7/8 weight reel??

[ryguyfi]

I'm fairly new to fly fishing and want to expand my arsenal. I'm looking for a nice 7/8 weight for some heavier fish... pike, walleye, steelhead, etc. I'd prefer something from cabella's only because I have some gift certificates from there and I'm poor. I'd like to spend maybe 150 max but any suggestions are welcome. I'd like a drag system that can tuned to next to nothing at times. Besides that i'm open to just about anything. Thanks!

 

[scotto]

take a look at the Cabela's LSR. Nice reels, fully macined aluminum, light weight and good drag.

 

[Padraic]

The Tioga Reel is a nice choice. I'm not sure why you want to dial down the drag to "next to nothing" but if you do, you might like the big knob Tioga uses for the drag adjustment. One of those big fish taking off on a light drag, and you'll want to be able to dial down in a hurry.

I use a Tioga for bass fishing and I've had nothing but good experiences with it, but smallmouth are not known for long blistering runs.

 

[TimMurphy]

Dear ryguyfi,

My vote goes to the Scientific Anglers System 2-L model 78 reel. It will hold a WF8 line and 120 yards of backing and the reel is bullet-proof. They run $ 129.95 but you can occasionally find them on sale for less.

Edited to say that Cabela's carries this reel, the price is from their new 2007 Fly Fishing catalog.

Regards,
Tim Murphy

 

[ryguyfi]

Thanks for all the input so soon. Doing a little bit of looking it seems like my eyes are bigger than my wallet. But who's isnt. Just a few questions about reels. What are the advantages/dis of different drag systems. From my original post I guess I meant a wider range of drag settings rather than fine tune to nothing. I've heard complaints from other fishermen of their drags not being able to be tuned for many situations. And i see that on most larger reels they are large or extra large arbor. Is this just strictly for holding more line and backing or are there other reasons for this.

 

[DanW]

Orvis is currently running a special on the Battenkill Mid Arbor. Buy a reel and get a free spare spool. I've been using a MidArbor III with 5wt and really like the reel. The few times I've needed it the drag worked very nicely and it can be dialed back to nothing. I just picked up a Mid Arbor IV for 7/8 wt (I'm putting 8wt on it). Price is $129.00.

The main advantages of large arbor reels are a faster retrieve, a single turn of the spool brings in more line, and you get less coiling of the fly line then if it were wrapped around a smaller diameter spool.

 

[Number6]

You might want to try LLBean in Center Valley. They're closing out 2006 Lamson Velocity's for less than 1/2 price.

 

[MKern]

I bought a ECHO 4-6 from cabela's a few years ago. It is a large arbor and I love it. I use it for all my 4 and 5 wt lines. Plus, its only $70 and extra spools are $40. It has an outstanding dial drag. Matter of fact, next time I place an order to cabelas, I'm picking up an extra spool for pike and steelhead. They also make a reel for 6-8 wt line.
The only downside I have from my large arbor, is that frequently the excess line will wrap around the butt of the rod during the forward cast. I hate that.

 

[Maurice]

MKern wrote:
The only downside I have from my large arbor, is that frequently the excess line will wrap around the butt of the rod during the forward cast. I hate that.

Uhhh, what would this have to do with the reel being large arbor?

I do not own a large arbor reel, nor a mid arbor. But I cannot understand how the reel would cause this. The line exits the reel at about the same place as a normal reel. Seems to me you'd have this problem with any reel. Like, you're Rod hand and reel must be moving up and down too much.

This happens to me when I get sloppy.

Maurice

 

[MKern]

Maurice,
It happens when I have slack line in the water, and on the shooting cast the excess gets flung over the butt. It is a quick fix though.
Any tips on preventing it?

 

[Maurice]

MKern wrote:
Maurice,
It happens when I have slack line in the water, and on the shooting cast the excess gets flung over the butt. It is a quick fix though.
Any tips on preventing it?

Try holding your line hand further forward then your rod hand on the shoot. Pushing your rod hand forward farther than where the line come from(hopefully your line hand) causes you to run into the line and it tangles.

If you leave the line in the water and are facing upstream, the .line flows behind you and this cannot be prevented. The line is ALWAYS behind the rod hand on the shoot.

Also, don't throw your arm forward on the shoot. It doesn't help the load any and it only makes your arm tired.

Happens to me too.

Maurice

 

[tomgamber]

Don't let your slack line lie on or dirft past the rod side of your body or between your legs. Keep it accross you and lying or drifting on the opposite side of your body from your rod arm...did that make any sense?

Maybe Jack will draw us a picture...

 

[TimMurphy]

MKern wrote:
I bought a ECHO 4-6 from cabela's a few years ago. It is a large arbor and I love it. I use it for all my 4 and 5 wt lines. Plus, its only $70 and extra spools are $40. It has an outstanding dial drag. Matter of fact, next time I place an order to cabelas, I'm picking up an extra spool for pike and steelhead. They also make a reel for 6-8 wt line.
The only downside I have from my large arbor, is that frequently the excess line will wrap around the butt of the rod during the forward cast. I hate that.

