gear for salmon and chromers?

daman1277

daman1277

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So what does everyone use for backing, line, leader and tippet when you fish salmon and or steelhead? Looking for name brand and lb test rating if available.
 
Backing= Cortland #20 Micronite
Lines= Wulff Triangle Taper
Leaders= Airflo Poly Leaders, Rio VersaLeaders models for{Salmon/Steelhead}
Maxima Chameleon/Maxima Ultragreen for regular Chuck N Duck Leaders with a Amnesia in two different colors section for a stike indicator for when the water is rippin an off color.
Drennan is also a great choice an strong.
Very seldom use Flourocarbon its brittle an expensive, and Maxima has ruled the Great Lakes roost since its introduction decades ago.
Don't try an fix something if its not broken keep it K.I.S.S.!

When Salmon are around from late August till mid October prefer to use a 9 weight medium/fast action rod. IMHO Fast action rods have no business being used in most cases they just wind up exploding during a fight because they are too fast an brittle.wind up with a bunch of graphite splinters. Kings depending on condition are really brutes an the 9 weight really controls them..hell I know some guys who actually use 10 weights an then switch to 9 weights beginning of October then switch the middle of October to 7 weight rods for Steelhead and Browns. To each his/her own.

Might as well get a true flyline if you want to fish the fly zones because thats the rule now..no more running lines in the flyzones .Lines must be tapered.Also the weight regs have changed no longer can you use anything more than a 1/8th of an ounce of lead for weight in the flyzones. I knew this was coming an the reason i changed to Poly leaders and have since enjoyed learning their use..I catch just as many fish as i did when i Chucked N Ducked.
When Kings are around i use #10 Maxima for tippet, Later on i use #8 or #6.
 
Lonewolve wrote:
Backing= Cortland #20 Micronite
Lines= Wulff Triangle Taper
Leaders= Airflo Poly Leaders, Rio VersaLeaders models for{Salmon/Steelhead}
Maxima Chameleon/Maxima Ultragreen for regular Chuck N Duck Leaders with a Amnesia in two different colors section for a stike indicator for when the water is rippin an off color.
Drennan is also a great choice an strong.
Very seldom use Flourocarbon its brittle an expensive, and Maxima has ruled the Great Lakes roost since its introduction decades ago.
Don't try an fix something if its not broken keep it K.I.S.S.!

When Salmon are around from late August till mid October prefer to use a 9 weight medium/fast action rod. IMHO Fast action rods have no business being used in most cases they just wind up exploding during a fight because they are too fast an brittle.wind up with a bunch of graphite splinters. Kings depending on condition are really brutes an the 9 weight really controls them..hell I know some guys who actually use 10 weights an then switch to 9 weights beginning of October then switch the middle of October to 7 weight rods for Steelhead and Browns. To each his/her own.

Might as well get a true flyline if you want to fish the fly zones because thats the rule now..no more running lines in the flyzones .Lines must be tapered.Also the weight regs have changed no longer can you use anything more than a 1/8th of an ounce of lead for weight in the flyzones. I knew this was coming an the reason i changed to Poly leaders and have since enjoyed learning their use..I catch just as many fish as i did when i Chucked N Ducked.
When Kings are around i use #10 Maxima for tippet, Later on i use #8 or #6.


Good info above about rigs. Don't know about "exploding" fast action rods though. Those hold seem to hold up well SW fishing for really big, really tough fish. I've seen quite a few salmon guys up there fishing, and many have a lot to learn about fighting and landing big fish. Operator error?!

 

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Afish,
Saltwater is entirely diffrent area of Flyfishing compared to Great Lakes Tribs Salmonid fishing.

#1 There is plenty of room for a backcast when fishing Saltwater.Great Lakes you rarely have backcast room because of the crowds,vegetation ect.

#2 The number of fish caught over 15 pounds during the fall run and landed on the G L Tribs far out numbers the Saltwater fish during the fall. I am not saying Saltwater fish are small but the number of Striper/Bluefish/Albacore fly caught fish that are over 15 pounds are not even in comparison to the GL tribs.Sure there are schools of them but be honest when you have fished Saltwater a whole season how many fish did you land that were that big.How many guys post pictures of their success in comparison?

