a great one.

i've been thinking about the Scott A3. they make a 10' and i've got another Scott that i really like.. anyone used this one?

d

 

[ryguyfi]

I second a TFO. I have the TICR in a 9'8wt and absolutly love it. I'll be tossing some streamers in a bass lake on Saturday with it and can't wait. That thing is a cannon and I also use it for steelhead. It's very stiff but just feels great in your hand. TFO makes a great rod and has a lifetime warranty. I highly suggest their line of rods.

 

[bam]

I have a 10' 7 wt Echo and like it. It's not super fast but will definately throw some lead and line out there. They're under $200 new.

I've had it since the fall and used it on steelies and bass, but if you want I'd let it go for less than what I paid. Looking to get a 7wt switch. If not, I'd at least reccomend their line of rods if you're looking for an 8wt.

 

[jcspey]

Have you consider a switch rod for your purposes. After all they are around 10-11' long. Just have the option of a second hand when your tired of single hand that long of a rod.

If you are overhead beach casting at the lakes for distance or just throw heavy stuff a switch rod could really help to get the distance and control the line while fishing or swinging a fly.

Being able to switch from one hand to two hands on my switch rod has really changed the distance I can cast, just by the added leverage of the use of a bottom hand on the rod. I use a 5wt and 6wt switch rod throwing popper, divers and weight flies for bass, panfish or pike from a boat and from the shore.

And switch rods also make good rods to nymph, indi or swing for steellies on rivers or creeks. Not to mention asist with spey cast if your into that.

Just an idea to pass along.

jcspey

 

[mystillwater]

jcspey wrote:
Have you consider a switch rod for your purposes.

interesting suggestion. i'd certainly entertain the idea. i'd have to cast one to see if its my baq but i like the idea of it.

any recommendations for switch rods?

 

[jcspey]

For switch rods, especially for overhead casting I would stick to med-fast or fast actions rods. The med fast to faster action rods definately have the advantage when overhead casting.

The slower more med or traditional action switch rod are to slow and loopy for overhead work in my opinion. These rod would be the Cabela's single hand spey rods and the Wild Water Rods. They are good rod for roll and spey, but should be avoided for overhead work. IMHO
--------------------------------------------
My recomendation of rods to look at for overhead spey and truly versitile use would be

1. St Croix Imperial Switch, around $250
-I have one and love it, fast action and really loads easily with two hands for overhead cast. Well worth the money.

2 Echo SR Switch rods, around $320
Great rod a little udifferent on the color sceme look, but make up for it in the fast, easy use action on these rods.

Their are others company like the TFO Deer Creek Rods, Reddington, Beulah, and countless others out their but the two listed about are the lower priced end that others seem to say overhead well.
-----------------------------------
I know you originally were thinking 8wt, but something to think about.

With a switch rod because of the different in lines and lines weights used on a 8 wt switch is more like a 9 or 10 wt rod in line size or weight.
For example my 6wt switch for overhead throws a 300 grain head, that weigh is almost the same as a 10 single hander.
You may find depending on what you target is that a 6-7 wt may be closer to what you need.

Switch rod are just plain fun and a new kind of rod to add to our arsenal and require a little learning curve to full utilitize them.

hope this helps

jcspey

 

[mystillwater]

didn't think about different lines. my issue is i already have a reel and a couple of 8wt lines i'd like to utilize. that may keep me locked in to a traditional one-handed rod.

 

[Pontus]

Redington makes a 10'8wt but it's a little out of your price range. It'll run you $330.
Redington CPX

Cabela's Traditional II is on sale and comes in a 10'8

 

[jcspey]

mystillwater wrote:
didn't think about different lines. my issue is i already have a reel and a couple of 8wt lines i'd like to utilize. that may keep me locked in to a traditional one-handed rod.

Just for what its worth, a 6wt switch rod works well with a standard WF8F line of most tapers, but really shine with steelhead or Rio Grand or Outbound style tapered lines.

Because switch rod are normally line rated by spey line ratings the line are normally heavier than single hand rod lines.

In practice because of this, traditionally most guides and people recomend over lining a spey line rated or (modern style) switch rod by 1 or 2 line sizes, from what written on the rod. So the 330 grain head of a 8 wt line puts you right in the middle of the grain window of a 6 wt switch rod.

All that said their are a few rod makers that still use single hand ratings on switch rods.

jcspey

 

[Ramcatt]

your goal is longer casts... right?

buying a longer and heavier rod is not a good solution... casting lessons would be a better use of your time and will cost half as much as a new rod

 

[gfen]

FWIW, I came home with the last Cabela's LST switch rod in stock today. $50 off sale, plus a $20 discount. Couldn't pass it up. It was the 11'3" 6wt.

