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Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2007/1/2 11:55
From Bozeman
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Concave (bottom) side up.

Not sure what the "right" way is, but that way makes sense to me. I think that's it though.

Posted on: 2009/4/6 14:55


Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2006/9/10 21:53
From Greensburg, PA
Posts: 13629
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for dries you ti the feather in at he thick end of the stem. You should have the tip in the pliers. concave pointing toward eh eye...

Posted on: 2009/4/6 14:55


Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2009/1/24 15:19
From Butler
Posts: 761
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Quote:

tomgamber wrote:
for dries you ti the feather in at he thick end of the stem. You should have the tip in the pliers. concave pointing toward eh eye...



thats they way i've been doing it --- just not gettin the hang of it yet, i guess -- i'm gonna try and practice some today

Posted on: 2009/4/6 14:57


Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2006/9/10 21:53
From Greensburg, PA
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one thing a lot of beginner will do ( I did) is tie to close to teh eye and then they don;t have enough room to tie it off properly or create a decent head....

Posted on: 2009/4/6 14:57


Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2006/9/10 21:53
From Greensburg, PA
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Posted on: 2009/4/6 14:59


Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2007/4/8 20:43
From SEPA
Posts: 11383
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Quote:

tomgamber wrote:
one thing a lot of beginner will do ( I did) is tie to close to teh eye and then they don;t have enough room to tie it off properly or create a decent head....


Read what he wrote a second time, its the single most important thing you'll read in this thread.

Quote:

tomgamber wrote:
one thing a lot of beginner will do ( I did) is tie to close to teh eye and then they don;t have enough room to tie it off properly or create a decent head....


Hell, a third time. Make sure it sinks in. Don't crowd the eye!

Posted on: 2009/4/6 15:38


Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2007/4/25 10:02
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gfen- agree with that! I have problems with putting on to much material- try less wraps maybe.

Posted on: 2009/4/6 15:52
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Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2006/10/18 15:46
From Patterson twp, Pa (Beaver Falls)
Posts: 6515
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When I tie all my flies, I start from the back and work my way up. I tie in the tail, dub or wrap the body about 2/3 up, then tie in my hackle. I strip the feather about 1/4 inch and tie that part in. It makes it easier than having all the barbules in the way. Once it's tied in then I dub the rest to about 1/8 inch from the eye. Crouding the eye was my biggest problem when I started tying. When you leave yourself room to finish the fly, it makes your flies so much easier.

I don't use hackle pliers unless I'm using a small feather. I use both hands and wrap one turn ahead of the other and use my other hand to keep the feather up against the hook. when I'm finished wrapping, I hold the feather down and put a few thread wraps over top of it then cut off the excess. I pull the hackle back with my finger and thumb and make the thread wrapped head, cement, and half hitch it a few times. It takes some time to get used to but I'm getting better every year I tie.


Keep practicing and don't give up. The hackled dry fly is popular because it does work. I have so many flies that are just horrible from when I first started tying. I caught some fish on them, but they got mangled, or just looked so bad that I took them apart and started over. you'll get better over time. Keep trying!



where ya from Ernie, I think you're in my area. Maybe one day we can get together and fish or I can help you with your ties. I'm not the best out there, but I'm sure I can help.

Posted on: 2009/4/6 16:08
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Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2006/9/11 13:33
From Lehigh Valley
Posts: 3337
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When you're an old fart, and have been tying for decades, you'll develop your own little "tricks" for tying. One of the neater ones I've found that works for tying off hackle and basically anything else is this:

Position the thread on the hook where you want to tie off the material (generally one hook eye length behind the eye). Sometimes, I'll even throw a half hitch on there so the thread doesn't move if bumped, and let the bobbin hang there.

Wrap the material (hackle, etc) up to the hanging thread, and make the last wrap in FRONT of the thread. Holding the material straight up from the hook shank, make one wrap of thread in FRONT of the material (or two if you're paranoid).

