Regarding Brook Trout...

Big-Bass

Big-Bass

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What rod/reel do you guys use to catch brookies in streams no wider than 40 feet? I found a few streams near me that look promising and do hold some native brookies. I want something that does not cost too much because the trek in can be kind of rough and I do not want to worry if I break a tip. Anyone have anything used that they are willing to part with that would suit my needs? Any suggestions as to what to get on sale or for cheap? Thanks!
 
I use a 7'9" 2 weight for just about all of my brook trout fishing. Most of the streams I fish are fairly wide open, and I have no problem casting that length rod on them.

However, I do have a shorter rod - 6" 3 weight - that gets used on the smallest, brushiest streams. But I rarely fish water like that any more
 
Any reel that's intended for fishing for native brookies is, if we're being honest, is really just there to hold line. I mean, this is the case with most trout, especially in our part of the world, but especially so with native brookies.

Go with something that's inexpensive but has good customer service behind it in case something does go wrong with it.

The Redington Crosswater, for instance, is $39 and is more reel than you need.
 
My brookie rod is a 363 coupled with a click and ball large arbor 2/3.
 
Cheap cabelas combo. I have a 7.5' 5 wt and it has taken 4 years of abuse on exactly the kind of streams you describe. I did break a line guide this year by whacking it full-speed into a branch during a roll cast but I still use it. if you just want to fish for brookies with dries you can easily get away with a 3 wt, but if you are a streamer guy like me you might want a 4 or 5.
 
I too use the "cheaper" Cabela's rods for brookies, primarily the Three Forks 7'6" 3-weight, but also a TQR 7'6" 4-weight for bigger waters and a TQR 6' 5-weight for brushy streams, and uber cheap walmart rods as backups...a Shakespeare Micro Graphite 7' 4-weight and an Eagle Claw Featherlite 7' 5/6 weight.

Reels, I have most of them fitted with older Pflueger Medalist/Purist reels, with the TQR 4-weight wearing an old Cortland Crown II and the Eagle Claw wearing an SA Concept 58. Line on all of them is a Cortland 333+ DT.
 
The cabelas combo for $69 will be able to handle 20' casts and 5" fish (link below)

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishing/Fly-Fishing/Fly-Fishing-Rod-Reel-Combos|/pc/104793480/c/104721480/sc/105571980/Cabelas-Wind-River-Combo/1342342.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Ffly-fishing-rod-reel-combos%2F_%2FN-1102570%2FNs-MIN_SALE_PRICE%3FWTz_l%3DSBC%253BMMcat104793480%253Bcat104721480%26WTz_stype%3DGNU&WTz_l=SBC%3BMMcat104793480%3Bcat104721480%3Bcat10557


If you would like to step up the quality and don't mind spending a few dollars more, add a nice silk line to this combo and for a mere $1200-1500, you will be ready to battle those 3"-5" natives.

http://www.galvanflyreels.com/brookie_reels.html

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/schliske-bamboo-fly-rods-big-t-handmade-fly-fishing-rod-76-4wt-2-piece-spare-tip~p~3292r/?filterString=fishing-rods~d~190%2F&colorFamily=02


Guess what iI'm saying is any rod will work for this type of fishing. You can even use an old tuna can to hold your line. These fish will rise to a stick, leaf or cigarette butt so make sure you are up for the challenge.
 
i have an llbean quest II in a 6'6" 3wt. i got the rod, reel, and line together for $100. it's a good rod for the price, but i wish i would have bought the 7'6" instead. for a reel, you really dont need anything of good quality, because the only purpose it will serve is holding line. for rods, i have found a 7' or 7'6" to be the most effective on small streams, though a 6'6" or 8' does have its niches. weight of the rod(and length for that matter) is really just personal preference. some anglers like a 5 weight rod to be able to punch their fly through a brush tunnel, and some anglers just like the feel of casting a small 2 wt, and being able to actually fight 6" trout.
good luck with your search,

Evan

 
This has been discussed a lot in the "6 ft 2wt for a small stream rod" thread.

I recommend a 7 1/2 ft, 4 wt rod.
 
I literally tried dozens of rods for small stream fishing, and I settled on a 7'6" 4 weight loomis trilogy. I've never had trouble casting any fly with it whether it's a dry fly or weighted fly. I seen guys using lighter rods many times, and they just can't get the fly placed exactly in the right spot.
Most of the time it doesn't mater, but on those occasions when there's a large root wad at the head of a pool where the tree is leaning over, or the branches are low, you need a precise cast to get it there. A 7'6" 4 weight will do that, many of the lighter and shorter rods will not.
But I still think I want a 6'6" 3 or 4 weight.

ps, I used to use a 9' 6 weight rod on small streams till I built the rods I have.
 