Shame I don't have a damned clue what I'm doing with it, at this point I can only do a very tortured single hand overhead, but whatever. It was dirt cheap.

FWIW, the Bargain Cave is loaded with their older Fish Eagle (?) spey rods. They're not printed on, but are labeled. These are all true spey rods, 13-15' and in the heavier weights. They were dirt cheap ($75, I think). Rumoured to be St Croix rods, YMMV.

 

[mystillwater]

Ramcatt wrote:
your goal is longer casts... right?

buying a longer and heavier rod is not a good solution... casting lessons would be a better use of your time and will cost half as much as a new rod

not necessarily. my primary goal is being able to get more line off the water for winter roll-casting and nymphing. my secondary goal is to get line off the water easier while sitting very low to the water in my kayak. any extra distance would be appreciated but not necessary.

 

[jcspey]

FWIW I have one of the LST Cabelas 11'3" 6wt and love it. It took a little getting use to it. I found a few lines if that work on it if you need that info, let me know.

As for long rod not just for distance, but roll cast, nymph and a little extra distance when riding low on the water a longer rod like 10' or a switch rod is the way to go.

The longer rod does help hold the line up off the water and keep the back cast above the water better.

As for roll cast and nymph work, the switch rod or just a longer rod really help with mending, and controlling the swing or drift. The longer length of the rods aplifies the movements and allows easier line casting and management.

Even though any rod of any length can be spey cast, a switch rod or spey rod makes it easier because of having two hands on the rod.

Spey cast are no more than either excelerate roll cast or back cast under the rod tip that touch the water for a moment before that forward cast. They make change of direction cast a one cast move from point a to point b.

jcspey

 

[gfen]

I'd love to know what you've got, actually. I completely forget about lines, so I've been using a lackluster 6WFF, and tried my 5WFF and 5WF sink tips on it.

I have no clue how to properly two-hand overhead cast, I only did a little light reading. Previous to this, my longest was the 10' 5wt, which I enjoyed.. I'm not sure if I'm better or worse with the extra 1 1/4' on the end, but I do know it does get tiring trying to huck it singled handed after awhile. Then, you're not supposed to.

I do like it though, but I'd still wish it was the 8wt to better augment my line. Guess I'll see what happens with the LST speys in the future, and if they come back to the catalogue or not.

Did take my first fly rod smallie on it, on the other hand it was about 5". Seemed a bit silly.

 

[jcspey]

As for lines for the LST Spey 11'3" 6wt spey:

IMHO I have found while using it that it has a grain weight window from 180 - 330 or so.
"A grain window defines the grain carrying capability of a fly rod blank under line load, inorder achieving a correct and balanced rod/line marriage." paraphrased from Bob Meiser. The lower end is single hand overhead, the middle is scandinavian style or two hand overhead and the high end is skagit casting/long belly lines. That said here is a list of line that I have found work for me.

A Steelhead taper WF6 or 7- all around roll, spey casting,nymph, high sticking and will overhead well. The only draw two drawbacks to steelhead tapers that I have encounter is that because they have a long head (58'-70') they take some getting used to, and the require a bigger d-loop then short head lines do.

A Royal Wulf Ambush line - This is a new line out specially designed to single hand or switch rod spey cast. It has a short 20' head, so it easy to position for the cast, then roll or spey cast it to shoot the distance need. You can do any kind of spey cast with it skagit, or spey styles. Make it a good learning line. It can be overhead cast but because of the taper style with the weight in the back of the head for speycasting, it tends to dump early on the forward cast. I use this line and love it i also use this line on my 7'6" 4/5 rod for speycasting for trout in smaller waters.

A Rio Outbound Short WF6 or 7- This line is a shooting head with running line attached. This is a knock out for overhead to gain distance from shore, kayak or float tube. These lines are over weighted for their line class to make it easier to achieve distance.

I also use a shooting head system with a AFS 4/5 Scandi Head and a Rio Skagit Short Head in 275 or 325 depending apon the sinktip used and how big the fly. But it get to be TMI to get into all these.

To summarize i would recomend getting the Ambush line for spey or roll casting and get an Outbound for overhead or distance work.

As for it seeming silly to catch the little ones on it consider it practice while casting for the 15"er or the 22" rainbows you may catch on it one day.

Jcspey
.

 

[Ramcatt]

i am still dumbfounded when i read of people overhead casting a 2hander... even switch rods.

the most unpleasant part of my day with a 2hander is getting the head out of the rod while single handing

if you are having problem clearing/getting distance out of an outbound, sink, or shooting head line with a standard 9' rod... i think a lesson on tech and hauling is in order rather than a rod that will be even more difficult to cast and cause more fatigue when trying to overhead with improper tech

are you getting tired because you are making too many cast? and are these casts being made with too much line out?


JCSPEY
spey casts are not roll casts