Dear Mkern,

I'm going to venture a guess here and say that the rod you are using that reel on has an up locking reel seat that threads pretty far up until it locks your reel in place.

There is a reason why older rods had down locking reel seats and it had nothing to do with casting ability. Cork was cheaper and good cork was easier to find. It was much easier to build a nice grip.

Nowadays rod manufacturers try to save some money by using uplockers and saving the cost of having to have a longer grip.

If they really scrimp they use a reel seat that is ill fitted to the rod and way too much rod end extends past the point where the reel locks in. I'm betting this is why your line wraps around the rod butt while casting?

I have two 4 weight rods. One is a brand "X" and the other is a brand "Y". I use the same reel on both rods. On the brand "X" the when the reel is locked in there is about 3/4" of rod butt exposed. On the brand "Y" rod there is 1 1/2" of rod butt exposed when the reel is secured.

Guess which rod gets tangled the most?

Regards,
Tim Murphy

 

[MKern]

Tim,
You are exactly right. It is uplocking and the tightening screw travels all of the way up the threaded area.

 

[sandfly]

Pad,
backing off a drag works when a fish is running and taking alot of line..we have had times when we catch stingrays and had to back off all the way. As line is pulled off a reel the drag force is multiplied..any time a fish runs a great distance you should back off. Tighting down on a long running fish is a sure way to breack off.

 

[afishinado]

I'm going to venture a guess here and say that the rod you are using that reel on has an up locking reel seat that threads pretty far up until it locks your reel in place.

There is a reason why older rods had down locking reel seats and it had nothing to do with casting ability. Cork was cheaper and good cork was easier to find. It was much easier to build a nice grip.

Nowadays rod manufacturers try to save some money by using uplockers and saving the cost of having to have a longer grip.

If they really scrimp they use a reel seat that is ill fitted to the rod and way too much rod end extends past the point where the reel locks in. I'm betting this is why your line wraps around the rod butt while casting?

I have two 4 weight rods. One is a brand "X" and the other is a brand "Y". I use the same reel on both rods. On the brand "X" the when the reel is locked in there is about 3/4" of rod butt exposed. On the brand "Y" rod there is 1 1/2" of rod butt exposed when the reel is secured.

Guess which rod gets tangled the most?

Regards,
Tim Murphy [/quote]


I agree with Tim on a preference for downlocking reel seats, but I believe the reason for most rods have uplocking reel seats is not to save on cork. IMO, the reason is because rods are so much lighter now, and locking the reel in at the butt would put many rods out of balance with most reels. Besides, you can buy a single ring of premium cork for $2.00-$2.50 retail. The rod companies would buy it for less than $1.00 I would guess. On a $300 plus rod it would be inconsequential.

I’m real fussy with the balance point of the rod. I like it to balance towards the top of the grip about where my index finger would be when I grip the rod. I’ve handled a lot of other peoples rods and most don’t seem concerned with balance. IMO, a balanced rod gives you a chance for a better cast, and is less tiring. I would be interested in other opinions.

As far as the line wrapping around the butt when you shoot line, it happens when you allow your shooting line to hang in the current when the current is flowing from left to right. I try to make an effort to hold my shooting line in coils in my left hand. It shoots better and doesn’t tangle as easily. Good luck

 

[tomgamber]

I just like having my hand as close to the reel as possible. Have you ever seen those "beaver tail" grips?

Stripping my line accross my body and letting it fall on the opposite side of my legs as my rod hand keeps me from having the line catch the butt. The uplocking reel seat shouldn't matter much as I tend to get my line caught there too, but oddly less than when I use my 8wt with the big old fighting butt on it.

 

[ryguyfi]

seeing that this thread has gone many ways and now towards rods. I think I got my heart set on the 7/8 weight Cabela's SR reel, once I save up enough money for it. Waiting for my new job to get going. By the way, anyone interested in a mortgage or refinance PM me :-D. Ok all kidding a side. I also have the same problem with my line wrapping around the end of my fly rod but seems like everyone has help for it. I would actually like to know what would be a good rod to match my future reel. I would like a 9' - 9'6" graphite, once again keeping price reasonable but yet a good match to the quality of the reel. I'm excited to have the chance to catch some larger fish on a fly and hopefully won't have to wait too long to do so. Thanks again everyone you are a HUGE help!

 

[TimMurphy]

Dear ryguyfi,

Since you want to take advantage of your Cabelas gift certificates I'm going to suggest the Cabela's LST rod. They are a very nice fast action rod with a 25 year warranty. Right now they are on sale in combination with the Cabela's SLA reel. The reel alone sells for $ 169.00 and the rod alone sells for $ 180.00 for the 9 foot 8 weight 4 piece. You can get a complete set-up including a Scientific Anglers Mastery line (worth $ 59.00) and backing for $ 299.00.

http://www.shrinkthatlink.com/?bQgoxfYhPq

I'm not affiliated with Cabela's but I have cast a couple of the LST rods and they are very nice rods for the money and the combo price is a very good deal.

Regards,
Tim Murphy