Presto - the material is secured just where you wanted, leaving exactly enough room for a head. This works perfectly - every time!

Thread control is a big part of the battle...

Posted on: 2009/4/6 16:20


Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

Joined:
2009/1/24 15:19
From Butler
Posts: 761
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tom & gfen: that was definitely my problem at first -- i was crowding the eye wayyyy to much, but i started to realize what i was doing and tried to stop. I really think my main problem is just holding the damn tip of the hackle down and wrapping the thread around it before the thread unwinds.. -- thanks for the vids tom, i am checkin them out now

ryfly: I am in Butler county and would love to hit the stream with you sometime -- doesnt have to be in butler though -- i'm graduating college this month so my schedule is gonna be pretty flexible, i plan on doing a lot of fishing this summer

Posted on: 2009/4/6 16:29
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Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2006/10/18 15:46
From Patterson twp, Pa (Beaver Falls)
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Hey Ernie, when you place your hook in the vise, try tilting the eye of the hook ever so slightly up. When my hook is pointed down, then my thread wraps towards the eye get unwrapped sometimes. Just a few degree adjustment may make the difference for you.

It's not a great way of fixing the problem, but if you croud the eye too much, take your finger nail, or your bodkin and push the materials back from the eye. The real fix, is to do it right, but if I run out of room, that's what I do.


I'm up at the Neshannock, Slippery Rock, Shenango River all the time, so maybe we can meet up there sometime. Right between us.

Posted on: 2009/4/6 16:38
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Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2009/1/24 15:19
From Butler
Posts: 761
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definitely -- thats actually great advice though - i have tended to tilt my hook up ever so slightly because i am usually doing nymphs with beadheads, and it just helps the beadhead stay stationary while im tying the lead on or whatever- so maybe i have carried that over to dry flys -- great advice -- we'll talk and figure something out!

Posted on: 2009/4/6 16:45
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Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

Joined:
2006/10/25 12:30
From York
Posts: 450
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Ernie,

not to make things more complicated, but a neat trick that I found was to add the hackle in reverse. Here's how I do it:

I tie in the hackel by the butts with the hackle extending over the hook eye. My last tie down loop is where i want the head of the fly to start. Now leave the hackle as is. Tie in the wings, then the tail and dub the body. Leave the thread at the end of the dubbing. Now you can wind the hackle back to where the dubbing ends. Tie down the hackle at this point. Wind the thread towards the eye, zigzagging through the hackle. Tie off and done. No crowding the eye. Also, most hackle is slightly larger at the base. Wrapping the hackle this way puts those longer barbs at the front of the fly instead of the middle.

Posted on: 2009/4/7 8:38
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Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

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2009/4/7 10:22
Posts: 64
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Ernie

You said that you were using your fathers 10-15 year old hackle? I would recommend investing in some more modern capes. After I got the hang of the basics of tying I bought three Silver grade Whiting capes. Years later, I still have them and they have plenty of feathers. Genetics have done wonders for fly tying capes. The feathers now are extremely long (I tie 3-4 flies out of one feather), they have stiff barbs (for flotation) and the stem is very strong so breakage isn't an issue. They are pricey (~$40 when I bought them about 4-5 years ago) but well worth it.

Another tool that helped me hackle flies was the rotary vice. I don't have a Materelli or anything fancy, just a basic rotary. That way, when I'm winding the hackle, the vice is doing all the work, I just hold the feather and viola! a perfectly hackled fly.

Don't get me wrong, I am no expert tier but those were a few things that made a difference in the quality of the flies I produced.

Just my $.02

Posted on: 2009/4/7 11:28


Re: Non-Hackle Dry Flys

Joined:
2008/7/22 10:35
From SE PA
Posts: 53
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I have had great results with an x-caddis.

http://www.westfly.com/fly-pattern-recipe/dry/xcaddis.shtml

Posted on: 2009/4/7 15:43



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