...This is my first time using an epoxy to form a head on a fly...
...So far things aren't going so good...
...Have any of you had this problem before? and if so how do I prevent it from happening again...
...I personally am leaning on a way to make this whole thing easier, that being loon's UV finish, but I really can't afford it at this time...
Before you go running to an expensive UV activated glue, here are a few tips.
-A wheel is great advice (a must) for finishing multiple flies. If you can't buy/borrow/make one - just do one fly at a time and spin in your hand or on a hemostat/hackle plier...
-There are several types of epoxy, and the brands are very similar. Don't sweat the difference in brands.
-What you need to consider is the "drying time" which should be clearly labeled.
--Five minute epoxy is great for a few flies at a time.
--Thirty minute epoxy epoxy is great for a bunch of flies.
-When using epoxy, I find that the most effective way to preserve the glue for future applications is to place even amounts of the resin and hardener onto a post-it note. This way, there is no mixing (and thus hardening) in the individual tubes.
-After mixing the epoxy on the paper with a coffee stirrer or toothpick, apply it to the first fly smoothly (avoid the eye of the hook) and place the fly into the drying wheel.
--If you don't have a wheel, use 5 minute epoxy and rotate it steadily by hand until it begins to harden. At this point, the epoxy won't form a drip, and you can then set the fly into a block of foam and repeat the process with the next fly.
--If you have a drying wheel, Use 30, 60 or 90 minute epoxy and do the same thing, but place each finished fly in the rotary drying wheel and allow them to spin until all of your flies are done, or the epoxy you are using begins to harden.
I personally believe that smoother heads can be accomplished with epoxy than with UV resins.
The UV stuff has other applications that are much better than messing with epoxy, but in what you are trying to do, epoxy is superior.