dry fly sinking

U

UraFish

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May 4, 2011
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Why is my adams #16 sinking?
 
It is eventually inevitable. First put on some dry fly floatant (gink) before you start fishing. After a fish or two it will get water logged and sink. Then apply a dry shake, or use the blow method. No matter what you do, it will sink eventually. Just try to delay it as much as possible with the above methods.
 
The fly was brand new? First cast it sunk... anyways, what is this floatant called so I can order some...
 
It is inevitable if you don't put floatant on it or dry it out occasionally, however all you have to do is dab it on your shirt to dry it then apply Gink (that is the name of the stuff you are looking for).
 
If you bought the fly, it's possible it's just a crappy fly tied with crappy materials and just plain old sucks. If you tied it, then I'm sorry lol.

Here's a link to the products above. You should be able to get these at any place that has fly fishing products.


gink

frogs fanny



If your fly has any form of cdc on it, DO NOT use the first one. It will reverse the natural waterproofing of the cdc. Basically for all other dries, put the gink liquid on before fishing, and dunk and shake in the dry stuff to get it floating again after it sinks. This should help.
 

Check your closest female's makeup table for Albolene, which in smaller and much pricier containers is called Gink. With this, you can curtail the inevitability of the sink.

 
ryguyfi wrote:

If your fly has any form of cdc on it, DO NOT use the first one. It will reverse the natural waterproofing of the cdc. Basically for all other dries, put the gink liquid on before fishing, and dunk and shake in the dry stuff to get it floating again after it sinks. This should help.

This goes for flies w/ snowshoe hare as well.
 
^
|
sez you.
 
Even new flies need treated with floatant to stay on top well IMO.
And once you catch a fish or 2, they need to be dried out again.
I like the shaker desicants for that
 
If it sank on the first cast, it might be the casting technique, too. make sure you stop your rod up high (2 o'clock) so that the fly isn't smacked onto the water forcing it through the surface tension.

 
Agree with all of the above, but to add more.

Drag will often pull a fly under, nomatter how good a fly and how much floatant you have. It gets harder to avoid this in heavy riffs.

A lot of times, a well tied fly, dressed properly with floatant, will resurface, or can be pulled back to the surface and float again after a current/drag induced dunking.
 
Water logged anything will generally sink. another good thing to have is a samado patch. It is good for CDC. the samado is like a sponge that pulls the water out of the fly. Then use a powder to dry if you are using CDC, snow shoe etc.... For traditionals use the samado, powder blow off and add some more floatant. I found with the samado I can generally catch 2-3 fish with a CDC pattern before I need to change and let totally dry.
 
an old timer on Oil told me he dressed his flies with gink hours before entering the stream. I usually rig up before walking to the water and have no issues, but I wonder, does ginking hours before help that much more??
 
No fly should sink on a first cast even if you don't use floatant. I use loon outdoors floatant. Gink is also popular. Give the fly a good shake in the air, if you've caught a few fish with it, clean it by dipping it in the water, and shake it really well and blow on it if necessary. I know some guys that carry a small towel with them to dry flies before treating them again. But always re-treat your fly if it starts sinking, or put on a new fly and let the first fly dry out. Never go with one fly of a pattern.
 
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