Steelhead - 7wt or 8wt?

greenlander

greenlander

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Sep 9, 2006
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Considering a new rod for steelhead (currently use a 9wt or my spey rod) ... the 9 is too heavy.

Do you prefer a 7wt or an 8wt for steelhead?

Essentially, I'd be looking for this rod to do duty on the Salmon River ... but also to do light saltwater and be my bonefish rod for my often dreamed of trips for bonefish (which might finally come true this spring).

Thanks in advance for any feedback.
 
If you already have a 9 weight, I'd get a 7 weight in 9.5 or 10 foot for steelhead.
 
I would probably go with the 8, but a 7 would work fine for the sake of a diversified arsenal.
 
Not a steel guy here but I'll comment on bonefish double duty: get an 8WT. There are folks who fish 6 and 7 WTs for bones in the Bahamas but if you're going to the FL Keys you want at least an 8WT and some guys prefer a 9WT due to wind, big fish, heavier flies, and deeper water.

A 7WT is a versatile rod that is underutilized (IMO, much like a 16 Ga shotgun) and is great for smallmouth bass and big river trout fishing with streamers. If you do opt for the 7WT, take your 9WT along too on your bonefish trip.
 
Thanks for the advice. I was leaning 8wt and like the sound of it.

Now I find out that Orvis doesn't make their 8wt Helios in anthing but 9ft, though the 5,6 and 7wt all come in 10ft.

What kind of sense does that make?

Maybe a switch rod is the way to go ... Hmm ....
 
I have an Orvis TLS in a 10 foot 7wt that is great for steelhead. Do they still make that rod? I started with a 9 foot 7wt rod and it was not up to the job. The 10 foot rod did well for me fishing Erie tribs.
 
I can't seem to make sense of why they don't make the 8, 9 and 10wts in 10'.

I guess I'll give Orvis a call in an attempt to satisfy my curiosity, though I doubt they'll have anything to offer in the way of an explanation.
 
I use a 10' 8 wt. for Steel on larger water - which you are talking about with the Salmon River. It's a Loomis Native Run - fast action with a softer tip. I use a 9 1/2 ft. 7 wt. on smaller rivers - some smaller than Elk in Erie. It's a St. Croix Avid. Medium fast and also a soft tip. Mostly roll casting and hight sticking. On the smaller water, I drop down my tippet size and I need a little softer rod than the 8 wt. to protect it. If I could get away with the 8 wt. I would - and if the water is not clear, I use the 8 because it gives me more turning power on those fresh bruisers. I would love to have that turning power on the smaller streams when it is clear, but I can't protect the tippet with the 8 wt. as well.

Cheers,
Mike.
 
Considering the Sage Z-Axis (albeit a bit slower) or their 99 series, or possible the G-Loomis CrossCurrent or NativeRun now .. really wanted to get over 9'.

Thanks for the recommendation on the NativeRun, ConMan ... I hadn't heard of it before but it looks like Loomis actually markets it as their steelhead/salmon rod where they market the CrossCurrent for salt.

I'll have to look into why each is better suited for their particular marketed usage and which is better suited to both fresh and saltwater duty.

The Z-Axis seems well suited to both.

Orvis may have lost a sale because of not making a 9'6 or 10' 8wt Helios. Seems really odd.
 
I don't know if I'd want such a high end fast rod for the trib fishing. So often, you're throwing big indicators and weight at relatively short range. Longer casts are usually water hauled. Unless I'm swinging flies, I could usually do the same job with a fiberglass rod.
 
My 7 is awful stiff compared to my other rods. It almost seems too much for typical bass fishing, however it will cast really big heavy streamers. I think I could cast my car keys if I wanted to. Now that's pushin' it.

I really don't see where I'll ever need more than a #7.

Heck, I go out for bass with my 4 weight sometimes. And then it gets windy or I want to cast a big crayfish really far. Then I get out the #7 and it will push heavy buggers and clousers in a good breeze.

I hooked a massive catfish over 30" on the river and my 7 was plenty of rod for the huge catfish, only I ripped the hook from it's mouth and lost it.
 
jayL wrote:
I don't know if I'd want such a high end fast rod for the trib fishing. So often, you're throwing big indicators and weight at relatively short range. Longer casts are usually water hauled. Unless I'm swinging flies, I could usually do the same job with a fiberglass rod.

I doubt I'll be doing much trib fishing, but maybe some. I don't fish the Erie tribs, just the SR. Although I wouldn't mind a rod that would work on smaller water too. In reality, though, much of the SR is pretty small (i.e upstream and downstream of trestle pool) ... and without doubt compared to most western steelhead waters .. which I'd use spey for anyway ... ugh, blathering now.