#3 Fast Action Rods are great tools for specific purposes specifically Long Casts and or Windy conditions. Unless you fish the Niagara River {I do}, the Gennesee River { I do},or the Cattaraugurus Creek where wind may be a factor in the individuals ability to present flies while fishing holding lies or fishing the water.; a fast action rod is a waste of money and a bad tool for Great Lakes Trib fishing. YMMV!

#4 I have broken three rods in over 20 years of flyfishing, of these three , two were broken by me , slid down a severely muddy trail an fell on a rod while doing a header.The other was while i thought i had the rod in its sock far enough down the tube an was puttting the cap on when i heard a sick "click" reopend the cap an had broken the tip. The third rod was broken while setting a hook on brown at Spring creek an redirected the set ..the rod broke about 8 inches above the ferrule . I have never had an operator error breakage ever.

#5 I have seen far too many rods come into Malinda's and Whitaker's , and every case they were Saltwater fast action flyrods.
 
I agree with afishinado 100%. Saying fast action rods have no business on salmon river is simply silly. No wind? Were you there last Saturday? I was and it was blistering. You think volume of fish cause failure versus sheer size? Ten 25 lb mud sharks is more stressing to a 9wt than a 60 lb tarpon? I suggest that repetition of catch will have zero impact on a modern graphite rod. I also suggest that your limited sample size of broken rods is a simple reflection of market share owned by fast action rods.
 
I've heard the fluorocarbon "brittle" story before. I do one trip/year for steelhead usually in December so it's not like I have a ton of experience but I'm not seeing brittle. Last year I used Seaguar and yes, it is expensive. However any knot breaking I attributed to my own dumbness. Anyone else seeing the brittle factor?
 
Lonewolf,


You obviously know an awful lot about salmon and steelhead fishing and your advice about equipment and rigs are right on. But, I highlighted this statement by you:

"Fast action rods have no business being used in most cases they just wind up exploding during a fight because they are too fast an brittle.wind up with a bunch of graphite splinters. Kings depending on condition are really brutes an the 9 weight really controls them.."

"The number of fish caught over 15 pounds during the fall run and landed on the G L Tribs far out numbers the Saltwater fish during the fall. I am not saying Saltwater fish are small but the number of Striper/Bluefish/Albacore fly caught fish that are over 15 pounds are not even in comparison to the GL tribs.Sure there are schools of them but be honest when you have fished Saltwater a whole season how many fish did you land that were that big.How many guys post pictures of their success in comparison?"

Remember, salmon and steelhead fishing is very localized and happens in a very short time period. SW fishing is huge, the ocean covers 75% of the planet, and not just in the in the northeast where we live fishing in the fall.

Salmon/kings ARE tough fish but twenty seven and half gajillion SW fish as big or a lot bigger are landed every day on these type of rods. They are not loaded with TNT ready to explode. These rods in the hands of an experienced is capable of landing a huge fish in salt or freshwater.

From your posts, I'm positive you are a knowledgeable and experienced FFer and I have no doubt the number of neophyte and once or twice a year Salmon guys outnumber you 10 to 1. Many of the GL trib anglers have very little experience fighting and landing huge fish. You're up there all the time.....not true?

Anyway, good advice overall. My only disagreement is that a SW rod can't handle King salmon, that's all.
 
Afish,
A saltwater rod can work up there but its not necessary or as good a tool for a job.Kinda like using a deer rifle for squirrells.He asked about equipment , rigs ,and such. I was just passing on my experience. As for the fluorocarbon... Hands down Maxima has been at the forefront , was there way before fluorocarbon, Also it does not have the abrasion resistance that Maxima does.Flourocarbon is still not as good as Maxima.
I use Seaguar in Saltwater from Maine to Jersey chasing stripers/blues/false albacore.For Saltwater its the cat's meow,Btw i have also used Maxima too. For regular Trout in streams/creeks/lakes/brooks/rivers I do like Flouro for nymphing and streamers. For Dry flies i prefer mono.Your mileage may vary.
I have spent alot of time up on the Lakes true, All i was trying to do is save someone from ruining a trip. Gear i have recommended will work here and anywhere Steelhead be it Anadromous or Pota Anandromus or Salmon be it Atlantic or Pacific species.
 
just got back from the Salmon.