.....you need a precise cast to get it there. A 7'6" 4 weight will do that, many of the lighter and shorter rods will not.

I'm sorry, but this is B.S., it's not the rod that makes the cast.


To the OP, not sure how accurate your sense of distance is, but a " 40' wide stream" is pretty good sized water, like Penn's or the Little J, the Breeches for the most part runs only about 20' across from bank to bank...when thinking of your typical brookie stream, most are gonna be 15' wide or less, some have more room to cast than others and for the most part a 7' rod will cover your needs on these streams. Long enough to handle the line like you want, short enough to not be cumbersome when things get tight. And a 4wt is a nice middle ground, not too specialized, do it all line wt. Enough to deliver a weighted fly, or a multi fly rig when desired, but not too heavy so you can let the little natives show off a bit while playing them.
 
I agree - the lLittle Lehigh is maybe not 40' either. For a river that size you want a 4 or 5 weight - on a calm day I use my bamboo 7'6" 4wt for dry flies n emergers. If I'm deep nymphing, using streamers or it's windy I use a fast action 9' 5wt.

I like Greys, Redington and Echo rods in the mid price ranges.
 
Eagle claw featherlight 5/6 wt 7' with any old reel is fine. They are dirt cheap and much sturdier than graphite. You can leave them in your trunk without a tube all strung up and ready to go.
 
I have an old 6'6", 4-wt. Orvis rod that I like for little brooks. I think it helps keep me from constantly hooking up with the canopy. But, really, just about any short rod ought to do for the little brush-lined brooks. If you are a lot smarter than I am about online stuff, maybe you could find an inexpensive gem on ebay. Good luck.
 
tulenkot wrote:
Eagle claw featherlight 5/6 wt 7' with any old reel is fine. They are dirt cheap and much sturdier than graphite. You can leave them in your trunk without a tube all strung up and ready to go.

This. I have mine w/ an old Martin 66 (Tuna can), and tomitrout is right. It's the caster, not the rod, that will make precision casts in tight spots.

Krayfish is right. It ain't the type of fly that makes this fishing challenging. It's getting to the fish w/out them knowing it. Tight casting quarters, keeping a low profile, being willing to hike in a distance, it's all part of the fun. Once you're there, chuck your cigarette butt flies and have a blast!
 
tulenkot wrote:
Eagle claw featherlight 5/6 wt 7' with any old reel is fine. They are dirt cheap and much sturdier than graphite. You can leave them in your trunk without a tube all strung up and ready to go.

also, yes! plus, they are simply fun, although a little too fast for my liking! ;-)
 
Aw yeah!!! looks like we should start an Eagle Claw fan club...
 
those eagle claws can be good for brookies: 7' is a good length for very small streams, and they are cheap, when gear can get hurt brookie fishing.

I've only had 7' eagle claws, but amazon shows a 6'6" eagle claw 3/4 weight. .. ...
 
I'd really like to try out one of the 6'6" models, in addition to the 7' 5/6-weight I also have an older (~5 years) Black Eagle 8'6" 5-weight, and that is a REALLY sweet rod for the price ($25 at Walmart). The only thing I really don't like about most Eagle Claw rods: down-locking reel seats...but that's more or an aesthetic thing for me.
 
I didn't read the whole thread, so forgive me if I'm repeating.

#1: 40 ft is a reasonably large stream. If the stream is truly this large, I'd likely take a 8 or 9 ft 5 wt.

#2: For most "brookie streams", which in my mind are 5-20 ft across and often pretty thick, I prefer about a 7'6" rod in as large a weight as you can find, overlined. I use a 7'6" 4/5 wt loaded with 7 wt line. Purpose of a stout (fast) rod is for throwing tight loops through often tight places, and the need to generate a lot of power with a simple "snap" motion. The reason for overlining is because line weights are based on the assumption of a certain length cast, which you'll almost never meet on these streams. In my way of thinking, matching a 4 wt rod with a 4 wt line is then UNDERLINING, because you're not throwing nearly as much line weight as that 4 wt rod was designed for. So, for instance, putting a 7 wt line on a 4/5 wt rod is actually properly lining it, provided you don't intend to cast anywhere near the assumed distance.

Don't spend too much as these rods tend to take a beating.

And if the stream is really, really thick, then shorter rods come into their own, especially for just easing the movement from hole to hole. Long rods suck to walk with in thick areas. For length, the rule of thumb is "as long as you can get away with and still feel comfortable walking/casting, but not longer".
 
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