problems with epoxy

fishingnoob

fishingnoob

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Aug 20, 2012
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Hey guys. I just got done tying a few emerald shiners for an upcoming steelhead trip. This is my first time using an epoxy to form a head on a fly. I bought loctite brand epoxy from walmart after talking with bob in volant who told me to just get a general epoxy. So far things aren't going so good. After making a decent epoxy head on one of the shiners I let it sit to dry for a few hours. I however came back to find that the epoxy soaked into the thread and the head I made was pretty much non existent. Have any of you had this problem before? and if so how do I prevent it from happening again. Or is there a better epoxy I should get?
 
I've found that a turning wheel - one of those battery powers rotater thingys - is helpful as it disperses the epoxy evenly and the centrifugal force helps keep it from soaking into materials quite so much. Without such a wheel, you have to manually turn the head or the epoxy will just gradually drip off the fly before it can dry.
 
Good advice Dave. What sucks is that I have to epoxy all the flies at once because if not I waste a funnel tube that mixes/makes it easy to disperse the epoxy since it will harden in the tube over time. I personally am leaning on a way to make this whole thing easier, that being loon's UV finish, but I really can't afford it at this time (just bought a set of tires). I might use a hairdryer to enhance the drying time next time I apply if it'll help.
 
You can still use a drying wheel & cover a batch of flies at once. If you're concerned about the cost of a commercial drying wheel (roughly $30-$40), you can make your own for a few bucks. Here is a link I used. DIY fly drying wheel

If you purchase a Disco Ball motor & make your own mount you'll be good to go. I think I got my motor at Spencer Gifts at a local mall for maybe $8. My dad had some scrap wood around the house & I used the end of a swimming pool noodle as my foam cylinder (found the noodle in the trash). All in all, cost me maybe $15 to make and about 1-2 hours time. Well worth it. I made mine so I can take it apart & easily store it also. I don't have any pictures, but could always try to post some if interested.

The UV stuff is definitely the way to go. I started using Clear Cure Goo & love it. Cost is definitely a factor, but the product is so much easier to work with & no drying wheel required! Good luck!
 
elonDO...that is awesome...looks easy and effective...and with the low cost of materials I'm definitely going to give it a try
 
Go with Clear Cure Goo and save yourself some hassle of mixing and drying. It is pricey, but way more efficient and no mess. Get the brushable tack free and a UV light and your set to go.

Here is my Emerald Shiner pattern.

defranks_emerald_shiner_hyper.jpg


and another option is using a Fish Skull Helmet

1263914_697780983584560_380128782_o.jpg
 
Very nice flies Mark.
 
...This is my first time using an epoxy to form a head on a fly...
...So far things aren't going so good...
...Have any of you had this problem before? and if so how do I prevent it from happening again...
...I personally am leaning on a way to make this whole thing easier, that being loon's UV finish, but I really can't afford it at this time...

Before you go running to an expensive UV activated glue, here are a few tips.

-A wheel is great advice (a must) for finishing multiple flies. If you can't buy/borrow/make one - just do one fly at a time and spin in your hand or on a hemostat/hackle plier...
-There are several types of epoxy, and the brands are very similar. Don't sweat the difference in brands.
-What you need to consider is the "drying time" which should be clearly labeled.
--Five minute epoxy is great for a few flies at a time.
--Thirty minute epoxy epoxy is great for a bunch of flies.
-When using epoxy, I find that the most effective way to preserve the glue for future applications is to place even amounts of the resin and hardener onto a post-it note. This way, there is no mixing (and thus hardening) in the individual tubes.
-After mixing the epoxy on the paper with a coffee stirrer or toothpick, apply it to the first fly smoothly (avoid the eye of the hook) and place the fly into the drying wheel.
--If you don't have a wheel, use 5 minute epoxy and rotate it steadily by hand until it begins to harden. At this point, the epoxy won't form a drip, and you can then set the fly into a block of foam and repeat the process with the next fly.
--If you have a drying wheel, Use 30, 60 or 90 minute epoxy and do the same thing, but place each finished fly in the rotary drying wheel and allow them to spin until all of your flies are done, or the epoxy you are using begins to harden.

I personally believe that smoother heads can be accomplished with epoxy than with UV resins.
The UV stuff has other applications that are much better than messing with epoxy, but in what you are trying to do, epoxy is superior.
 
use sally h 1st before epoxy is placed on the thread/head.
 
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