Cork Screw leaders

wbranch

wbranch

Well-known member
Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
2,127
Location
York
Up until last year I and many other steelheaders, and fly fishers in general, were using the Thing-A-Ma-Bobber type indicator. You know the round bobber with a little ear coming off of it with a rubber grommet through which you doubled your the butt section of your leader and passed the loop over the bobber and pulled it tight to position it on the leader. Well over the course of a day when fishing different depths you had to frequently re-position the bobber and in doing so your leader got all messed up with kinks and curls.

Well you may of already seen this fix some place (even though I thought it is my original idea) else on this forum or other FFing sites.

Go to Dicks or Gander Mountain and buy a pack of Eagle Claw"Bobber Stops". There are ten in a package, five red and five black. I have no idea why there are two colors. They are attached to a little yellow disc and running out of the disc are ten tiny looped wires. Each bobber stop is on one of the little loops.

When you go to set up your rod for the day (BTW this doesn't work with knotted leaders) insert the end of your tippet through one of the wire loops about 2", then slide the little rubber stop off of the wire loop and onto your leader. Slide it up the butt as far as you want. Then slip the Thing-A-Ma-Bobber onto the end of the leader, then attach another Bobber Stop and slide it up to the first one you installed. Your bobber (indicator) with be between the two rubber stoppers. You can re-position the stoppers all day long and at the end of the day your leader will be as perfectly straight as when you first put it on.

The bobber stops come with different sized holes in the rubber for lighter, or heavier, monofilament lines. I always try and get the 4-8 lb size as the holes are small enough that they stay securely in place even with robust roll casting and you can still slide them down to a lighter (thinner) section of tippet if necessary.

Now with the advent of the Air-Lock indicators you will never have to worry about kinked leaders again. For those of you unfamiliar with the Air-Lock indicator it is still basically the same shape, and available in the same diameters, as the TAMB but the difference in attaching to the leader is huge.

Instead of having the ear with the rubber grommet there is a little threaded post coming off the ball. That post is slit right down the middle. There is a tiny rubber washer on the bottom and a little round threaded nut that screws onto the post.

You remove the little black plastic nut (don't do it over the water) and insert the leader anywhere on the diameter, even as thin as 5X, then screw the little black nut back on and tighten. You don't need to over tighten either. They come in 1/2", 3/4", and 1 1/4" diameters. Maybe they come in 1" but I have not seen them. They also come in clear plastic which is neat if you think the colored indicators might spook the fish. I use the clear for steelhead as clear looks much like the bubbles on the streams.

Brevity is not my strong suit! Someone else could probably of explained this in one or two paragraphs. I still have over a dozen TAMB in various colors and sizes and put them on backup rods when I go chasing chrome.
 
Got info. I think I bought some of those stops years ago and have them squirreled away. Completely forgot. I'll have to dig them out.



wbranch wrote:

Brevity is not my strong suit! Someone else could probably of explained this in one or two paragraphs. I still have over a dozen TAMB in various colors and sizes and put them on backup rods when I go chasing chrome.

Are you related to Pcray? :-D
 
I just saw this a few months ago but used with nail knotting 2 small pieces of old fly line to your leader with the indicator in between. The knots of fly line can slide to adjust depth and the indicator goes on without kinking the line. If you're using an indicator all day this can work well. If you don't then it can be a pain. I tied a loop to loop connection but you have to make sure the loop is big enough on your leader to fit the indicator though. Learned this the hard way the first time. I actually haven't used it yet so can't speak to how effective it is.
 
Wbranch wrote:

Brevity is not my strong suit! Someone else could probably of explained this in one or two paragraphs. I still have over a dozen TAMB in various colors and sizes and put them on backup rods when I go chasing chrome.

Are you related to pcray?

Dunno, is he a motor mouth too?
 
If you're using an indicator all day this can work well. If you don't then it can be a pain

I have seen those little nail knot stoppers at Gander Mountain. They come pre-tied on little pieces of tubing. You slide them off the tubing and put them on the leader. They are only as tight as you can pull the ends of the line. They can slip. The rubber stoppers never move on the thick butt section of the leader where the diameter is say .012" - .025". Since I never overhead cast with the TAMB on roll casting does not dislodge them from wherever you put them.
 
Ive done something kind of similar with yarn indicators. I always had a problem with yarn indicataors sliding around on me whenever I didn't want them to. So now when I want to use yarn indicators I tie on two backing barrels and put the indicator inbetween them. Then just slide the whole system around.
 
The bobber stop system works pretty well. However, I have found the homemade nail knot stoppers to be superior to the store bought rubber stops. The store bought ones seem to either slide too easily on thinner leader butts or are very difficult to get on to a heavier butt.

As a side note, I get a chuckle everytime I see someone bemoan changing leaders to accommodate a change in technique. It takes literally just a few minites to swap out an indi leader for a dry fly leader. Why not use the best tool for the job? Why not trade a minute or two for easier, more enjoyable fishing and possibly more success? On bigger streams it's not uncommon for me to use three or four different leader set-ups, particularly if it is slow and I am trying to figure the fish out. Indi, dry fly, streamer, tight line, all get a re-rig to accommodate the nuances of each method.

Kev
 
The store bought ones seem to either slide too easily on thinner leader butts or are very difficult to get on to a heavier butt.

The Eagle Claw bobber stops come in a number of hole sizes to accommodate lighter mono diameters to heavier, or thicker, diameters which helps to mitigate slippage of the stoppers on the leader.

This is ad copy I located on the Internet;

Price: $1.69

- Eagle Claw Bobber Stop
- Sizes (3): 2-4lb, 4-8lb, 8-12lb
- 10 pieces per pack (5 black, 5 red)
 
PennKev wrote:
The bobber stop system works pretty well. However, I have found the homemade nail knot stoppers to be superior to the store bought rubber stops. The store bought ones seem to either slide too easily on thinner leader butts or are very difficult to get on to a heavier butt.

As a side note, I get a chuckle everytime I see someone bemoan changing leaders to accommodate a change in technique. It takes literally just a few minites to swap out an indi leader for a dry fly leader. Why not use the best tool for the job? Why not trade a minute or two for easier, more enjoyable fishing and possibly more success? On bigger streams it's not uncommon for me to use three or four different leader set-ups, particularly if it is slow and I am trying to figure the fish out. Indi, dry fly, streamer, tight line, all get a re-rig to accommodate the nuances of each method.

Kev

^ I agree about changing leaders to fit your fishing technique. It does only take a few minutes and it can make you fishing a lot more effective and easier if you use the right leader configuration for the job at hand.

I hand-furl my own furled leader butts and often change out the mid and tippet sections depending on my chosen technique and the conditions. Also I keep on-hand a poly leader for fishing streamers.
 
Back
Top