K.I.S.S. most spots your chucking and ducking. There's some areas you can really toss some line and swing streamers. Just depends on the type of fishing you want to do.

any 30lb backing
9-10wt rods while the salmon are there.
leader= heavy butt section about 1 ft (50lb), small section afterwards (25lb), then a swivel, then tippet of flouro in 8-12lb. I found some basic spinning flouro called "vicious fishing" and rarely broke a fish off the whole weekend that I didn't try to. About $10 a spool.

bring LOTS of split shot. Most of my guys ran out even after my warnings, and they don't sell lead in NY.


just have fun.

 
I dunno, I have used my Colton 9wt. a few times up there now. It is a fast action rod, and I consider it a Salt rod. I put the wood to those kings, and never felt like the rod would break. I fished the mouth of a certain creek Sunday before I came home, in the pouring rain and 25mph winds. Mist have been imagining the winds though, because LW says they are not there.
 
Ideal all around rod for salmon and steelhead is 10ft 7 or 8 wt with soft tip to protect tippet and strong butt to turn the fishes head. I pop too many fish off with fast rods, so i don't use them. No need for 9 wt our higher if the fish are hooked fair. I have caught many kings in early sept (still silver) with a 7 wt. Unless you are fishing white water in the sr in 1000 plus cfs flows, a 7 wt is plenty if you are hooking fish fair and know how to play them. Leave the 9wts in pa, no tuna sticks in NY!!!
 
If you use a 7wt up there for kings, you're going to get your butt whooped. Yes it can be done, but it is far from ideal IMO. Had 1 guy in our group use an 8wt last weekend and was going into the fetal position every time he was fighting a fish expecting his rod to break and have pieces come flying back at me.
 
I've been using an 8wt Scott S3S the past few years for salmon & steelhead. Most of the guys I fish with all use 9.5-10ft 8wts.
The 13 year old that was up with us last time broke his custom 10' 8wt high sticking it last year. I did some surgery on it and it suprisingly held up to the 18 kings he landed on Saturday. The builder who wrapped it was sure it was going to explode on him.
I'd personally go for a 9wt, a 7wt for steelies. But the 10wt I have is way too much to cast all day.
 
i use my echo 3 ten weight which is lighter.. than my orvis clearfwater 8 wt. with a nautilus ccf 8.
 
Gear for salmon / steelhead? Hmm, some 10' 7wt Cortland crap model that I picked up on the way to the SR. Konic reel with a $7 fly line also purchased at the Cortland outlet. I also have a 9' 8wt Loomis GL2 with a Redington AS and another $7 fly line.

Rod casting performance for lobbing a SR midge: n/a

Quality of fly line needed to floss: n/a

The most important things to have for steelheading is good reel with drag, backing, beer and pre-paid appointment for psychological exam so you can discuss WHY you would ever drive 5 hours to steelhead fish.

 
If it is only a little over three hours, do I need a psychologist?
 
Shane,

Yes...even if you liked on the banks of the SR. LOL
 
Fishing for Kings with a 8 wt can be done. I use a G.Loomis GLX Native Run 10'8 wt and a Sage XP 10'8 wt. for Kings. That said, I wish I had a bigger stick. I will be buying a 9 or 10 wt. for next years Salmon run. I love the comment above, as I've waited for those 8's to explode a couple of times on big Kings and had them bent into the cork. A 7 wt... no way. Not saying it can't be done but even the weight of some Kings it's awfully hard.

For Steelies, I like a fast rod with a soft tip to give me light tippet protection. I also like a 10' rod for the same reason as well as mending and high sticking ability. I use a Sage VXP 7100-4. It I'm fishing stained water where I can run a little bigger tippet, I go with the 10' 8 wt. to give me the power to land them faster. I don't want hook ups, I want it on the beach!

Cheers,
Mike.
 
I've gone as light as 6X tippet for steelies using Maxima chameleon. I haven't used flouro, but I use it for trout, and it is definitely not brittle as someone said. But it is not susceptible to abrasion like copolymer mono.
 
only thing to keep in mind it's exactly like trout fishing, but for bigger trout. There's no real need to toss tons of lead for steelhead... if you were fishing a glo bug on spring creek how would you present it? Why use flouro for local trout but maxima for much larger fish? For me, I use flouro nymphing for both trout and steelhead because I will take the advantage of the fish not seeing it as easily, if it's bs then why switch? You either drink the kool aid or you don't unless your just lining the **** out of them...

have fun
 
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