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Re: Hand tied leaders

2009/12/3 14:56
From Cato, NY
Posts: 199

PatrickC wrote:
I start winding the tippet end and then use the butt-end to make a couple wraps to hold it in a loop. It's a live and learn thing bro. You'll find a way that works for you no doubt!

This is how I do it too. Works for me. The key is winding the tippet end first so that you can use the butt section at the end to keep the leader wrapped.

Posted on: 2013/3/11 13:00

Re: Hand tied leaders

2011/6/29 9:38
From Philadelphia
Posts: 5
I do not mean or want to derail this thread but I'm curious how many people are like me. I tie on a new hand tied leader every spring and don't think I've changed that leader until the following spring. I use the same leader for dry and nymphs. Am I the odd ball here or is this something a lot of guys do?

For this reason I really can't add value to your thread since I change them in the comfort of my living room.

Posted on: 2013/3/11 13:06

Re: Hand tied leaders

2008/1/31 17:19
From Pretty much everywhere at some point, Thorndale today.
Posts: 2370
I really use 4 "base" leaders, and each of those gets adjusted some.

1. Dedicated dry fly - pretty soft in comparison with most, similar to the older style of Harvey slack line leaders, though he got "slacker" later on. For those evening, hatch chasing outings, and trico's/midge outings as well.

2. Dedicated nymph - This is typically a mostly "flat" leader, butt straight to 7 ft or so of 3x tippet, then tapered quickly right at the end. Takes a dropper well with the blood knots near the business end. For those days where you know you'll be dredging the deep, fast stuff.

3. Jack of all trades. Generally follows the rule of 3rds. Formula came from the FFP booklet that came with my original leader tying kit. I often use this on days where I'll be switching back and forth between dries and nymphs. Also works well when I plan to "skip" dry flies around, rather than aim for drag free.

4. Brookie. Generally follows the Humphrey's tight brush formula.

The first 3 generally last more than a year, but I do change them fairly often. The last one needs rebuilt dang near every outing. When brookie fishing, I rarely lose many flies cause you can just go get em. But I destroy my tippets and leaders.

Posted on: 2013/3/11 14:48

Re: Hand tied leaders

2006/9/11 11:30
Posts: 197
I use a similar assortment plus a steelie leader. Don't like to have any leader on more than a year - UV will weaken them. Other than that there is a big variation in wear. Steelie leaders get beat up and need to be 100% to hold a hot fish. Therefore, they get rebuilt for practically every trip. Nymph and dry fly leaders last fairly long. However, if I am taking a trip to a place where large, strong fish are common (like Delaware, some Western rivers) I will use a new leader if I have any doubts at all. The trout in my local streams are forgiving to a less than perfect leader - a 22" brown on the upper East Branch is not.

I also like to carry spares for some unforseen damage to a leader. It's no fun accidentally damaging your leader after driving 2 hours to a spot where the fish are rising and not have a ready spare.

Posted on: 2013/3/12 10:16

Re: Hand tied leaders

2007/5/29 14:32
From SE PA - Montgomery County
Posts: 223

One leader would never work for me. I have 5 different ones tied up that I use:

Dry fly (12'-14')
Nymph (9')
Brookie (7')
Streamer (4'-5') &
Heavy dry fly (i.e. hopper leader)

Posted on: 2013/3/12 12:55

Re: Hand tied leaders

2009/4/1 21:52
From Johnstown, PA
Posts: 5
I think i go through about 10 a year , first time i really thought about it . When i sit down to make leaders i make 6 to 8 at a time of what i think i'll need in the near future , maybe 3 times a year. Give many away to folks. The method that is described in the OP will work , slow down and get the tippet end undone first....GOOD LUCK!!!!

Posted on: 2013/3/15 6:21

Re: Hand tied leaders

2013/3/7 12:27
From Sintrul Pinnsiveenya
Posts: 160
I wind them around my outstretched fingers starting with the tippet first and ending with the butt section.. I leave about a foot of the butt section free and then "weave" it around the loops until it is used up. I dont coil these finishing wraps very tight. The mono will "find" it's own comfort spot. Most commercial leaders are packaged that way. As stated earlier, it is wise to take your time uncoiling the leader. You will be uncoiling from the butt to tippet. Most times the coils just fall apart naturally. Don't forget to stretch/straighten your leader once attached. FWIW, don't swap out leaders in the field as I prefer a tidy nail knot over some of the welded loop/braided butt/perfection loop butt abominations out there. Usually I just change length or tippet size based on conditions. I really prefer loop to loop tippet attachment. Most always, I'm fishing a 10-12 foot 5-6X point even with nymphs so it's a moot point there. I'll (rarely) stick a piece of glo-bug yarn inside a figure 8 knot halfway in the butt section if an indicator is needed. Ive had the same leader on my go to 3,4, and 5 weight systems for a couple years now. Never broke a butt section. Hope this helps.

Posted on: 2013/3/16 20:25

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