Muskie Flies

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Fishidiot

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Sep 9, 2006
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Muskie flies, like virtually any streamer, can be effective utilizing a wide range of techniques and design. Generally, you want a large fly that pushes a lot of water and that can fished with a fast retrieve but that, at the same time, doesn't get too heavy to cast. It needs strong hooks and a durable design. Better yet, if the fly darts from side to side in an erratic, "crippled" fashion, all the better. Two or three years ago, I made my muskie flies using synthetic wings and rabbit strip underwing. I like my streamers to swim hook upward so used dumbell weights tied in Clouser style. Currently, I've changed things up. I ditched the rabbit strips (at least on larger flies over about 6") since they just absorb too much water. In its place, I now use pretty much all deer hair for the wings and bulk. I found that dumbell weights simply could not keep my muskie flies running hook up with the rapid and hard strips I applied. To remedy this, I switched to keel weights on a heavy mono loop - typically a 1/32nd oz slip sinker. These are still light enough for casting but provide enough weight to keep the fly swimming hook up as well as enhancing the fly's action. The pic below is a typical example of what many of my muskie flies currently look like. Unfortunately, the keel weight isn't visible in the pic but it is at the front of the fly just behind the hook eye. The fly is a triple hook system connected with #60 wire and a couple beads.
The recipe is as follows:

Front section: Hook is a 3/0 rubber worn hook; Green bucktail with several dyed grizzly hackles over it. Overwing is olive sculpin yarn tied with a small clipped head for bulk. The keel weight is under this section

Middle section: Same hook; material is a couple turns of black synthetic flash material ("Baitfish Emulator Flash" by Hareline Dubbing Inc)

Tail Section: Stinger hook placed very far back is a streamer hook #4; material is all olive deer hair tied with a spun/clipped head for bulk

Total length of fly is 7.5 inches.
 

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I do have a couple of questions. Is the size 4 tyed in for musky? And whats your reasoning for wanting your streamer to ride hook up? The roof of a essox mouth is all bone.

Most of my paterns are weightless. Because I think the most deadly thing you can get in your retieve is the hard pause at the end of the strip. The ability to make the fly just hang there and flutter is key. And the weightless balance of the hair hackle and flash makes this possible. Its all tying your material in to getting as much motion with out movement as you can. Id rather use the line to get the fly down than the actual weight of the fly.
 
Nice! I think the sculpin wool was throwing me off in the previous pic...should push some water for sure. I like the black flash too. I think I've seen similar materials, but never in black...just looks fishy.

I'm trying to work some hookpoint-up patterns as well. I'm thinking of more of a cold weather, bottom-bouncer than my usual flies (also to avoid snags). First fly that came to mind was the wing. Being on the smaller side though, I think I would try to make a wider profile with the bucktail. Combining the (upside down) high-tie method with the dumbell eyes should work well to keep the hook upright (I'n my mind at least).

Experimenting will begin tonight.

(I didn't tie these...pics from the link above)

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PACOFRANSICO wrote:
I do have a couple of questions. Is the size 4 tyed in for musky? And whats your reasoning for wanting your streamer to ride hook up? The roof of a essox mouth is all bone.

Most of my paterns are weightless. Because I think the most deadly thing you can get in your retieve is the hard pause at the end of the strip. The ability to make the fly just hang there and flutter is key. And the weightless balance of the hair hackle and flash makes this possible. Its all tying your material in to getting as much motion with out movement as you can. Id rather use the line to get the fly down than the actual weight of the fly.

Makes sense.

The hook visible in the rear of this fly is smaller than what I'd regard as ideal - it's there just for a bit more hooking security. Most of the time, even with large patterns, when bass hit the fly they hit the front and if I stick 'em on a muskie fly, it's usually on the front hook. Back in my days of fishing gear for muskies I built my own bucktail spinners and I always wanted a hook at the very rear of the lure (and this was often the hook that caught fish). With respect to swimming hook upward - this is just a general preference of mine for virtually all streamers for all species. They don't snag as much and, at least for muskies, I like to "jig" the fly slowly along the bottom during colder periods and I get fewer snags this way. Muskie flies are time consuming to tie and burn a lot of materials and I'd just prefer fewer snags. Do they hook as well? Honestly, I haven't caught enough muskies on flies to have a hard and fast opinion on this and much of my experience comes from gear fishing. You're right about the tough upper jaw. There is a section between the tooth pads and mandible where I've had good "purchase" with hooks on pike and muskies. My muskie spinnerbaits (just like a bass spinnerbaits) swim with a single hook upward and I've had good hooking success on esocids. Nevertheless, it would be an interesting thing to pay some attention to.
 
