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Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2006/11/24 2:46
From Pottstown, PA
Posts: 200
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Remember to use a "tack cloth" after you sand to get all the dust up. I'd sand down to about a 150 grit then wipe it with a wet cloth to raise the grain and sand again. That way you will get a really nice smooth surface to apply the finnish on. Use a "tack cloth" in between finnish coats too if you do any additional sanding. If you hit a Home Depot or Lowes you can find the Minwax stuff and see all the different stain colors on their display. I'm sure you will find one that you like.

Posted on: 2007/10/5 23:48


Re: Tying workstation
Guest_
CAMBYSES:
I'm, also, right in the middle of refinishing a wooden "lazysusan, tool, thread and etc.", holder for my tying table.
As suggested, Minwax makes a whole assortment of great wood stains. I'm using it on this turntable thing I'm finishing up, right now, in fact! Since the wood I'm using is pretty "light" in color, I wanted the grain to also show through, nicely, so I chose "Ipswich Pine" for a light colored stain.
Before I stain the wood, however, I'll sand it down......starting with 120 fine sandpaper, then 180 and last the 220 grit. The final sand down will be with a wad of "0000" steel wool. I've used this combo on some actual "furniture" I've made for our house, too and the combo of grits, work very well!
By the time I get down to the "0000" steel wool, the wood surface is every bit as smooth as glass!! After the stain dries, I apply the first coat of "Spar Urethane". I really like using this particular finish, because it not only is "water clean up", but it is an outdoor plasticized finish as well.
It "self levels", so applied correctly, there's hardly ever any brush strokes from applying it. It dries VERY fast, so you can get at least 5-6 coats of it, on, in an afternoon or evening. I wait two hours, (but it dries to the touch, in about 45 minutes!), then I sand that coat with the "0000" wool, then apply the next coat and so on, until I have about 6 coats total.
I, also, prefer to use the "foam brushes" far and above, the regular bristle type brushes. They clean up very easily, with water and of course, there's NO CHANCE of brush strokes with the foam!
The "Spar Urethane" comes in "Interior and Exterior", I always use the "exterior", though, because it's a tougher finish. Also, depending on the type finish you're after, it comes in either..."gloss" and "satin".
Lastly, when you open the can, don't be alarmed when all you see "is a can of milk"! It IS, "white" in the can, but dries to a crystal clear, high gloss, finish! (Or, a "satin" finish if that's the one you choose). Have fun!

Posted on: 2007/10/6 5:58


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2007/1/27 9:03
From North Catty
Posts: 243
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flybinder,

thank you for the elaborate walk through, it was needed on this end. I plan to have things finished up today on this and will be going to Home Depot this evening to get the final touches.

Last night I tried to start the sanding with a Dremel attachment , but that didn't go so well. I will have to some sand paper tonight.

Pics are coming soon

Bob

Posted on: 2007/10/6 9:09


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2007/1/27 9:03
From North Catty
Posts: 243
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Disaster struck last night, when one of my two cats decided to turn the bench into a jungle gym and knocked of the shelving unit in my utility room. I now pretty much have to start over, but at least I make can use the mistakes I know I made of the first design and make something more functional and aesthetically pleasing.


Work in progress again.............

Bob

Posted on: 2007/10/7 17:02


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2007/10/7 0:44
From philadelphia
Posts: 876
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i do have a dedicated tying area.the kitchen table.

Posted on: 2007/10/8 2:54


Re: Tying workstation
Guest_
CAMBYSES..(aka, "Bob"!),
Sorry to hear about the "cat and the jungle gym", but I'd personally inform that cat; "You're NOW, legal fodder for a dubbing source!!"
Also, since you are starting over, as you said, I forgot to mention that instead of using the brush on Spar Urethane, they also make some really good "spray on", clear finishes as well.
I've used them often, when ANY chance of a brush stroke would ruin the looks of a project, even if using the foam brushes,which leave no brush strokes, but CAN leave micro-sized air bubbles behind if you're not careful!
The spray on clear, plastic, finishes dry just as quickly as the brush on Spar finishes do. Of course be careful, in an enclosed area of your "over spray".............. What a shame, it would be, to have to end up with a "plastic coated mischievous cat"!?!
Good Luck! Paul

Posted on: 2007/10/8 15:33


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2007/1/27 9:03
From North Catty
Posts: 243
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I like the dubbing source... I wonder of it would work? and the spray on sounds great. I think I will start working on this again this weekend. I was so close to being done...oh well live and learn


Bob

Posted on: 2007/10/8 20:05


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2006/9/12 12:07
From Berryville Virginia
Posts: 329
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I use a roll top desk. You can close the top and lock if necessary.

Joe E

Posted on: 2007/10/10 6:57


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2007/1/27 9:03
From North Catty
Posts: 243
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I would love the room for an actual desk and I really like the roll top idea, but my apartment just wont allow for something like that right now, maybe in a few years when the fiancee gets out of law school and we get a house.

Posted on: 2007/10/10 17:40


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2006/9/10 21:53
From Greensburg, PA
Posts: 13624
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Have you look at those desk top tying stations...my step fater made me one once and I used it for years. Had dowels along hte back for thread and other spools...and holes along he one side to stick tools into. Had a large flat arm on the right side to attach my vice to. I added a larger hole to put a film canister with steel wool in to clean my bodkin and another to fit a bottle of head cement without being able to knock it over. I also added white contact paper to the bottom for better contrast. It was nice because I also had a small apartment and could lust put it wherever I needed to but had a prepared desktop to tie on. Now that I think about it one of those would save me some set up time now...If you are handy you could make one yourself.

Kind of like this:

Fly tying desk

Posted on: 2007/10/11 11:32


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2007/1/27 9:03
From North Catty
Posts: 243
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That is what I am making now... that is what my cat destroyed and I am trying to rebuild

Posted on: 2007/10/11 20:43


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2006/9/10 21:53
From Greensburg, PA
Posts: 13624
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Cool, post a pic when you are done! Based on their posts, I think some others may have also thought you meant a regular desk...I know I did.

Posted on: 2007/10/11 22:10


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2006/11/24 2:46
From Pottstown, PA
Posts: 200
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Yeah, I thought you meant something like this. This is the Cabellas desk with their storage cabinet and spool caddy. My Renzetti is mounted on one of heir stations with a Stone Fly magnifier that has eight leds surrounding the lens. Works very well for me.

Attach file:



jpg  Flytying desk.JPG (0.00 KB)


Posted on: 2007/10/12 19:18


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2006/11/24 2:46
From Pottstown, PA
Posts: 200
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Here's a beter shot of the vise and the tying station.

Attach file:



jpg  Renzetti vise.JPG (0.00 KB)


Posted on: 2007/10/12 19:21


Re: Tying workstation

Joined:
2007/1/27 9:03
From North Catty
Posts: 243
Offline
Thats awesome!! That is what I would like, but can't afford nor find a place for!!! maybe one day. Thanks for the pic it gave me a few ideas

Posted on: 2007/10/13 15:14



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