Studs for Simms Vibram Soles

kyle1248

kyle1248

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Apr 12, 2010
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Hey guys which studs would you recommend for a pair of vibram soled Freestone Boots? I wasn't sure if I should go with the aluminum studs or the star ones? Please let me know your opinions thanks!
 
Kyle,
My understanding is that the Carbide star cleats are for slimy slippery and rock bottoms,while the Alumi bite cleats are for granite and cleaner bottom rocky rivers.IMHo if it were me get a bag of each and mix em up a lil some Freestoners can still be very algae/slippery free.Meanwhile the darn Limestoners and the regular rivers get kinda slick.
Tight Wrasp & Tight Lines
Rick Wallace
P.S. please post a report when you have made a decision and after you have used them a few times on different waters.would be great to see what you think.I prefer Carbide like in my studded/felt Borger/Weinbrenners.
 
I have the carbide star ones in my Simms "Headwaters" boots. 20/pack at $20 is pricey but I really like them. On advice I put five in the front and three layed out like a triangle in the back/each boot. Later on I added the other two about midway. This is my third year wearing them.

Mixing them up may not be a bad idea as they can be a bit slick on large, smooth rocks.
 
Thanks for the opinions. I primarily fish all over SE PA so a fixture of limestoners, some slippery freestone streams and occasionally a trip to the big Lehigh. I was hoping to not have to buy packs of both as they seem pretty expensive but I will probably order something this week and post my findings afterwards. Thanks for your opinions.
 
I started out with just the star cleats. It wasn't cutting it for me so I then added the studs. I used the same pattern that is on the Simms website. It still isn't the greatest grip, but it has been functional. I really miss my old Aquastealth soles, thanks a bunch Simms for switching to Vibram :-x
 
Has anyone tried those hardbite star cleats from simms?
 
I fished the vibrams without any studs for one year before they started to wear down, now I have just the studs. The standard hard bite studs (no cleats) are more than enough.
After all, how much more metal do you want on the bottom of your shoes?
I'd try those before deciding you need the cleats.

 
I use the star cleats and find they work just fine. I think I'm going to pick up a pair of Simms new wet wading shoes and put the star cleats on them as well.

Can't wait to get out, and stay out, of these waders until fall rolls around. Just a few more weeks ....
 
Dear kyle,

Carbide is a marketing ploy. Say things like "hardened", "carbide", "reinforced", etc, etc, and you have a license to charge $ 30.00 for what can be accomplished with $ 2.00 worth of 1/4" sheet metal screws.

Unless you weigh 10,000 pounds carbide studs are an accident waiting to happen. You can't generate enough ground pressure to get a grip on most of the hard streamside rocks wearing carbide studs.

On wet rocks with slime they will work at times, because the slime catches them, but you are virtually guaranteed to slip if you hop, or try to climb, on a hard dry rock wearing carbide studs.

Aluminum is soft enough to yield to the rock and allow you to get a grip.

It's physics, not marketing, that keeps you upright while wading. Hard edges grip better on soft rocks, soft edges grip better on hard rocks.

Science trumps marketing as always.

Regards,

Tim Murphy :)
 
BigBronco wrote:
I really miss my old Aquastealth soles, thanks a bunch Simms for switching to Vibram :-x

A friend of mine has the Aquastealth and constantly refers to them as "Aquadeath." Meanwhile, the Vibram are serving me well.

Kev
 
i have the star cleats in the boots i wear for ny and in faster water, otherwise its nothing for me.
 
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