I'll definitely be swinging streamers, but I'll be bouncing nymphs with it as well.

For what it's worth, from what I've read, both the Z-Axis and the CrossCurrent supposedly excel at < 35 ft, not just at longer distances. The Z-Axis is also slower than Sage's Xi2 and Xi3 series, which are their extra-fast saltwater rods (probably more like the CrossCurrent).

I can never decide.... I'm already thinking switch.

I'll end up going one way or the other, then deciding I need yet another rod in a year or so.

At least it's a fun obsession. :)
 
greenlander wrote:

Thanks for the recommendation on the NativeRun, ConMan ... I hadn't heard of it before but it looks like Loomis actually markets it as their steelhead/salmon rod where they market the CrossCurrent for salt.

You bet. I love that rod. Works well when indie nymphing or high sticking, throws huge streamers for Kings, nice an long for long line nymphing and throwing huge mends. Solid butt, softer tip. Nice. I think it works well in close and can throw some nice long casts.

Go throw one around, just make sure you put some lead on these when your casting 'em. You gotta know how they'll handle some weight when testing them. If they wont let you put some led on when testing them, ask them to put a versi-tip on a WF floating line, that'll give you a good idea.

Good luck! It's part of the sickness for sure.

Cheers,

Mike.
 
6 wt. 9ft or a new 9' 9" 6 wt. Well, I'm thinking you're fishing the Erie/Cataragas Co streams. Absolutely no need for anything bigger. Again, I'm considering you'll be drifting egg patterns. That kind of fishing is really arduous with an 8 wt. They're basically trout flies that works great on a 5 wt. Heavy shot makes a 6 wt. much nicer. But I fished several years and caught lots of big steelies on my 9 ft 5 wt. The lighter rods are just much, much more pleasant to fish with. You wont' be hating yourself so much at the end of an 8 hour day and few fish. Much happier arm joints, muscles and tendons. And just as many fish landed.
Syl
 
I have a 7wt 10' Zero G Orvis and I use it in Erie steelheadingworks great... I have never had a problem with it and as always youre buying that Orvis warrenty!
 
greenlander wrote:
I can't seem to make sense of why they don't make the 8, 9 and 10wts in 10'.

I guess I'll give Orvis a call in an attempt to satisfy my curiosity, though I doubt they'll have anything to offer in the way of an explanation.

Because the Helios is meant to be a bragging rod (for Orvis) on how light it is. Even using their super technology it would be very tip heavy in a 8.9 or 10. I have a 9'6" 9wt St Croix Legend Ultra Bob Popovic rod and it is a beast, though considered one of the best in class.
 
greenlander wrote:
jayL wrote:
I don't know if I'd want such a high end fast rod for the trib fishing. So often, you're throwing big indicators and weight at relatively short range. Longer casts are usually water hauled. Unless I'm swinging flies, I could usually do the same job with a fiberglass rod.

I doubt I'll be doing much trib fishing, but maybe some. I don't fish the Erie tribs, just the SR. Although I wouldn't mind a rod that would work on smaller water too. In reality, though, much of the SR is pretty small (i.e upstream and downstream of trestle pool) ... and without doubt compared to most western steelhead waters .. which I'd use spey for anyway ... ugh, blathering now.

I'll definitely be swinging streamers, but I'll be bouncing nymphs with it as well.

For what it's worth, from what I've read, both the Z-Axis and the CrossCurrent supposedly excel at < 35 ft, not just at longer distances. The Z-Axis is also slower than Sage's Xi2 and Xi3 series, which are their extra-fast saltwater rods (probably more like the CrossCurrent).

I can never decide.... I'm already thinking switch.

I'll end up going one way or the other, then deciding I need yet another rod in a year or so.

At least it's a fun obsession. :)

Ya man, but all those reviews and stuff you are reading about the Z-Axis and CrossCurrent exceling at < 35 ft. That is in real fishing. Salmon River is not real fishing.

You are not blathering. You have your spey rod for the bigger sections of the SR. When the flows are up you need it. Look at the spey to fly rod ratio. 4:1? 5:1? It's for a reason. SR at 1500 you gotta be able to chuck that crap.

IMO, for the most part a switch rod is for people who are just not willing to make the spey jump. You already made the spey jump.

10' 7wt. In Helios you are even talking about a rod you could use all day for streamers and nymphing.
 
When I say "trib" fishing, I mean the salmon river, for what it's worth.
 
I am leaning towards a 10' 7wt Echo Ion.
 
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