I have tried to pay attention which hook I am hooking up on with the fish I catch. It has been my experience that it is about 50/50 on the tandems of which hook gets them. Sometimes I get both hooks buried in. It seems to me that most often the musky inhale the whole fly and typically from the side. They hover underneath and just coil up and blow up on it. I would say the biggest thing that has increased my hookups is just good quality hooks. When I started I used just cheap mustad 3407 hooks. I would say my hookup ratio was half or less. Since I have gone to gamakatsu and most recently the partridge hooks I would say my hook up is at least 80-90% now. So far I am 100% with the partridge on 7 fish.

As far as weight I like the neutral buoyancy. Alot of times a fish will take the fly as it is paused. With the side to side action of the flies I use, when the fly is paused it is still constantly moving in the flowing water and I think that pause just adds a more crippled look to it.

Fishidiot that fly does look good.

Jay I have always liked the looks of those "wing" flies. They would look good at about 7 or 8 inches on a 6/0 or something similar.
 
2 recent ties. Love the colors. They glow in the water too.

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Those are just plain awesome TD. Whats the black head? Racoon?

I almost forgot I recently ordered some big jig hooks...hoping the mailman brings something good today.
 
Jay the blackhead is just plain old crosscut rabbit. I lay down some super glue before I wrap it so it strengthens the fly from teeth and it also prevents the skin of the rabbit from soaking up any unwanted water for weight.
 
for a hook up fly look into Bendback flies. A saltwater flies that is usually tied small, but with the right hook could get into the 7-8" range. Would still be weightless, but not sure you could pull off a double hook. Just a thought. Definitely a subtle fly compared to the doubles and triples. Might not be the best design given the hard mouth, but might be worthwhile ove submerged wood and weeds. just a thought.
 
My idea of subtle is switching to a 7 or 8 inch single hook hangtime, river pig or buford.
 
TD55 wrote:
...it also prevents the skin of the rabbit from soaking up any unwanted water for weight.

Learned something new there!

I keep staring at those flies...I'm totally going to steal the orange color combo.

Anyway, here is my first attempt at an oversized (5/0 owner) wing fly. Don't quite love it yet. I'll test it out tomorrow; but I'll prolly end up recycling the hook on this one. I think something w/ a longer shank would have given me room for one more short clump of bucktail (and a wider baitfish profile) at the rear.

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Yeah I would have to say the orange white and black is my new favorite. Orange has always been a good color for me.
 
What I notice with the bucktail is depending on what taper you tie the bucktail in at, it can give you some neat profiles and action in the water. I dont think there is a say all be all fly. I've seen some beat up flies take a musky vs a brand new fly right off the vise. I like all the tyes you guys have up there. The cool part about this type of tying is you can experiment with a bunch of different materials and color combo's. Just see what will work and what wont. Thats whats fun about this. What works for one person might not work for another.
 
Nice looking fly Jay
 
Bilg it's just throwing the fly that you know will make it happen. Some flys are just greasy & swimm better than others. I got se favorite colors only because of good experiences fishing them. Yellow n black, hot red & orange & fire tiger. That's the "all in color" for me.
 
Right everyone has their go to colors but I think its worth trying different hook set ups and hooks and what not to see what you have confidence in. If it doesnt touch the water you'll never know.
 
I am a big believer in Gamas and Owner hooks. A friend gave me a couple of partridge too try. Haven't hooked a fish with them yet.

I think if there a premium chem sharp hook you can't go wrong. Unless there a circle hook.
 
Here's another....
 

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Nice!

Just like last time...I can't stop staring at the long, black flash material. Gotta keep my eye out for that stuff.

 
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