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Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2010/7/18 7:23
From Lansdale
Posts: 894
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I found a bottle of sinkant on the side of a stream. It seems to work when added to a nymph and tippet. I don't like the oily sheen it leaves, just like Gink floatant. That's another reason I like the mucillin. There's no oily sheen on the water. In reality, I doubt the sheen matters, though.

Posted on: 2013/10/16 6:14
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Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2006/9/9 11:22
From New Castle, PA
Posts: 1571
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Quote:

geebee wrote:
[
they sink, that's why i don't use them on streams - great for nymphing lakes and the salt, but i always found that after a number of trips the first 6" would sink.

DT's i don't have an issue with - never treat the line. they last maybe 2 years then i switch them round.

imho if your having to treat your fly line, you either need a new one or its the wrong type, in which case you need a new one too...


You truly believe this? That the taper of the line affects how well it floats?

That the thicker middle portion of a DT line somehow makes the last few inches float better? That the thinner running line section of a WF line makes the last few inches tend to sink?

You may very well have had better luck with your DT lines, but I can't say that I agree with your idea of DT's being inherently better floating lines. It makes no sense.

Posted on: 2013/10/16 6:38


Re: MUCILIN
Moderator
Joined:
2006/9/11 8:26
From Chester County
Posts: 8608
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Quote:

PennKev wrote:
Quote:

geebee wrote:
[
they sink, that's why i don't use them on streams - great for nymphing lakes and the salt, but i always found that after a number of trips the first 6" would sink.

DT's i don't have an issue with - never treat the line. they last maybe 2 years then i switch them round.

imho if your having to treat your fly line, you either need a new one or its the wrong type, in which case you need a new one too...


You truly believe this? That the taper of the line affects how well it floats?

That the thicker middle portion of a DT line somehow makes the last few inches float better? That the thinner running line section of a WF line makes the last few inches tend to sink?

You may very well have had better luck with your DT lines, but I can't say that I agree with your idea of DT's being inherently better floating lines. It makes no sense.



+1 to PK

Same front taper except WF narrows to a running line.



Attach file:



jpg  DTvs WF.JPG (14.48 KB)
53_525e7485c270e.jpg 574X278 px

Posted on: 2013/10/16 7:12


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2010/7/18 7:23
From Lansdale
Posts: 894
Offline
Me thinks your line is cracked.

Posted on: 2013/10/16 12:19
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Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2012/10/24 19:22
From Da 'Berg, PA
Posts: 1240
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Quote:

afishinado wrote:
+1 to PK

Same front taper except WF narrows to a running line.




i think that diagram is a little simplistic - the first 10ft of a WF must weight more than a DT right ?


btw - to answer the tippet question - i use Snake River Mud from Loon on the last 12" of a dry fly tippet.




Posted on: 2013/10/16 13:35


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2006/9/9 11:22
From New Castle, PA
Posts: 1571
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Quote:

geebee wrote:

i think that diagram is a little simplistic - the first 10ft of a WF must weight more than a DT right ?



No they don't. The front tapers of the same brand and product line of fly lines in both DT and WF are usually are very similar if not the same.

Posted on: 2013/10/16 15:57


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2012/10/24 19:22
From Da 'Berg, PA
Posts: 1240
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Quote:

PennKev wrote:
Quote:

geebee wrote:

i think that diagram is a little simplistic - the first 10ft of a WF must weight more than a DT right ?



No they don't. The front tapers of the same brand and product line of fly lines in both DT and WF are usually are very similar if not the same.


i just checked the Rio LT range - you are right - same diameter, same 30ft weight, but the tip of the DT is 9'6" and the WF is 8'

so the taper is slightly different although the overall mass is the same.

we're kind of both right, but you're more right than me haha...

Posted on: 2013/10/16 17:49


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2013/9/6 11:40
From Hunker
Posts: 157
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What's the difference between the red mucilin and the green mucilin ? I use a different type, but am thinking about switching.

Posted on: 2013/10/18 20:27
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Just leave the steams alone, keep'em clean, keep'em cold and keep the fish. No "eradication" needed in CV


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2006/9/18 8:28
From Attitudinally, one mile south of Lake LeBoeuf
Posts: 810
Offline
To me, the difference between the red and green is that I buy and use the green, not the red...

