Reel Selection

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psummrnl

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As a beginner, am I correct in assuming that the quality of reel will not make a huge difference for me? I'd personally rather put my money into a good line and a decent rod rather than a reel. Would this generalization be the correct way of looking at things? To me, the reel simply holds the line. I understand their advantages in durability, weight, drag, etc in the various reel options. I'm actually considering going old school and simplistic and getting a Flueger Medalist. I'm not trying to drop a significant amount of money. Those who are seasoned, what are your thoughts?
 
psummrnl wrote:
As a beginner, am I correct in assuming that the quality of reel will not make a huge difference for me?

I'm not an expert, but I'll tell you that it doesn't make much of a difference at any level, really. Especially for trout. It holds line, it balances the rod. That's about it.

psummrnl wrote:
I'm actually considering going old school and simplistic and getting a Flueger Medalist. I'm not trying to drop a significant amount of money. Those who are seasoned, what are your thoughts?

Cue jdaddy mocking me, "omgomgomgomgomg!"

There's not a fish species alive that hasn't been taken on a Medalist. If it meets your price, asthetics, and balances then why not?

Some people even prefer them to more expensive toys.
 
Assuming you're not a trophy hunter, or going after great lakes stuff, you are largely correct.

The biggest thing to think about with the reel is how it balances the rod. A reel that is too heavy or light for the rod will throw the rod's action off. For instance, one of the reasons for the interest in Medalists has to do with the renewed interest in glass and bamboo rods. Those heavier rods don't do well with modern reels, which are made for graphite sticks. Likewise, those heavier reels may not do well with a light graphite rod.

When you set up the rod you want to buy, strip the line through the guides and let it hang, like you were ready to fish. Rest it on your pointer finger and find the balance point. Rod should balance near where you grip the rod, in an ideal world I'd have it right where my pointer finger wraps the grip. If its ahead of the grip, the reel isn't heavy enough. If its near the back of the grip, the reel is too heavy.

The ability to test stuff like this is one reason why local shops are much better than the big box stores for buying equipment like this. But you can often balance most rod without spending an arm and a leg for all kinds of extras like a silky smooth drag. Most models have several sizes for different line weights. Don't be afraid to go up or down a size as needed. The only problem is that if you use, for instance, a 2/3 wt. reel with a 5 wt line, it won't fit all of the line with an appropriate amount of backing. I just cut some off the back, I never cast a whole line anyway!
 
pcray1231 wrote:
Assuming you're not a trophy hunter, or going after great lakes stuff, you are largely correct.

Gonna argue that with you..

http://www.flyfishsteelhead.com/stories/reels.htm
The Kudos for best buys go to:
2) Pfluger Medalist 1595 1/2 RC under $50. (I have one that is responsible for over 200 alaska steelhead!

I remember once reading a thread about Pacific NW guys who still prefer the old 1400 series Medalists because its not about cranking down the drag to train stopping levels, in so much as putting a bit of resistance on the reel to allow you to better use your hand if you need to really crank it down.

I'm sure with a few more minutes of Google Fu I could find that thread.

Sandfly can probably share personal stories of things like the old Medalists on the shore taking stripers and blues.

Lee Wulff took the first sailfish on a fly with a $12 clicker reel.

Its about the user, not the reel. Of course, a good reel is going to help you maximize it, so surely its advantageous to you and the fish to go in with the best you can, but being equipment poor is no excuse to say no.
 
I didn't say anything bad about the drag on the Medalist. I said he didn't have to worry about drag if he wasn't dealing with big fish, not that the Medalist had a bad drag.

I find the Medalist to be a very heavy reel, but one with a good drag.

I sill say that my Medalist pretty much ruins the action on my graphite sticks due to weight. It's perrrrrfect for my boo. Unfortunately, my Medalist is still out of commission, and my other reels are too light for the boo. With the light reels, it feels too tip heavy, and feels like there's way too much momentum. You have to consciously adjust to stop short on both ends of the cast, and you expend more energy so your hand gets tired.

I gotta get my Medalist fixed so my boo comes back to life....
 

Doesn't matter what bargin reel it is, Cabela's, Okuma, Martin, etc... It'll work jsut fine if you use it logically.

That said, there's a praise thread for Okuma somewhere in the gear forum right now. Lots of people extolling the virtue of their low cost Okumas, which are going to balance graphite better.

LL Bean's Streamlight reels, a [d]plastic[/d] space age graphite polymer resin, are currently on clearance prices from LL Bean.

They're light, and lifetime. Destroy it, get a new one or whatever replaces it when you eat it up on something.
 
Good comments above, and I'd to pcray's remarks by pointing out that there is a pretty big difference in the amount of loaded reel weight (the reel with a fly line on it) that balances even similar fly rods. For example, my echo carbon 7'6" 3 weight balances near the end of the cork grip with a loaded reel weighing 3.9 ounces, while my 7' st croix imperial 3 weight takes only 2.8 ounces to balance near the end of its cork grip.