I'm not sure what all is in red Mucilin, some combination of oils/solvents as best I recall.

The green though is simply silicone paste with no added ingredients to stabilize the stuff during temperature variations. So, it melts, re-congeals, then melts again when it gets warm. Most every vest I've ever owned has had a big Mucilin stain on one of the pockets by the time it became so threadbare I chucked it.

I don't mind..

I really like the green Mucilin and have used it for close to 40 years. It dresses the business end of fly lines and keeps them floating (Because I'm tough on lines and only maintain them indifferently, I fish cheap lines, mostly AquaNova lines out of Guelph, Ontario) and also floats dry flies as well if not better than anything else I know of. I have used it to lube the bail mechanisms on older spinning reels and last year when my brother in laws front door mechanism got very difficult to turn a key in, l brought it right back around into good working order by coating a key with green Mucilin and repeatedly inserting it in the lock and juking it back and forth until the mechanism freed up.

Its great stuff, IMO. It does it all and I wouldn't be without it.

Posted on: 2013/10/18 21:30


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2006/9/21 0:02
From Pittsburgh
Posts: 4144
Online
Quote:

LetortAngler wrote:
What's the difference between the red mucilin and the green mucilin ? I use a different type, but am thinking about switching.


I use the red for making my liquid fly float, because thats what George Harvey recommends using in his book. And I'm guessing there's a reason he did so. Maybe it mixes better with lighter fluid?

Posted on: 2013/10/18 22:55


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2012/1/13 15:28
From Ferguson Twp.
Posts: 2136
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Quote:

LetortAngler wrote:
What's the difference between the red mucilin and the green mucilin ? I use a different type, but am thinking about switching.

The green label container has silicone in it.

Posted on: 2013/10/19 20:07
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Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2008/6/28 15:57
Posts: 713
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Bamboo rod anglers don't like green tin Mucilin because of the silicone. It messes with varnished rod finishes and causes spotting. Silicone may be bad for silk lines, too, but I'm not sure about that. Silk line users may just be staying away from green tin Mucilin because most of them also fish with cane rods. Practically all the ones I know about, anyway.

My secret weapon for floatant is Nikwax. The only problem is that it works too well. It takes some doing to get a leader to sink after it's been soaked in Nikwax. It also works as a pre-treatment on dry flies, but don't leave them in too long, the hooks will rust. Also, sometimes there's a white residue on the bodies and hackles.

When using searching patterns, I try to do without any floatant at all until I find out what- and where- the fish are taking. I like a fly that starts out floating and then sinks at the end of the drift. I do use fleece patches for soggy flies. It would be nice to find a super-aborbent cloth that would dry a fly back to unused condition right away, but fleece is as close as I've gotten to that.



Posted on: 2013/10/19 23:28


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2013/9/6 11:40
From Hunker
Posts: 157
Offline
Features
Made In England
Red is The Original Line Maitenance for Older Silk Lines
Green Silicone Base For Modern Fly lines
Red or Green Excellent for Dry Flies Floatant
-- I found this info on the web, I guess I'm gonna go with green?

Posted on: 2013/10/20 15:47
_________________
Just leave the steams alone, keep'em clean, keep'em cold and keep the fish. No "eradication" needed in CV


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2012/1/13 15:28
From Ferguson Twp.
Posts: 2136
Offline
I've been using the green label for a long time and have had no problems with it.

Posted on: 2013/10/20 20:53
_________________
There is a need to fish, to be in the water. It soothes the soul...


Re: MUCILIN

Joined:
2012/10/24 19:22
From Da 'Berg, PA
Posts: 1240
Offline
Quote:

barbless wrote:
It would be nice to find a super-aborbent cloth that would dry a fly back to unused condition right away, but fleece is as close as I've gotten to that.




back in the day of wading gaiters and puttees, Sir Henry whoever always had a patch of this in his dry fly wallet :

Click to see original Image in a new window

a fungus known as 'amadou' by the French.

nowadays you buy them in leather pouches and squeeze the fly dry on the line :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/190824529002?lpid=82


not cheap but the fungus is rare i think ?

a cheaper alternative would be to make a similar pouch and line it with a shamwow - a buddy of mine swears by it.


Posted on: 2013/10/20 21:56



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