If I put the 2.8 oz loaded reel from the st croix on the echo rod, it feels tip-heavy; If I put the 3.9 oz loaded reel from the echo on the st croix, the tip wants to come up...

Dick's sporting goods sells narrow lead tape that you can wrap around a fly reel's spool to add weight.

So, yes, you probably are better off with an inexpensive reel that balances the rod than an expensive reel that doesn't ...

I have a recent medalist that weighs about 4.5 oz, so with a line on it it would weight about 5 oz. Rods in the same length and line weight can want different amounts of loaded reel weight to balance, but the medalist as a guess might balance well with a sort of 8' 4-5 w fly rod...
 

I swear I don't want to make this all about the handsome and powerful Medalist, but you can actually remove the front plate and pack shot in, if required.

Also a tip for a too heavy reel can be to increase arbour size without using backing by simply putting cork rings, like from reel seats, into it. Kinda pointless if you're buying a reel, but not if you want to use some found awesomenisity on your rods.
 
Should have mentioned that the lead tape at dicks sporting goods is for tennis rackets and in that section
 
gfen wrote:


Lee Wulff took the first sailfish on a fly with a $12 clicker reel.

Was he on a boat? If he was then that says more about the captains ability then the reel. With the right captain at the helm you could land a 15' great white on a batman zebco.
 
psummrnl,
Yes, for the most part, you're correct. A reel is not that big of a deal (and I don't think fly line is either). I'm assuming you're mainly thinking about freshwater fishing in PA(?). If, on the other hand, you're thinking about saltwater or some other specialty applications (like big salmon in Ontario tribs or something)....then your fly reel and drag become significant. For trout fishing in PA, you don't need anything fancy.

By all means consider a Medalist. As others here have pointed out, it's a heavy reel (designed in an earlier era when rods were heavy) but is bulletproof, inexpensive, and has a classic cachet that the fancy, expensive new reels can't hope to match.
They're a bargain and will never let you down. I have an old beater Medalist that I use from time to time. I think it's older than I am. :)
 
gfen wrote:
Lee Wulff took the first sailfish on a fly with a $12 clicker reel.

Only 'cause they didn't have Tibor Gulfstreams back then. :cool:
 
I dig the classic blue collar feel of the medalist. Not to mention, I do a significant amount of hiking to remote areas to fish so I prefer something with significant durability.
 
Heritage-Angler wrote:
Only 'cause they didn't have Tibor Gulfstreams back then. :cool:

The CL reels ain't nuttin but a fancy Medalist, anyways.

consta.jpg


But, I don't think he would've. I think he picked the cheap clicker for a reason, considering the Medalist with a valid drag did exist at the time, or any number high quality Hardy reels, etc.

Remember, part of the accomplishment was picking a glass rod off a sporting goods shop shelf because it was available, and he picked that one not because it was high end, but because he liked the colour.

 

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the constalube drag system is what tibor trout and small game fish reels (the cl series) have in them.
heavy duty reels - the everglades (8-9wt), riptide (9-10wt), gulfstream (11-12wt) and pacific (12wt-15wt) don't have it, and never did.
 
If i was going to buy a new reel today i would purchase one from Allen Fly Fishing , the prices are very good and from listening to others the reels are nice and made here by one of the sponsers of this site.
 
osprey wrote:
made here by one of the sponsers of this site.

They are imported here by a sponsor of this site. And ya, they are pretty good reels for the money.
 
I agree that for most Pennsylvania fishing you don't need an expensive reel when your are first starting out. Buy the best reel you can afford. My first reel was a Pflueger 1492 1/2 which is still in service 35 years later. You can start stalking, yard sales, swap meets, eBay, and Craig's list for a better used reel as you progress.

However, if you are going to fish the Upper Delaware, Madison River or any big water out West, beg, borrow or steal a reel with a really great drag.

Welcome to the addiction of fly fishing, talking about fly fishing and collecting fly fishing equipment.

Salmo
 
salmo wrote:
However, if you are going to fish the Upper Delaware, Madison River or any big water out West, beg, borrow or steal a reel with a really great drag.

5176483776_b65c9515fb.jpg


I'd say its upgradable with a little work.
 
You didn't say what waters you fish, what level you think you fish at and what fish you target. I love opinions when they don't gather the basic info.

My first reel was a Red Dot by Redington. $35. Did the job then I got a Lamson Konic and while I've bumped up a few rods the reel still works for me. When it doesn't I'll bump it up again. I have access to other reels.

But I started out.... then I...That's the info where someone can clue you into something you don't need to pay more or they have a great deal for.

More info will get you more.

I got a great..No awesome deal on my last rod!

Thanks JDaddy! Can't wait to reintroduce my last years purchase to Spring.
 
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